Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax
If I understand these fittings correctly, there's no need to restrain that 17mm, just turn the 19mm and either it comes off, likely or the entire assembly with the 2 nuts and banjo do.
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Well I wish it had been that easy. On mine the entire banjo assembly started to turn in the pump body. So at this point the hose won't let you turn very far so you have to spin the pump off of the banjo assembly, but you cannot do that because the threaded studs for the electrical connections on the pump stick up too high and hit the steel crimp on the hose.
If I had known for sure that the pump was bad, I could have cut them off, but in hopes of saving the pump I simply used needle nose vice grips at an angle to secure the thin 17mm nut.
Perhaps the diagram below will be helpful as this is a fancy banjo bolt that incorporates a check valve.
Item 37 is the banjo bolt/check valve. It is screwed into the pump housing with the thin, integral 17mm nut.
The fuel line banjo (part of item 12) slides over the item 37 banjo bolt and is secured by item 22, the 19mm cap nut.
The problem arises because the thin 17 mm nut is nestled down in between the two electrical terminal posts making wrench access difficult if not impossible. The pump cannot be spun off the banjo by rotating the pump because the terminals on the pump stick up too high and hit the steel crimping on the hose.
When I got the pump off I verified that my flare nut wrench would not clear the terminals either. If you have a set of very thin wall flare nut wrenches then that might work, if you can work the wrench past the crimp and the banjo. Anyway I just wanted to give others a heads up, so they can be somewhat better prepared for this challenge when swapping out their fuel pump.
