Proper Sag Amount [long winded]

[wiggledbits]

Just got a set of Ohlins on my 11S and yes they are worth it if you have the $ to spend. A world of difference on the short and slow-ish ride I took due to snow spots and gravel on the road.

I did a search on sag and got at least 11 pages of threads to comb through. I made through the first 4 and 1/2 pages of threads all of which talked about the importance of setting the sag but none stating measured amounts.

If my memory is right I seem to remember it being said by those that would know that about 1/3 of total travel at ride height is correct. If my info on travel is correct at 99mm front and 130mm rear translates into 33mm and 43 respectively. I don't remember what was said about free sag amounts.

The Ohlins manual calls for;
free at F=20 - 30mm and R=5 - 15mm
ride at F=30 - 40mm and R=25 - 35mm

What are the correct sag numbers?
Is total travel on a 04 R1100S 99mm front and 130mm rear?

I am at fully loaded sag of f=45 and R=35 The springs are rated for 165-185# according to Ohlins I and a little above 190 fully dressed for winter riding but I now have the motivation to lose that 10-15# I've needed to get rid of.

[roger albert]

There are tons of threads stating measured amounts. Those Öhlins numbers above are fine -- very good actually. Just use them, ideally right in the middle of the range. Your current sag number are obviously a bit high, but one can't say much w/o knowing your free/static numbers too.

[wiggledbits]

Thanks Roger,
I can get it in the Ohlins sheet numbers mid range. The compression and rebound damping felt like a good starting point too.

[roger albert]

They usually are. I like a lot of other shocks, but Ohlins does a much better job than most with their published numbers. Like others (though less frequently) they might somehow (a mystery to me how) sell it with a spring that won't allow you to get those numbers, but, the numbers themselves are plenty good. Let us know your free numbers, but if you can get all of them (front and rear, static and laden) very close the middle, you'll have a very good setup. if you have to add a lot of preload to get those numbers, expect to have to firm up the rebound a bit too. Then, a bit of compression is automatically a good idea too.

[jgrm1]

Originally Posted by roger albert

There are tons of threads stating measured amounts. Those Öhlins numbers above are fine -- very good actually. Just use them, ideally right in the middle of the range. Your current sag number are obviously a bit high, but one can't say much w/o knowing your free/static numbers too.

Roger,

Stupid question, but do Ohlins' sag targets apply to other makes shocks? Today, I assumed they did and used their 25 - 35mm rear sag target range to set the preload on my Ducati's Sachs rear shock.

Thanks,
Jeff

[roger albert]

Yes, totally applicable. Note, that's assuming typical modern travels (5" give or take)

[wiggledbits]

Static Front is 25mm Rear is 22mm
Laden Front is 35mm Rear is 35mm
So the front is in the middle and rear is at the upper limit. I did compensate the height with 4 or 5 mm in shock height. Now I feel the bike is too high in the rear so back to the longer torque arm.
I'm at the max on pre-load on the rear so I will have to lose that 15 pounds. I tried clicking up the rebound and compression 2 clicks but haven't had the weather to do enough back-road miles to get a feel for the setup yet.

Is it reasonable to think that these shaft drives and the rather broad power band have less squat than a chained sport bike?

Oh thanks again. I looked at my subscribed threads and sure enough there was a recent one that talked these numbers. I do appreciate your patience and shared knowledge on this forum.

[LeftCoast Peter]

I wish Roger lived near me.

[roger albert]

@WB: Front looks pretty good.

On the rear, are you saying you're at 22 static and 35 laden with preload maxed out?
Are you sure of those measurements. Each of those numbers alone, and doubly so together, indicate too little preload and height at the back. Is the HPA really moving the rear up and down (they CAN bleed down and have reduced, or even NO, effect)

[wiggledbits]

Roger,
I see what you asking about the rear with too much sag even at free. I'll check again with the knob turned all the way one and the other way and measure. I believe It was all the way CW but I know it was the same on both readings. Part of the problem my be I had only my GF to do the measuring while I was holding or sitting. I know she tried but she could only point to the line on the tape.

[Meeni]

Kind of related. I don't have Olhins, but I see and feel the following. Messing with knobs got me there, which was much better than the original drunk snake behavior.

* front end is dodgy. Its willing to understeer at the entrance of curves, countersteering gives a very clear "I'm about to leave you" feeling. Feels ok at exit and during curve, even on bumps.
* wear pattern is unusual: front got worn twice as fast as rear, center thread is worn, middle thread is flat with severe cupping, exterior is unused with large chichen strips (that's kinda related to point no 1).
* rear has a better wear pattern, exterior and middle thread show a staircase, the leading edge of the pattern is raised, the trailing edge is rounded.

I tried to increase the rear preload to get the sag as recommanded, but that got the dodgy front end so much worst that I stepped back. What do you experts think of that ?

[roger albert]

@Meeni: I think that at some point, the front end was ran severely underinflated. Possibly ridden on straight roads too much. Possibly a bad shock. Likelihood roughly in that order.

@WB, it's easy to be a few mm off even with practice. For an untrained helper, a lot more.
The bikes with the poorest measurements are my own, even for me. (though I have one each shop and track helper who do a pretty good job)

[Meeni]

Actually, my front wheel was out of truth, which was the cause for all the bad things I have been feeling this last year. The dent provoked the wheel to float above ground most of the time, which indeed was also causing uneven deposit of pad material on the brakes (resulting in brake shuddering at low speed).

I got the wheel trued, and the rotors checked. The bike feels a lot better now, but I have messed up so much with the suspension that I don't know where to start fresh. I think I made the bike rear low, as it greatly reduced the front load and therefore the disruption caused by the bent wheel.

What are the stock settings for sag, rebound etc on the BCR style showa shocks ? Any advices on correct settings for a 240lb rider ?