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Instigator
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 70
I made advrider forum the main place for this product. It is available for purchase now

Old 04-13-2014, 07:40 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #81 (permalink)
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motoyoyo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,263
I just noticed this thread. Great work cele0001. Thanks for doing this and being able to offer it at a good price. I had come to the same conclusion that this was the best possible way to address the clutch spline wear situation on the six speed transmissions.

I had drawn up a similar design a few years ago but never got motivated to go ahead with it. The clutch assembly that was being offered at AdvRider was just too expensive and this kit is just what I was hoping to see. For those of us that don't mind grinding and pounding...this is the way to go. Good job. I'll see you over at AdvRider and order a kit. Thanks!

BTW, here is the link to the thread at AdvRider Clutch Hub Spacer
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Scott

'98 R1100S - Triple Clamps, 10mm Shortened Telelever
2013 KTM 990 SMT, 2008 KTM 990 SDR
Old 04-14-2014, 11:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #82 (permalink)
Santa Clarita, Ca.
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 222
Hey Cele - I just recently did the same thing on my 99 R1100s. The bike has 140k on it. At first I was going to put a spacer between the flywheel and engine but that would have meant adapting the starter gear as well as the clutch rod. Instead I decided to do the shim on the plate. Before I took everything apart I took my starter off and measured 7mm of radial play in the disc.

I drew up a 6mm "shim" design (looks a lot like yours) and had a local machine shop produce it for me. I bolted it back together (aircraft hdwe) and did a small tig weld on each nut and bolt to keep the nuts and bolts from coming undone since I couldn't find anybody local who could re-rivet it for me. The important thing to note here is that my trans shaft was probably about 1/2 way through its life to failure. Since the bike has so many miles on it I just bolted it all back together to see what happens. The extra 6mm made a HUGE difference on the lock up on the spline even with mine as worn as it was. After I got the bike back together I again checked the clutch play before I put the starter back on. I saw less than 1mm which is huge when you consider my splines were on their way out. So far I've put about 10k on the bike and I've continued to check the clutch play and it hasn't radically changed; still within 1mm.

My experience says this is the right thing to do. If it worked on my bike it should work on anything that has 1/2 wear or less. Oh, and I also didn't do this with a new plate. Mine measured 5.5mm and the splines were also worn on the plate. My intent was to test this with a worse case scenario to see if would even work before I spent money on a new clutch assembly and shaft. So far it has. I'll keep riding until I decide I want to take the time to replace the shaft. At that point I'll do this right and put a whole new clutch assembly in including the 6mm spacer.
Old 04-15-2014, 09:47 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #83 (permalink)
Instigator
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 70
I also think that it would work even if the shaft is worn. I think new clutch plate would have been better. You want to minimize play as much as possible.

Old 04-18-2014, 08:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #84 (permalink)
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