Guys that had beetles...
 

I know a bunch of you guys had vw beetles. What did you run for oil in yours?

I need to change the oil in my baja bug and it has a hopped up AE 1600 DP.

I have a case of Mobil 1 15W50 that Mobil comp’d me for driving to Luftgekuhlt last year. I could use it but I think I need some ZDDP in there. I have a 1/2 bottle of Brad Penn kicking around that I could dump in with it. I have no idea what is currently in it for oil. I’m worried that the Mobil 1 will make it leak (currently it has seeps but no leaks).

I also have a bunch of 5W20 and 5W30 synthetic Penzoil I could use but again think this is not the right oil for it.

I really don’t want to go out to buy oil right now... what would you do?

Predictably the oil thread on The Samba is a million pages long and there is no really good concensus there.

I used the kind that came in a can!

Today's oils are so much better. So yeah, any thing with the ZDDP is going to be alright. Weight dependent on climate.

I used Harley-Davidson 20W-50 in my Beetles for 30 years without issue. They have synthetic and dyno, I just used the dyno. In a large part because I always have it on hand, and it's really easy to find on the road away from home. And, being motorcycle specific, it is not beholden to the regulations lowering ZDDP content. Of course newer Harleys now have CATs, so I'm not sure how that has affected their oil. I'm told it is still useable in all older Harleys, but they have always had roller tappets anyway, so I'm not sure how important they consider ZDDP content to be. It is still recommended for use in their older transmissions, though, so it must still retain the higher shear strength needed in that application. I did continue to run it in my last Beetle for about 5-6 years after Harley added CATs to their touring bikes, if that means anything.

I think straight 30 wt was recommended. I use 10w40 in my H block. I don’t drive it enough tens of thousands of miles to worry about ZDDP.

They took oil?

_

^^
Not much!

You need zinc, so you could use the oil you have on hand and add and additive

Back in 73 it was Pennzoil 30W. If I had one now would make sure it has a ZDDP additive package.

I concur. If the engine is well broken in, and sound. Synthetic or dino does not matter. 30w at a minimum. 50w if the engine is tired. Oil weight tightens up tolerances. Thick oil helps worn out engines, continue to work. Amsoil is the original synthetic, it works for it's purpose, it is not snake oil. Research bobistheoilguy.com /



Back in the day, grab any oil that the gas station sold, and dump it in your beetle. ;)

My VWs (both with 1600DP) live in a moderate climate, so I use Joe Gibbs 10W-30 conventional oil with high ZDDP designed for classic vehicles.
Available from Amazon → https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Driven-Racing-10W-30-Conventional/dp/B003XUF7IE/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=joe+gibbs+10w-30+hotrod+oil&qid=1586140024&sr=8-21

For what you've already got on hand, I'd go with the 5W-30 Penzoil and add ZDDP if you have it. Unless used in a hot climate or a high-mileage motor, 50W oil can run overly hot by not allowing enough oil to be routed to the cooler.

If your vehicle has a 20k plus miles, or 100k miles, ZDDP does nothing for it. ZDDP is zinc. It was added to oil to aid camshaft break in. I was not good for cat converters. Once the cam and lifters go thru heat cycles, they have "mated". ZDDP is not necessary.

With that said, if you only start your car once every few years, high ZDDP oil is good.


ZDDP/Zinc protects cams and lifters. Not piston rings or bearings.

Not sure what oil has to do with the 3 hole? Common knowledge.

Daily drive a beetle or a Super 90, pay attention to lash. And oil level.

The cam & lifters don't get hot enough to change their wear characteristics. The 'mating' you speak of is really a mechanical burnishing which smooths out the surface finish on the cam lobe and lifter foot.

Yes, and all flat-tappet motors benefit from this. No reason to not use it in an air-cooled VW motor, especially for a buggy that's probably not driven so much.

Prior to a 1971, VW motors had their oil cooler mounted inside the fan shroud, right in the path of the cooling air for cylinder #3. This caused #3 to run hotter than the rest and could sometimes lead to exhaust valve failure. The revised oil cooler system used from '71-on resolved that problem.

I used to run regular whatever was cheapest oil + Slick 50 in mine. (this was more than 35 years ago)
Back then things were simpler.

Now I use LIQUIMOLY in my cars. Expensive but it's German so it must be good! ;)

I run Shell Rotella 15W-40 and a zinc/ZDDP additive like Thom/Widebody mentioned (the additive) in my '78 2.0L Type 4.

Shame on you. You should be using Penrite oils.

I buy the stuff to support you guys. And due to the fact it's got good ZDDP ;)

not sure of the others mentioned.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586167848.jpg

I had two different VW Bugs from 1970 to 1973 and it was replaced with a 1974 914 2.0. I ran straight 30 weight in all of them as I lived in Alabama at the time. Back then multi viscosity oils were not great, and bordered on bad. Of course all oils had the zinc in in back then.

It was in the late 70s or early 80s before multi vis oils were safe to use on a bug. Since you buying oil in 2020 there is simply no direct coloration to the olden days of bias ply tires and single weight oils. I use 20-50 Brad Penn in my 85 911.

If I had more Brad Penn on hand, this is what I would use. VR-1 would be great too but involves a trip into town to get.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I’m going to dump in the Brad Penn I have (I might have another quart in the 76 930) and top off with the Mobil 1 15w50. Either that or wait until I head into town for groceries next and get a jug of rotela or vr1.