aftermarket radiator ?

[look 171]

I picked up a 98 4 runner from a friend and the price is damn "right". Its his wife's car, just about 200k on the clock and they bought a new vehicle for their baby coming in 4-5 months. I totally understand.

This is for my kid. He's 14 now and I think it time he learn how things work on a car by getting his hands dirty. I know those are super reliable cars and are pretty easy to work on. I am swapping out all suspension, brakes and radiator. Any experience with those after market radiators? They are half the price compared to OEM. I always install oem unless I know there's a better product out there. Would you guy but the all alum. or the plastic job after market? Would you go heavier 3 core alum rad?

[Tobra]

Radiator in there was good for a few hundred thousand miles. Is he going to do a lot of towing or something? My buddy and I put and aftermarket rad in his kid's Honda, perfect fit.

I would probably put the aftermarket radiator in it, all new coolant hoses to go with it, don't want my kid walking on the side of the road because of $10 hose. I would also probably do all the soft lines in the braking system, 20 year old rubber is too old.

How old is the timing belt and water pump?

When I did this in the Miata, the all aluminum 50% bigger bolt in upgrade was like $50 more, so I went with that.

[GH85Carrera]

Radiators are not equal. The original radiator on my El Camino was a wimpy 2 core unit that could not keep the engine under 230 degrees driving down the highway at 60 MPH on a 105 degree day with the AC blasting ice cold.

I replaced it with an inexpensive aftermarket one that was a 3 core direct fit. It kept things cool, but it put two radiator shops out of business. It started leaking after a year, so I found a local shop that had been in business since 1950. They "fixed" it and guaranteed it for lifetime no leaks. A few months later it was leaking. I went back for my lifetime guarantee, and they were closed forever.

I found another shop, they fixed the other end of the radiator, and same deal, lifetime guarantee. Guess what, a few months later when I went back, they were out of business, and the building was even razed.

I did some digging and found a high quality replacement and it has gone over 200,000 miles with no leaks except hoses. It has outlasted a couple of water pumps. I do flush my radiator and engine every other year, and the radiator is clean if I look down into it with very minimal corrosion.

[mattdavis11]

We sell aftermarket radiators, and there is a difference in quality. I would either get a Koyo, Cryomax, or Genera (TYC), in that order, stay away from APDI, and Pacific Best. 1800 radiator will probably have the best price and lifetime warranty.

I have not had to replace the radiator in my Landcruiser, but someone did before I bought it. It's copper/brass OEM.

[masraum]

I've purchased several aftermarket radiators over the last 30 years and I don't think I've ever had a problem. I think I've had one that didn't bolt right up, and I may have taken that one back. They generally last as well as the stock in my experience.

[vash]

buy this one!!

there is a thread over on Tacoma World discussing it. how much is an OEM unit? this one is $350

https://www.urdusa.com/hd-high-performance-radiator-fj-cruiser-4runner-tacoma-4-0l-v6/

[masraum]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

Radiators are not equal. The original radiator on my El Camino was a wimpy 2 core unit that could not keep the engine under 230 degrees driving down the highway at 60 MPH on a 105 degree day with the AC blasting ice cold.

There have been several times in the past when I did the same thing. Stock rad was wimpy, aftermarket had another row or two for a small cost.

I did some digging and found a high quality replacement and it has gone over 200,000 miles with no leaks except hoses. It has outlasted a couple of water pumps. I do flush my radiator and engine every other year, and the radiator is clean if I look down into it with very minimal corrosion.

That's been my experience (maybe not the 200k miles, because I haven't owned anything that long). I don't think I've had any of the inexpensive aftermarkets cause any problems. I also don't necessarily go with the cheapest available either.

[vash]

opps crap your 4runner is a 98. nevermind!

[Tobra]

CSF is what I put in the Miata Vash, I bet they make one will fit a 1998 Toyota.

It is beautifully made by the way. As I said, very small price premium for all aluminum rad. Plastic end tanks fail, sometimes can take the head with them. The aluminum core with plastic end tanks epoxied on have always seemed sketchy to me.

[Scott Douglas]

One thing I'd make sure of if using after market is that they replicate the stock mounting. I know on my Honda's, the radiator 'floats' pretty much with no hard mounting points. I'd make sure the new one mounts just like the old one does. I'm pretty sure the 'float' is why they've lasted as long as they have in my cars. No vibration to work the joints.

[look 171]

I don't think he will ever tow anything? Hoses and brake lines, ball joints and steering parts are all coming out. Yep, don't want him walking on the side of the road and he's going off to college with it. They should last 300k with out serious repairs. According to sticker, water belts were done 40,000 ago, but will take a peek and see condition of belt.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by mattdavis11

We sell aftermarket radiators, and there is a difference in quality. I would either get a Koyo, Cryomax, or Genera (TYC), in that order, stay away from APDI, and Pacific Best. 1800 radiator will probably have the best price and lifetime warranty.

I have not had to replace the radiator in my Landcruiser, but someone did before I bought it. It's copper/brass OEM.

Thanks for the tip.

[mattdavis11]

CSF is good too. They probably have all metal as well.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by look 171

Hoses and brake lines, ball joints and steering parts are all coming out.

You can validate the steering parts and ball joint condition before replacement. At 200k probably not original. Moog if you replace.

Get loaded KYB struts/shocks for a nice step change improvement.

Consider alternator before he goes off to college.

Listen to Matt on radiator. Thankfully they are not that steep.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

One thing I'd make sure of if using after market is that they replicate the stock mounting. I know on my Honda's, the radiator 'floats' pretty much with no hard mounting points. I'd make sure the new one mounts just like the old one does. I'm pretty sure the 'float' is why they've lasted as long as they have in my cars. No vibration to work the joints.

All of the aftermarkets that I've ever had replicated the stock mounting.

[greglepore]

Some brands seem really good...ie nissen

[mattdavis11]

Nissens makes good parts. I believe they are a tier one parts supplier, OEM. Valeo is good too. Denso should be OEM for his 4 runner, but I could be wrong.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

You can validate the steering parts and ball joint condition before replacement. At 200k probably not original. Moog if you replace.

Get loaded KYB struts/shocks for a nice step change improvement.

Consider alternator before he goes off to college.

Listen to Matt on radiator. Thankfully they are not that steep.

Oh, he's got a few years but better start now.

[look 171]

I remembered I put a Koyo in my 80 Land Cruiser but I searched for Koyo for the 4runner and found nothing. Strange.