Quote:
Originally Posted by goat
Update for the rear install? Great writeup. I have been really tempted to purchase these bars.
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Hi, Tim.
I didn't post a writeup for the rear install because it is very straightforward and only differs from replacement of the stock sway bar in that
- The OE u-brackets are replaced with the Eibach black anodized billet units pictured in my earlier post.
- You can select which of the three adjustment holes in the sway bar to connect the OE drop links into.
I'll try to get under the car and take a few photos of the installed sway bar some time in the next few days.
Elevate both sides of the car a few inches and set jack stands under the torsion bar covers. Just enough to reach under; all the hardware is pretty close.
The only part that was a bit tricky was getting the u-bracket holes to line up with the holes in the chassis. It was easy to get the first bolt in each u-bracket, but the other slot in the u-bracket always seemed to be too far back to to get a bolt through it and into the chassis hole. (This probably would not be an issue if the car is on a lift.)
What I ended up doing was leaving the first bolt loose, lowering the car a bit at a time until the holes lined up. (As the car lowers, the brackets are pushed forward due to the changing geometry. Of course, I reset the jack stands before wrenching on anything.)
As in the case of the front install, I waited until all fasteners were in place before tightening all of them. No torque specs were provided. If anyone knows the proper torque for the drop link bolts or the u-bracket bolts, I would appreciate the info.
Using a floor jack, a jack pad and jack stands, the job took about an hour. If the car was on a lift, it would have been about 20 minutes. Eibach estimates that F&R sway bars could be installed in an hour with the car on a lift.
If you decide to buy the Eibach bars, call or email Ryan H. (His contact info is earlier in this thread.) He'll make sure you get the right kit.