2005 Cooper S Front end and Engine upgrades

[brazharris]

Hi there,

I'm looking for some advice. I have seen the technical write-ups for the Mini you guys provide and they look Great!

i have a few projects I'm looking to do to my Mini and I'd like to do them all in one tear down.

- New Front end components - Lower control arm bushings, Tie Rods, and Shocks.

- Clutch Kit

- Supercharger Reducer Pulley and serpentine belt

- Oil Pan Gasket

So in what order I should complete all of these replacements and any Tips or advice you have while I'm doing all this at once.

thanks!

Ben Harris

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Hello Ben, a bit late to the party, but figured I'd share in case someone else is interested in this as well.

Advice for the supercharger pulley and belt, if you haven't already serviced the supercharger (and it hasn't ever been serviced) it would be time to do so. Then add an upgraded pulley. You'll also want to go with one step colder spark plugs.

Supercharger oil here - Supercharger Oil 260874010 - AC Delco - 26-0874-010-M71 | Pelican Parts
Madness pulley - 2005 Mini Cooper S Hatchback - Turbos & SuperChargers - Page 2
Spark plugs - NGK BKR7EQUP (4285) http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/6319/MIN_6319_ELIGNT_pg1.htm#item0

After that I would tackle the oil pan gasket, depending on how bad it's leaking (if it's leaking). Depending on the condition of your clutch, I'd tackle that as well. We have some great clutch super kits here: 2005 Mini Cooper S Hatchback - Clutch & Flywheel - Page 1 as they provide everything you'll need and want to replace while you have access to it. There is also the ever so popular clutch/flywheel conversion kit that many MINI owners upgrade to when it's time for a new clutch: Clutch Kit 52151203 - Valeo - 52151203-INT | Pelican Parts. Let me know if you have questions on that conversion.

Suspension would be the last I'd hit during the tear down. For the lower control arm bushings, consider Powerflex bushings here: 2005 Mini Cooper S Hatchback - Suspension Upgrades & Performance - Page 4. They're more cost effective than OEM bushing replacements and also provide prolonged tire life as well as a great performance gain. For the struts/shocks, go with Bilstein Touring class here: 2005 Mini Cooper S Hatchback - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 1. They're very cost efficient and are also a direct OEM replacement with a good performance gain, but also retain a smooth ride. While you do the shocks/struts you'll also want to replace the front/rear mounts as you'll have access to them.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[brazharris]

Thanks Luccia,

So i have all the parts listed. I ordered them from you guys last week Thanks!

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by brazharris

Thanks Luccia,

So i have all the parts listed. I ordered them from you guys last week Thanks!

My pleasure, Ben! If you decide you want to document the supercharger service you can submit it to our consumer content HERE. It's an article we do not have up in the library and would definitely be beneficial for other MINI owners. If it gets selected you'll get 10% off your next order with us. If you have any questions or need anything just let me know. Good luck with everything!

[brazharris]

Hi Luccia,

I started the teardown and found that my front valence(spoiler) under the bumper cover was almost completely gone, there was only Half of it left!!

I'm having trouble finding a replacement on your site. can you post the link to the part #? thanks!

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Oh dear! Front spoiler, #1 below is HERE. Let me know if you need anything else.

[brazharris]

ha, no I need #2 on that page thanks!

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

The bumper cover trim, #2, is HERE. Happy to help.

[brazharris]

Hi Luccia,

well i have sucessfully pulled the transmission to get the the Clutch,

but in doing so, I managed to break a line that looks like its coming off the Supercharger to some kind of sensor. see Photo -





ca you direct me the part i need to replace? Thanks!

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Don't worry, almost everyone breaks that map sensor hose when working around the supercharger. New one is HERE.

[brazharris]

Hi Luccia,

I have ANOTHER question. I have successfully replaced the Clutch, RMS, oil pan gasket, etc., and got the Transmission mated back on to the Engine. I am almost ready to remount the sub frame, suspension, and button up the car. I was looking at the steering system on the Subframe, and there looks like there is leakage, coming from somewhere. Also the reservoir is completely empty.

I want to try to figure out where the leak is coming from and hopefully repair it before i put the subframe back under the car. Any advice on how to check for leaks on the steering with the steering system and subframe off the car?


thanks!

[Wyvern]

I have done all of your list ( even a couple of times )
You will need a press or fabricate one for the bushings. (i made mine out of a bottle jack and some square tube)

One thing missing on your list is a new belt.
You will need a shorter one .. you can by using measurement or use the JCW one as it is shorter because the SC pulley is already smaller.
Also while in there be very sure to check your belt tension mechanism and add a "keeper" to the system while you are there . there is a cable system and a flat plate system ... both stop the mechanism dropping into the pulleys IF a belt ever breaks ( the cable style often doesn't last long / the flat bar style does make a tiny bit of noise .

Have you already done intake / exhaust ?
those would be next then a good ECU tune.

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by brazharris

Hi Luccia,

I have ANOTHER question. I have successfully replaced the Clutch, RMS, oil pan gasket, etc., and got the Transmission mated back on to the Engine. I am almost ready to remount the sub frame, suspension, and button up the car. I was looking at the steering system on the Subframe, and there looks like there is leakage, coming from somewhere. Also the reservoir is completely empty.

I want to try to figure out where the leak is coming from and hopefully repair it before i put the subframe back under the car. Any advice on how to check for leaks on the steering with the steering system and subframe off the car?


thanks!

Be sure to inspect the rack and make sure it looks like it's in good condition. Check the boots and make sure they aren't cracked. The R53 power steering pump does have a bad reputation and it seems that this is one of the more common items to fail on the car. I wouldn't be surprised if the pump was the source of the leak. I'd also be concerned about the power steering lines as they're known to leak as well. Check the return and suction lines. #1 and #11 on the diagram below.



#11 is the return line HERE
#1 is the suction hose HERE

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by Wyvern

I have done all of your list ( even a couple of times )
You will need a press or fabricate one for the bushings. (i made mine out of a bottle jack and some square tube)

One thing missing on your list is a new belt.
You will need a shorter one .. you can by using measurement or use the JCW one as it is shorter because the SC pulley is already smaller.
Also while in there be very sure to check your belt tension mechanism and add a "keeper" to the system while you are there . there is a cable system and a flat plate system ... both stop the mechanism dropping into the pulleys IF a belt ever breaks ( the cable style often doesn't last long / the flat bar style does make a tiny bit of noise .

Have you already done intake / exhaust ?
those would be next then a good ECU tune.

Yes, I agree the be sure to check the belt tensioner and for added insurance it may be good to replace it when doing the pulley. As for a belt tensioner stop, I'd have to advise against that upgrade particularly because shops are coming to find they cause some issues and even rattle. I have seen them say that the tensioner stop limits the tensioner movement, they rattle and even bend. If you replace the belt tensioner as preventative measures you should be fine without the stop and also be sure to check the condition of the belt and replace the belt about every 20-30k miles for preventative measures.

[Wyvern]

My track car MINIs and street car all have the tension stop . a bit of rattle is WAY less of an issue than a broken belt dropping into the pullies (ask me how I know) If it limits the movement in normal range it is installed wrong, and if it limits tension the worst that will happen is belt slip .

Here is the how to on Pelican about the stop .
MINI Cooper Belt Tensioner Stop (R50/R52/R53 2001-2006) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

[brazharris]

I have done all of your list ( even a couple of times )
You will need a press or fabricate one for the bushings. (i made mine out of a bottle jack and some square tube)

One thing missing on your list is a new belt.
You will need a shorter one .. you can by using measurement or use the JCW one as it is shorter because the SC pulley is already smaller.
Also while in there be very sure to check your belt tension mechanism and add a "keeper" to the system while you are there . there is a cable system and a flat plate system ... both stop the mechanism dropping into the pulleys IF a belt ever breaks ( the cable style often doesn't last long / the flat bar style does make a tiny bit of noise .

Have you already done intake / exhaust ?
those would be next then a good ECU tune.

Nice,

I did order a new smaller belt and got it installed. I've had the Mini since August and have really only done a few upgrades - I replaced the Coil, SP wires, and plugs, and added a K&N air filter.

Be sure to inspect the rack and make sure it looks like it's in good condition. Check the boots and make sure they aren't cracked. The R53 power steering pump does have a bad reputation and it seems that this is one of the more common items to fail on the car. I wouldn't be surprised if the pump was the source of the leak. I'd also be concerned about the power steering lines as they're known to leak as well. Check the return and suction lines. #1 and #11 on the diagram below.

Ok thank you! i will start cleaning all of it up and inspecting it tonight. I saw that this particular year car has an extended warranty on the PS pump, and my car would still be covered, so once its put back together i will likely have the dealer replace it.
for free!

[Luccia at Pelican Parts]

Originally Posted by brazharris

Nice,

Ok thank you! i will start cleaning all of it up and inspecting it tonight. I saw that this particular year car has an extended warranty on the PS pump, and my car would still be covered, so once its put back together i will likely have the dealer replace it.
for free!

Anytime! Yes, I believe they actually have a recall for them now as we got notice of it via mail about a month or so ago for our R53. I believe notice about the recall started in October, 2015 and they recently started sending out letters. Either way, if your pump has a problem or not, it may be a good idea to give your dealer a call anyways.