Quote:
Originally Posted by adrianw
Hi,
I have been slowly taking my donor bike to bits and I now have an issue in that the drive shaft will not part company from the output shaft of the gear box.
It still has the universal joint from the rear hub attached as well as it is showing little sign of wanting to come apart either.
In the factory book it suggets a little prying and it should slip off - in this case no amount of prying, propane heat or penetrating oil or shock and unlock spray has made it move at all.
I have another re-built gear box so plan B is to take the entire gear box and the chemically bonded shaft drive off and place on the shelf.
Before I do Plan B - anyone got any tips for getting the drive shaft to release the output spline of the box?
Or for that matter to let go of the universal joint from the rear hub?
Looking at the amount rust around the universal joint, the best guess if that the snap ring is a chemical soup bonding the splines hence the not moving.
Cheers
Adrian
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Hello Adrian.
Shame you're battling with this. I understand your frustration. I have now performed several clutch/transmission and complete powertrain replacements, hopefully I can offer some helpful insight.
As you are already aware. The joint is secured by an I.D. circlip which resides in its groove as shown by the red arrow here:
Personally, I have only required an angled pry bar situated at the joint to trans union. Not one who takes kindly to incompetent hackery, and being as anally retentive as an OCD afflicted sod can be, I use
extreme care in prying the components free leaving
no physical sign of any
tooling. If it's still a no joy endeavour. I employ this which can obviously be
hooked in any direction as required. I cannot think of any conceivable situation in which heat would be beneficial here. If the boot seal integrity was somehow compromised over the years with the machine in a static state for a period of time - sure, rust may be an issue - still, with a suitable *penetrant coupled with
tensile persuasion it
should disengage.
*Over the decades I have found one can address rust as well as rust jeopardized joints using an acetone/ATF solution. Acetone is easily sourced as it is simply nail polish remover, so chances are better than good your lady already has some. I use a 60/40% ratio favouring the ATF. This concoction has proven superior to OTC penetrants. One could easily substitute any vegetable oil as well though I prefer the ATF - after warm up, any residual overapplication splattered on nearby hot surfaces wont result in your machine reeking of fried chips.
Another tip is to cycle to and fro (front to rear) several times assuring both sides of the circlip retaining groove are being jarred.
I always find a helping hand beneficial though not necessary if, again.. very careful not to Schwarzenegger through the procedure.
Hope this helps and good luck.
J.S.