Replace waterpump at 40K or wait for noises?

[ronster]

Originally Posted by WhipE350

I changed mine at 55k as preventative maintenance and the one i took out was like new. I only noticed two things, the original one would spin easier and made a slight sound. I was going to sell it since it was in perfect condition, however decided to keep in case I get another Boxster.
It is really interesting how some of these cars go well over a 100k without anything and others have issues. I decided to change mine because I didn't want to be driving in 100 degree weather 150 miles from home and it to go on me. Here are the pictures:

Mine was the original (still had the coating on it) and also looked new but the shaft had a very slight bit of play and that was enough to cause the squeal, it doesn't take much under the pressure of the serpentine belt to cause these to start making noise.
In 1990 I drove a 1966 Landrover from San Diego to Miami and just after I crossed the Florida state line I heard a noise and saw green fluid coming from the hood. I shut it off and coasted to the berm. When I opened the hood the fan was about an eighth of an inch from the radiator. The WP bearing had come completely off the shaft and the belt had pulled the shaft out of the housing. I got it shut off just before the fan and pulley destroyed the radiator. A local garage got it fixed the next morning and I was off to Miami. That was the worst case WP failure scenario I had seen.

[Doug&Julie]

Originally Posted by gsmiller

Yep, high pitched squeal. When mine failed, I could see puffs of steam coming from the passenger side engine vent because it was throwing small amounts of coolant out from the bearing area onto the belt and hot engine. Oh and when I got home and coolant poured out all over my driveway from the area when I removed the coolant cap (realeasing the vacuum), it was a pretty dead giveaway.

Thanks for the good info. Sounds like this is something that gives pretty good warning and, as long as I shut down at first sign, I can avoid total engine destruction.

Sorry to hear about your stress...it's never fun when cars have failures!

[The Radium King]

here's some dialogue on water pump failure from another forum ...

2001 Boxster S Cracked Cylinder - 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster Owners and Others

[very~worn~944]

Doug&julie, I would agree with the results posted in the thread Radium mentioned. If you think your water pump is at all noisy, I would address it.
One way the water pump can finally fail has been mentioned here, slowly leaking noticeable coolant. Usually this means the bearing cannot hold the shaft in position and the seal gets ruined. This also means the pulley AND the impeller shift, resulting in the pulley rubbing outside and the impeller wearing on the block. Left untreated at best the impeller scuffs some metal off the block- I've seen considerable amount of metal missing from the block where it forms to the impeller, to the point where the new waterpump impeller will not function as well. The bearing can overheat and the shaft can break off with the pulley- potentially mangling other pulleys, definately immobilizing you. Worse yet, the impeller blades can shatter leaving debris in the coolant... Which, as pointed out by Jake Raby, clog passage ways in the cylinder heads causing cracking long after your water pump was replaced and you're back on the road.

To the OP, I've never heard of a water pump replaced in a routine schedule...but routine checking of the pump for signs of failure is advised. A mechanics stethoscope on the water pump let's you hear it's condition. It should be a loud whooshing, but not grumbling. Visually, wet or waxy residue dripping off the pump is an early sign of failure. With the belt off you should not be able to wiggle the pulley laterally at all. If it shows no signs, even with the potential catastrophe I wouldn't change it yet.

[Doug&Julie]

Not that I'm giving into fear, but since my car is due it's 40k service and is five years old, I'm going to go ahead and have it replaced at the 40k. I found a Porsche pump for "only" $230. May look into replacing it myself (I've got Wayne's great Boxster book! ), but even if I have an indi-mechanic do it, it seems pretty cheap insurance.

[JMatta]

I'm also considering replacing mine, not due to mileage, but age. My '02 will be ten years old next spring when it comes out of storage, with 21k miles on the odo. I replaced the t-stat with the LN low temp unit two years ago and probably should have done the pump at the same time, but that was before Jake's suggestions were made public. Refilled with Porsche OEM coolant at the same time.

FWIW, my car runs much cooler with the 160 degree unit and oil is changed annually at about 2500 to 3000 miles; 5W40 Castrol Syntec.

[Doug&Julie]

So just to update, my car is in for a 40k service. I did buy a new water pump / gasket / V-belt in preparation for the change, but decided to let the techs tell me if I really need it right now. Bottom line is I don't. Zero leaks, bearing spins freely, and the belt is still very good. So I'm going to save the $475 quoted labor and hold onto my parts for the time being.

And hey...imagine that...a "stealership" that turns away a chance to get another $500 out of a customer!

[ronster]

Originally Posted by Doug&Julie

So just to update, my car is in for a 40k service. I did buy a new water pump / gasket / V-belt in preparation for the change, but decided to let the techs tell me if I really need it right now. Bottom line is I don't. Zero leaks, bearing spins freely, and the belt is still very good. So I'm going to save the $475 quoted labor and hold onto my parts for the time being.

And hey...imagine that...a "stealership" that turns away a chance to get another $500 out of a customer!

I'd be the last to say I told you so and I'd certainly become friends with that dealer and go back. Now that $475 you saved think of the mods you can do.

[Doug&Julie]

Originally Posted by ronster

I'd be the last to say I told you so and I'd certainly become friends with that dealer and go back.

We have an advantage in that there are three dealerships within 45 minutes of our house. I suppose that means they're "battling" for business. I certainly feel I can't complain.

Originally Posted by ronster

Now that $475 you saved think of the mods you can do.

Oh man...sadly $475 will barely make a dent in my "mods" list. But I'll probably need new tires soon, so there's that...

[Jim & Kim 986]

My original water pump failed at 80k. I'm at 143k and since the car is a 2001, I decided to through the whole car. New motor mount, thermostat w/housing, all new hoses, coolant, belt, tune up, oil, change, new filters, air/oil and of course the water pump. While the motor mount is out, the water pump and thermostat housing is the easiest thing in the world to do. The existing water pump was fine. I figured so what, change it any way!

The new water pump has a bad bearing and is squealing from the first start!

The "while you are at it mentality is a very deep rabbit hole". I've been down it!

I learned the hard way "easier" isn't always easier!

[Brian in Tucson]

I'm doing an engine swap this month (Dec. 17.) The engine that's coming out is an 01, leaks oil and smokes like an s.o.b. Has only 75K on it. But it's been overheated. The engine that's going in has about 60K on it--it's one of those factory recalled and rebuilt engines with an upgraded IMS.

Regarding the cooling pump, I'm going to evaluate both pumps. I don't believe that they need to be changed every 40K, other engines I have seem to be okay for much longer than that. And a couple hundred for a new one would be kinda painful. But we'll see. The cost of a new coolant pump is pretty close to the same as an under drive engine pulley.

I'm one who is good with staying stock heat range on the thermostat. My current engine tops out at 185* no matter what I do.

[patkeefe]

I still have the OE water pump...184K.

[Jim & Kim 986]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

another quick point. my car is a 2000, and i really notice how the plastic is deteriorating on all the various trim bits i've got. so, i've kinda made it my mission to either replace or get as much of the plastic out of my engine as possible - chain ramps, oil baffle, water pump. i'm already getting a significant amount of it in my oil filter, so perhaps i can assume it'll get rid of itself all on it's own if i wait long enough ...

My 2001 base just turned 144k. The first water pump failed while I was driving at around 80k. Fortunately, I was able to stop immediately, without risk of overheating. I just replaced the water pump "just in case". I'm trying to avoid, towing bills, overheating, breaking down on the side of the road (what if my wife is driving), being late to wherever I'm going when it happens, etc. The water pump suddenly seems cheap.

By the way, consider the possibility that the plastic in your oil filter is actually the deteriorating seal on your IMS bearing.

I have the same problem! Greenish gray/tan plastic (?).