2003 R1100S BCR - Slipping under acceleration

[Jozef Schumann]

You've isolated the root cause - good job!

Only you know the circumstances involved in delivering your machine to the tech.

Too many variables for comfort. There's obviously a profound difference in gently cruising for two hours across the flat lands of Kansas with minimal throttle input vs negotiating mountain passes in the Rockies. Though the slipping is minor now, it may very well develop into a no-go situation quickly, in my opinion.

Not knowing your machines service history, it is conceivable the clutch was serviced at some point, it is also possible a Siebenrock oil resistant disc was fitted which may explain your clutch slip symptoms. All speculative. Once it is in your techs hands, you'll know more.

I reserve commenting on the available slave cylinders as I personally have no experience with them. I can only refer to my '02 which has now accumulated well over 165,000 miles - original hydraulics everywhere.

Every one of my machines autos/bikes is fanatically maintained by-the-book. No less nor longer than the service intervals suggested by the engineers and manufacturers who produced them.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic which is nothing but a glam term for absorbing moisture from the environment. The cyclical action of plungers acting on pistons, rubber sealed, immerssed in brake fluid is a prime condition for fluid contaminated by moisture - and particularly if, the exacting owners manual service intervals and procedures are brushed off - the resulting moisture induced water/brake fluid brew results in an toxic to rubber seals mess. Leaks are guaranteed. Even the slightest contamination leads to spongy, even dangerously compromised lever/pedal feel and a significantly reduced fluid boil point. Many are amazed at the difference of a full fluid flush.

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I do highly recommend an extended hub clutch disc which can be sourced from several suppliers.

Here's a photo of the different disc hubs available for illustrative purposes. The below and center below that, being my own Superscheibe by S -chumann P -erformance P -roducts - (no longer being offered) flanked by the OEM Sachs on the left and Siebenrock (oil resistant) to the right.





Also, while your tech is in there, have him inspect, not only the clutch hub splines, but the transmission input shaft for signs of spline scalloping as is depicted in the midway point area, or (narrowing of the splines) of the shaft in the photo below.



If signs of scalloping are present, it indicates your machine was afflicted with - or - a failure was pending and imminent. However - the extended spline clutch disc engages a higher percentage of available input shaft allowing machines with this type of wear/damage and propensity for failure a greatly extended life cycle. I've replaced several input shafts and it's a time consuming, very costly procedure. Not for me, but for many without the required resources, tools, abiity, time, it is more cost effective to purchase a good used replacement transmission.

Again, great job on the diagnosis.

J.S.

[JimMoore]

I'd p[ut in the new slave and ride it to the mechanic. Take it easy on the throttle.

As a note, when the slave fails it's because the bearing cage comes apart. When that happens the clutch will start engaging at a different point, closer to the handlebar. If you ever feel that happening you know you need a new slave cylinder. If you do it immediately you can keep your clutch from becoming contaminated.

[HeartofDavid]

Thanks everyone! You’ve all been extremely helpful. I think I will just get the clutch kit from
Beamer boneyard.

Soo.. I need to clean out the hole where the old one came out. Best way to do that??

Also.. I assume I need to drain out the liquid from the clutch reservoir and make sure there is no contamination in that.

And third.. I assume I will need to bleed the clutch hydraulics once the new one is back on.

I have bled brakes but I am not sure how to do this job. I don’t have a lot of gear/bleeding tools. Not that I am against getting a bleeder.

I tried to find videos on how but I don’t
Really see anything.

Thanks again everyone. You are all amazing and so supportive.

[HeartofDavid]

Originally Posted by JimMoore

I'd p[ut in the new slave and ride it to the mechanic. Take it easy on the throttle.

As a note, when the slave fails it's because the bearing cage comes apart. When that happens the clutch will start engaging at a different point, closer to the handlebar. If you ever feel that happening you know you need a new slave cylinder. If you do it immediately you can keep your clutch from becoming contaminated.

Yeah, the weird thing is that the clutch seemed to work pretty normal. I had a 2004 r1100s a few years ago and I don’t find it very different from that. It only slipped a couple of time on me when I “gunned” it. So it may not have done a lot of damage.

[njsax]

I wouldn't ride it to the two-hour-away-mechanic. You'd still have to get back home. I'd rent a uhaul motorcycle trailer and carry it there. They're not that expensive. I rented one for 5 days last year to go fetch a bike I bought in eastern Kentucky. It only cost me $160. For you, it'd only require a few hour's, day rental. If you get stranded during that 2-hour ride, it'll cost you a lot more than a trailer rental.

[908/930]

He did just ride it 1500km to get it home, yes you could have a problem but it is as likely to be something not related to the clutch. But to replace a clutch does take some time. Clean out the pocket where the slave cyl fits with paper towels, there is a main shaft seal in there so I would avoid strong solvents, keep in mind brake fluid is caustic and will break down paint. Once you remove the line from the cylinder the system should bleed out, could flush some new fluid through prior to reattaching.

[JimMoore]

Originally Posted by HeartofDavid

Yeah, the weird thing is that the clutch seemed to work pretty normal. I had a 2004 r1100s a few years ago and I don’t find it very different from that. It only slipped a couple of time on me when I “gunned” it. So it may not have done a lot of damage.

It's a subtle difference. You'd have to be riding the bike a lot to notice. Your slave was probably already bad when you got the bike.

[HeartofDavid]

Ok.. I got the hole cleaned up the best I could. Installed the new cylinder. Bled the clutch the best I could.. had to just use a tiny Allan key and stick in in the bleeder hole where the bearing is and my wife pulled the clutch. It has pressure so that’s good.

However.. went to get the exhaust back on and I’m having trouble knowing how to slide the exhaust back on the pins under the seat. I did it.. but the rubber gaskets were not on and sticking out quite far.. so I pulled it off.

Anyone know how to make the penis fit into the vagina with the huge cock rings on? Do I need to lube them? 🤪

[wswartzwel]

lube. the normal method

[wswartzwel]

I use this stuff

[HeartofDavid]

Nothing like some silicone lube. thanks guys. Do you guys put the rings in the holes first then slide the exhaust into them?

[Swamper]

Trailer the bike to the mechanic.

[908/930]

New front brake lines would be a good idea, if they have not been changed.

[HeartofDavid]

Originally Posted by 908/930

New front brake lines would be a good idea, if they have not been changed.

I have braided brake lines ready to go... Just working on one issue at a time. ha ha.

[flatbutt]

FWIW some guys drilled a weep hole in the slave alcove to provide drainage when it lets go.

[HeartofDavid]

Just figured I'd update everyone. I got the new slave cylinder in and it seems to be working good. I have taken the bike out for 3 rides now and haven't had any slip yet. I haven't completed "gunned" it yet hard but have passed a few times with no issues.

I do have one weird thing happening. The clutch reservoir does seem to have a bit of a slight leak once I've been riding a bit. When we were bleeding the clutch I had to do it by just pushing the ball back with a hex key. When my wife would pull it every once in a while it was like it would want to spurt. I am wondering if there is air in the line still. When the air puts pressure in the reservoir maybe it is wanting to push fluid out?

I bought a speed bleeder today so I will do a good bleed on it when I get that. I may even get a reverse bleeder.

I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me with all of this.

Now on to the cam chain tensioner, throttle body sync and valve adjustment when I get the tools (also ordered today). ha ha It has some surging so I remember last time that seemed to fix it.