6x6 is going to be really big for posts.
Are you notching them like the original posts were?

No I will not be notching , will mount 2x6 on face frame then screw 6x6 to the 2x6 . Will also run a lag bolt from under the deck boards into the bottom of the posts .

Hmmm now you have me thinking maybe 4x4 posts would be sufficient .

I would think 4x4 would be plenty big since it's going to backed up by the 2x6.

I don't think it'd look that bad if the 4x is centered up on the 2x6. Put all the screws in from the 2x6 side so you can't see them from the 'deck' side.

If you have a 2x on edge around the perimeter of your deck, you'll be sweeping corners.

I think if I go 4x4 post then I would go 2x4 on the upright supports . Drop down to 1/4 " through bolts and lags for the bottom . Saves some money and is more than heavy enough to support the hog fence I want to use to replace the ballusters .

Plus by dropping down to 4x4 I can use existing tools for all the cuts . Milt you mentioned NOT using pressure treated what would you recommend instead ? Cedar ? Why not PT ? Trying to learn .

Appreciate the thoughts Zeke.
I'm not familiar with 'hog fence' so don't know if the 'extra' width of the 2x6 would help with mounting it or not.

So maybe the 'extra' width of the 2x6 could be used to help mount the mesh...

I was thinking this exact thing ! My plan is to make a frame work for the hog fence panels to sit against , then place another frame work over it making a sandwich of wood structure with the hog fence in the middle . The top portion of the frame work will also be the base for the hand rail cap . You guys chiming in with comments and suggestions is VERY helpful thank you !

Do ya wanna use cedar 2x4s? Yes....I am that $tooooopid....Lowes has 'em for approx $10/per :D. OK for a smaller project tho'....I only get the perfect ones at that price.

That is my thinking. I'd set the hog mesh such that it is above the deck by an inch or so, so that you can pwr wash or hose leaves/debris off without it having to go 'thru' the hog mesh.
I'm tempted to do a rough drawing but I'm afraid you guys would laugh at my 'artistic' skills.

Scott you pretty much nailed it I just need to figure out the frame work . I have to go to Tractor Supply and see how rugged the fence is. I really don't want a frame at the bottom but it will only work if it is stiff enough . Or instead of having posts every 8 ' maybe every 4 ' . More research needed.

My plan is to have the hog fence attached on the top and both sides . The top will be sandwiched between two 2x4's and the sides maybe 1's ? So basically " hanging " from the top and " supported " by the sides . Running a cable at the bottom might be an option . We have no children living at home and the youngest grand child is now 5 so not too worried about the bottom but obviously don't want to take any chances . Our two dogs are so old they are just happy their lungs go in and out :D . Will keep the cable in mind . Thanks

We did this for our garden to keep the deer out. We used a dado to cut a groove in the 4x4 posts. We then use a rubber mallet to pound the hog fence in the groves so it is a tight fit.

We have it in grooves on all four sides though so it can't get out.

It's cold and rainy out so I have time to think ........ probably not a good thing 😁 So now thinking about the framing and want to keep it simple as possible . So if I remove all existing posts and ballusters and go with 2x4's mounted on the perimeter and through bolted .

Then take hog fence and place one or two Staples per board to hold the fence in place . Then one by one install the 4x4 posts so the fence is sandwiched in between . Now I can make my top horizontal structure of 2x4's that sandwiches the fence and is the framework for the hand rail to mount to . I think this would be a very clean look . Thoughts ?

Here's how I'd do it.
4x4 posts backed by 2x6 that comes up to a 2x4's width of the top of the 4x4's.
2x4 on top of the 2x6 that is long enough to tie into at least 3 of the 4x4 posts. The idea is to tie the posts together and provide a 'frame' to help capture the hog mesh.
Top the 4x4 posts off with a 2x6 laying on top to act as the hand rail. It can also be tied into the 2x4's that are going between the 4x4's.
Now cut the hog mesh to size to fit into the 'picture frame' formed by the posts and top rail. You can staple the top edge up under the 2x6 hand rail so it won't show, to the 2x4 going between the posts. For the post-mesh interface, rip some 2x4's down to pieces that will make them as wide as the 2x6 that is backing the posts. Just screw these pieces to the 2x6 backer and capture the mesh inbetween it and the 2x6.
To make it easy to replace the mesh, I'd do the same on the underside of the handrail rather than staple the mesh to the 2x4. Unscrewing the 'ripped' boards would be easier than pulling staples.
Again, I'm not familiar with hog mesh so don't think it would be easy to work with pieces bigger than the 'frame' size created by the posts/handrail sections.
Let me know if you need a picture, I'll work on one if needed.

Had not thought about possible future replacement of damaged fence . Good point . If you would like to share a drawing please do so ........... I promise not to laugh 😁

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1575939779.JPG

I'd do better with a drafting table.
This kind of shows what I mean. It shows the 2x6, 2x4 on top of it and 2x6 handrail, 4x4 post sitting off to the side and a 'ripped' piece to hold the mesh.

Here is a 'side' view of a post/handrail/2x6 backer with 2x4 tie rail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1575940172.JPG