2006 Subaru Impreza Outback - head gasket oil weepage

[Bob Kontak]

Sisters 2006 Subaru Impreza Outback normally aspirated 4 cyl engine is seeping oil at the base of the head/cylinder interface. 140k miles. No mingling of oil and coolant observed. Car runs fine.

These cars are known for failing head gaskets. Pic of the seepage below.

Take action now or is there breathing room left as to time?

Thinking thru this, I should pressurize coolant system to see if it holds......Compression test, too.

Head gaskets are a big job on a not so valuable car but if it needs done, this is the time before bad things happen.

[pwd72s]

I've read that the fix trick is to use the Subaru Turbo head fasteners when replacing gaskets..

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

I've read that the fix trick is to use the Subaru Turbo head fasteners when replacing gaskets..

I have heard the turbo gaskets also. MLS I think they call them.

Have seen links that say if weeping/seeping, it's time. Ugh.

[Tobra]

Subie uses a Type 1 VW knockoff design, sort of, but engine drop in a bug is a can of corn, with a Subie not so much.

[Rinty]

Bob:

The pros use turbo gaskets.

If it has a manual transmission, do the clutch too, while the engine is out.

140,000 is good life; my '07 needs rings at 106,000, so I'm looking at a new one.

[fastfredracing]

Im not a subie expert, but I think you can go long with that one . I've seen them leaking worse than that , with a lot more miles .
The head gaskets are not as bad of a job as you would think. Still adds up though .
I just picked up a 2006 today for my new rental house tactical assault vehicle .

[RWebb]

my 2010 Forester does the same thing (and I also don't know how long it can go (tho I do know it will go somewhere else as soon as I can get a new SUV))

I think the risk varies with the arrangement of the cooling and oil ports, but don't know what the layout is on mine much less your sisters

one thing you can do is to check and see if it is covered by one of the many class action lawsuits that has been won against Subaru (mine isn't and I know some vehicle older than mine are covered)

on mine a fix costs about $2,000 which is about 25% of the value of the vehicle...

Good Luck!

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by fastfredracing

Im not a subie expert, but I think you can go long with that one . I've seen them leaking worse than that , with a lot more miles .
The head gaskets are not as bad of a job as you would think. Still adds up though .
I just picked up a 2006 today for my new rental house tactical assault vehicle .

After some more reading the 2000-2009's leak oil externally at the head gasket. So the issue becomes is so much oil leaking it becomes a low oil problem vs engine integrity. Earlier engines leaked internally.

Also the weeping area is the return to case run for oil. No pressure just like return tubes on the 911 oil cooled.

If cooling system holds pressure I will replace valve cover gaskets (needed badly around spark plugs) and install a timing belt kit which is due.

[cabmandone]

Mind over matter. If you don't mind... it don't matter. They'll run a long time like that.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

After some more reading the 2000-2009's leak oil externally at the head gasket. So the issue becomes is so much oil leaking it becomes a low oil problem vs engine integrity. Earlier engines leaked internally.

Also the weeping area is the return to case run for oil. No pressure just like return tubes on the 911 oil cooled.

If cooling system holds pressure I will replace valve cover gaskets (needed badly around spark plugs) and install a timing belt kit which is due.

I think the 09 has the stretch fit belt for one of the drive belts. If it does, I have the piece you need to install those if you don't

[Dansvan]

I do at least one of these jobs a month. Single cam motors, piece of cake. In and out, use the MLS gaskets and new bolts. DOHC motors check for a depression between the cylinders on the exhaust side. They are soft there and may need resurfaced. New bolts and bobs your uncle. But yes, a lot of people just put oil in and keep on trucking. (Subee-ing?)

[pavulon]

I had the gaskets done on my outback at around 100K miles. I did it because I count on the thing and today it was -15F for my 90 mile round trip commute. It has never let me down, I try to take care of it (regular Mobil 1 0-30 changes and I don't hammer it especially when cold) and after 130K miles it has not let me down.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Dansvan

I do at least one of these jobs a month. Single cam motors, piece of cake. In and out, use the MLS gaskets and new bolts.

Originally Posted by pavulon

I had the gaskets done on my outback at around 100K miles. I did it because I count on the thing and today it was -15F for my 90 mile round trip commute. It has never let me down, I try to take care of it (regular Mobil 1 0-30 changes and I don't hammer it especially when cold) and after 130K miles it has not let me down.

I used these comments in talking to my sister. She wants to do it for peace of mind.

Sigh.

Next thing you know she'll want the family discount on labor charges

[SCadaddle]

Pretty good place to get the gaskets/head bolts/timing belt components:

https://sixstarbernie.com/

I've been watching for this same leak on my 05 Legacy wagon with 115k for a while. My friend that has an 07 Outback had his begin leaking profusely at 106k. It was pouring oil out like a sieve and burning off the exhaust. Went from dry as a bone one day to pouring oil the next.

What I've noticed: The OEM "blue" Subaru filters for these single cam engines suck. The gasket is very small and not very tall. The last one I hand installed, the top of the filter canister bottomed out on the engine block. That's no good so I took it off and tossed it. The cheap Purolator filters aren't much better with regard to same, although they do have a much wider and flat gasket as compared to the "O" ring shape of the OEM filters. The Wix filter 57712 seems to be the pick of the litter. I also think I've been lucky by using 10W-30 instead of 5W-30. Mobil 1 5W-30 seems thinner than water.

Bob, before I went down the long road of repairs on what you've depicted, I'd try an oil change with a Wix filter and 10W-30 oil, clean up the bottom of the engine and monitor for a few weeks. You might even try to slip the thinnest of feeler gauges between the existing filter and the bottom of the engine to see if the last person that changed the oil didn't "bottom out" the filter on install, or worse "double gasket'ed" it.

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I used these comments in talking to my sister. She wants to do it for peace of mind.

Sigh.

Next thing you know she'll want the family discount on labor charges

Probably a good call but there are likely millions of 2.5l Subies out there with that exact problem. I know I've owned two. I just checked the gas and filled the oil.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Dansvan

I do at least one of these jobs a month. Single cam motors, piece of cake.

Single cam.

Originally Posted by SCadaddle

I'd try an oil change with a Wix filter and 10W-30 oil, clean up the bottom of the engine and monitor for a few weeks.

I can do that.

Originally Posted by cabmando

Probably a good call but there are likely millions of 2.5l Subies out there with that exact problem. I know I've owned two. I just checked the gas and filled the oil.

Still on the fence.

I do have to do the valve cover gaskets as they leak into the spark plug tubes and create misfires. From a post about this issue here maybe a year ago it's a bit of a PITA with the frame clearance.

Timing belt kit and water pump is also overdue.

Just maybe pulling the engine and doing the whole nine yards is not the worst option. I do have a two post lift but the hanging over the fenders and going deep can be as tiresome as a the latch thingie in the belly when changing a distributor cap on an older Chevy truck.

[Arizona_928]

I'm going to say that's a class 1 leak. Barely a class 2 if droplets form. which it doesn't look like. If class 2. Still okay to operate as long as it's not a steady drip/stream.
class 3 deadlined...

I say motor on. It's also a known issue on all subies.

[Laneco]

I would keep driving it and put away $150 a month for the repair. This is more a 'seep' than a leak. If it lasts another year, there will be $1800 in the account to repair the vehicle. Evaluate and decide then.

We've had probably half a dozen of these 2000 to 2003 circa 2.5 subarus. Every damn one leaked. The active leakers got fixed. Our daughter's forester was one. The head gaskets got done at 130,000 miles. The car now has almost 300,000 on it. They are seeping again, close to a leak. This one - we may fix and give to the grand daughter or it may just scrap out when the leaking becomes problematic.

angela

[fastfredracing]

Myself, Id keep on truckin' . I mean, the car is worth what , 2500? Until I see a drip, I would not even consider repairing . Im gonna go out on a limb, and say that most of the cars I see come through here look just like that . Once oil starts dripping onto the exhaust, then I would consider replacement .
I was going to take a picture of mine, to give you some reference, and lo and behold.... My gaskets have already been done . sweet ! I see clean heads, and new gaskets poking out the bottom . 113,000 miles .
Good luck Bob !

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by Laneco

... Every damn one leaked. ...

and so much for Subaru's claim to being a 'green' car company - the newer ones leak too BTW

all that used oil goes on the hwy, then is flushed into the streams, rivers, lakes and ocean - you know: where your kids swim and your fish come from...