paging Milt or other smart wood workers
 

Hello everyone I am nearing the end of a deck makeover , to date it has been removing old deck boards and replacing with new . I am getting close to completing that portion . So thinking ahead to the posts/railings . I am not going to do conventional wood ballusters , instead I am going to use hog fence . My plan is to remove all ballusters and posts and replace the posts with new .

The existing posts were " notched " and only nailed in place :eek: which I understand is a no no on both . So my current plan is to through bolt a 2x6 board that is maybe 1 " shorter then the height of the posts . The posts will set on top of the deck boards and I will use screwloks or similar to go from the 2x6 into the 6x6 posts . I think this would be very solid as is . But I want to go that little extra to make sure........... it's the little extra I need help with . Do I just pre-drill two holes at the face of the posts at an angle and screw into the deck boards ? Or is there some type of base/shoe for this purpose ?

Below is a pic of how the posts currently are , at this point I have all the perimeter boards in place so not really interested in a structural do over . This is an elevated deck so no one sits on the railing . Once the new posts are in place then I will build the picture frame type framework for the hog fence panels to mount into . Then handrail cap and it's done . Keep in mind I am not nor ever will be a Milt quality wood worker or as good as a lot of you guys so lets stay with the KISS principle if possible :D .

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1575730415.jpg

His plan, I think, is to bolt upright 2X6's to the deck 'facia' then scab the posts to the 2x6's. His question is how to connect the bottom of the posts to the deck.

I think screwing the posts to the 2/6 backers will pretty much stop anything that could be on the deck from moving the railing. I wouldn't worry about toe-nailing the posts directly to the deck. I'd leave 'em be.

You could use 6X6 fasteners (which are like joist hangers) but why bother?

I think I understand, if so I did something similar recently. I blogged the posts in used structural screws. Similar to this.

https://www.casparcg.org/wp-content/...stallation.jpg

Crowbob has it exactly right , I want to through bolt 2x6's approximately 46 " long to the perimeter deck structure . That structure is two 2x10's with 1/2 " plywood in between . That will leave 36 " of 2x6 above the deck surface which is about perfect to attach the post to .

Milt thanks for chiming in , I had not thought about running a screw or two up from the bottom into the posts ......... brilliant !!!

I love this forum , so much knowledge to share. Thanks guys

Glad it clear thing for you rfuerst


that's how we always do it when it comes to post stability on decks just like the pic posted by Vincent. except we move that joist to so a bolted comes through the rim joist, the post itself, and a bit 4x blocking so there's no movement. We use an old fashion Melleable cast iron washer for strength and durability. Paint to match and it all disappears from three feet away.

Not a builder, but I don't like it.

Why not cut out a hole and bolt the 2x6" directly to the uprights from the ground? Sistered.
Add more if necessary.
Half above and half below, perhaps hidden on the backside, and secured with two three or four 1/2" lag bolts through both.
Also cross-brace the below structure.

Attaching something, to something, to something, will be more work and not utilize the total strength of the wood fibers.

Not cutting any holes , I now have a plan that will be solid as a rock .

Milt you explained exactly what I will do. The 2x6 uprights I will use 3/8 galvanized bolts/washers/nuts . Then from under the deck I will mark and pre drill one hole for a 3/8 lag bolt 6 " long . The deck is 5/4 so that lag bolt will be plenty . I think an NFL linebacker would have to work hard to budge that structure .

Post some pictures when you are done.

Post pictures of NFL linebackers budging them!

Good one that made me laugh :D

On a different note what is the best way to cross cut a 6x6 ? My 10 " power mitre box can't do it and neither can my 10 " table saw at least not in one clean cut . I will have to take 8 footers and basically cut in half , I need a clean straight cut . I suppose it can be done with a circular saw and just rotate the post ? Do 10 " or 12 " slide saws cut a 6x6 in one pass ?

How many cuts, and where are ya getting them from? If just a few....mebbe find the "right" guy and let them do it on the store saw as you watch?

For cutting 6X6’s you can use a very sharp chain saw, then sand the ends beginning with the coarsest sandpaper you can find until you’re satisfied.

Put the rough cut ends toward the deck. You may be able to put the factory-cut ends up without too much cleaning up if you’re lucky.

^^^ yep...use a guide board to make it more precise....toss the scrap through yer new truck window ;)

You are one sick puppy :D

I will probably just cut them with my circular saw while in the truck bed . Pull them out one at a time , mark and cut . That way I'm not trying to lift an 8 footer onto a saw stand/table .

I'd probably lay them on a flat level surface, square them up and cut them all at once, with a saw guide. Rotate as needed, then follow Zeke's advice.

Or I'd cut them with a miter saw, set up to cut them all the same length.

The least attractive option to me is cutting them one at a time with a skilsaw.

I do have a reciprocating saw I wonder if I can get straight cuts with a long blade ?

No.