Drive shaft seized...

[Guest24]

Thanks, Joe. It was just a passing thought.

[wswartzwel]

Originally Posted by shaunlav

Hi all,

Took my bike (2001 BMW R1100S non-ABS) in for the 60,000 Km service, and to make a long story short, the para-lever bearings needed replacing and my drive shaft was apparently seized in the middle.

Thankfully they were able to remove the drive shaft, pull it apart, clean it up, lube it, and re-install it. Everything else looked good... (heading on a 6500 km ride in June).

My question is, is the drive shaft being seized a common thing or has any one else ever encountered it? I googled it and didn't find much.

The mechanic said it "looked like" someone had clear coated the splines and this caused the splines to basically glue themselves together.

Any feedback appreciated!

Shaun
2001 BMW R1100S
Georgetown ON Canada Eh!

Originally Posted by Bob Hancock

If memory serves, back when changing out paralever bearings was all the rage (I did it), 30,000+ miles was about when it was happening. Bill Swartzwelder has experience wrenching this end of the R11S.....maybe he can chime in.

The splines on the drive shaft have a plastic like coating. It is both a cushion and a lubricant. After many miles of use they can stick a bit from wear.. Usually some silicone based grease in the course of normal maintenance, will have them good to go.

[BikerMiker]

Originally Posted by bradzdotcom

that whole thing makes about as much sense as the way they package doritos in japan.
(i still haven't figured this one out, and finally decided it was better not to try):


i believe "find a new mechanic" would be the next good move.

or just "find a mechanic", since i'm not sure your guy really is one.

This Doritos bag is too funny. After passing it around work somebody found this.

Tony Burkhart: Tights-kun Doritos

Good times.......

[bikerfish1100]

Originally Posted by Nail24

Thanks, Joe. It was just a passing thought.

Bubba, you should let that one just keep on passing thru.

[jduke]

Is there where "brain fart" came from?

[sgoodwin]

Tony Burkhart: Tights-kun Doritos

That's even weirder than I imagined!

[adrianw]

Hi,

I have been slowly taking my donor bike to bits and I now have an issue in that the drive shaft will not part company from the output shaft of the gear box.

It still has the universal joint from the rear hub attached as well as it is showing little sign of wanting to come apart either.

In the factory book it suggets a little prying and it should slip off - in this case no amount of prying, propane heat or penetrating oil or shock and unlock spray has made it move at all.

I have another re-built gear box so plan B is to take the entire gear box and the chemically bonded shaft drive off and place on the shelf.

Before I do Plan B - anyone got any tips for getting the drive shaft to release the output spline of the box?

Or for that matter to let go of the universal joint from the rear hub?

Looking at the amount rust around the universal joint, the best guess if that the snap ring is a chemical soup bonding the splines hence the not moving.

Cheers

Adrian

[adrianw]

Yes like the above.

Please excuse my garage. It doubled in size during this project and I need to finish this one first before I get the rest of the garage sorted.

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by adrianw

Hi,



I have another re-built gear box so plan B is to take the entire gear box and the chemically bonded shaft drive off and place on the shelf.

Cheers

Adrian

Probably your best bet for now so that you may move on with the rest of the project. Also, it may be easier to work on when separated from the engine.

[908/930]

There is a snap ring (spring ring) in there, I think it is towards the inside of the hub, any chance there is rust behind it? Is there any movement between the hub and shaft?

[Jozef Schumann]

Originally Posted by adrianw

Hi,

I have been slowly taking my donor bike to bits and I now have an issue in that the drive shaft will not part company from the output shaft of the gear box.

It still has the universal joint from the rear hub attached as well as it is showing little sign of wanting to come apart either.

In the factory book it suggets a little prying and it should slip off - in this case no amount of prying, propane heat or penetrating oil or shock and unlock spray has made it move at all.

I have another re-built gear box so plan B is to take the entire gear box and the chemically bonded shaft drive off and place on the shelf.

Before I do Plan B - anyone got any tips for getting the drive shaft to release the output spline of the box?

Or for that matter to let go of the universal joint from the rear hub?

Looking at the amount rust around the universal joint, the best guess if that the snap ring is a chemical soup bonding the splines hence the not moving.

Cheers

Adrian

Hello Adrian.
Shame you're battling with this. I understand your frustration. I have now performed several clutch/transmission and complete powertrain replacements, hopefully I can offer some helpful insight.

As you are already aware. The joint is secured by an I.D. circlip which resides in its groove as shown by the red arrow here:



Personally, I have only required an angled pry bar situated at the joint to trans union. Not one who takes kindly to incompetent hackery, and being as anally retentive as an OCD afflicted sod can be, I use extreme care in prying the components free leaving no physical sign of any tooling. If it's still a no joy endeavour. I employ this which can obviously be hooked in any direction as required. I cannot think of any conceivable situation in which heat would be beneficial here. If the boot seal integrity was somehow compromised over the years with the machine in a static state for a period of time - sure, rust may be an issue - still, with a suitable *penetrant coupled with tensile persuasion it should disengage.

*Over the decades I have found one can address rust as well as rust jeopardized joints using an acetone/ATF solution. Acetone is easily sourced as it is simply nail polish remover, so chances are better than good your lady already has some. I use a 60/40% ratio favouring the ATF. This concoction has proven superior to OTC penetrants. One could easily substitute any vegetable oil as well though I prefer the ATF - after warm up, any residual overapplication splattered on nearby hot surfaces wont result in your machine reeking of fried chips.

Another tip is to cycle to and fro (front to rear) several times assuring both sides of the circlip retaining groove are being jarred.





I always find a helping hand beneficial though not necessary if, again.. very careful not to Schwarzenegger through the procedure.

Hope this helps and good luck.

J.S.

[adrianw]

Hi

Thanks for the tips. I had been pondering a raid into the partners tool box.

I have some ATF from about 20yrs ago bought for an e32.

It is my best guess that the bike may have spent 10years outside not moving. Hence the 6000 miles.

The black plastics have whitened where my 160k 99 R11 which lives in a garage are still black.

There is no movement at all from the UJ. We tried a pair of tire irons 2 people applying pressure the third person holding the bike steady.

I will keep up the chemical attack for another week then if it will not budge then the whole box is coming off.

Cheers

Adrian

On the plus side every other nut and bolt came of with ease.

[adrianw]

Thats a nifty looking drift tool J.S. may have tk make one.

[JimMoore]

Looks like the rear u-joint is off the hub. Are you saying it's frozen to the driveshaft?

If you can get the rear u-joint off, I'd try hitting the back of the fat part of the driveshaft with a hammer, just to break it loose. Not the end of the driveshaft itself. The fat part and the skinny part of the driveshaft are held together by glued rubber. You don't want to disturb that connection. Line up a drift against the back for the fat part, and "WHACK!" Then try to pry it off with something big. A crowbar.

Worst comes to worst, i have a spare R1100S driveshaft in the garage. It has about 17K miles on it. You can have it for $150+shipping.

[908/930]

I just removed mine, pry bar between the u joint and the output shaft, fortunately not stuck. I don't think a slide hammer is a great idea for the bearings in the u joint or the trans, gentle leverage and some light hammering and lots of penetrating oil.