I received ^that^ plane, and I don't think it has ever been used. The wood is a uniform color and barely dirty. The heal end had a tiny little spot where a mouse had chewed on the corner, and there is a little rust on the tang end of the blade. The cutting end looks like it had factory grind marks and has never been sharpened and was darn sharp. I wish it had been a pair!

And I talked the guy selling these down a bit and talked the CFO into an "early Christmas present" so I have those on the way.

A normal half set of hollows and rounds is 9 pairs of planes. This is 7 pairs and a single that were all owned by one person so 15 matched/matching planes, and then One more that was not part of the original owners collection, and then 5-6 duplicate sizes which is nice since I consider those "spare parts".

Not that it matters, but this maker is relatively rare, and worked in Glastonbury, CT from the 1840 until 1871. I'll be keeping an eye out for the missing 2 planes, but I'm not holding my breath.

It seemed like a far better deal than buying new...
Although the HNT Gordon planes made out of some Australian hardwood and with brass boxing are sexy as hell. But I'm not driving a GT3RS....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759364123.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759364123.jpg

I also have these on the way.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759424717.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759424717.JPG

I used to have two 48" and two 36" Jorgenson parallel jaw clamps. When we downsized, I sold them in a garage sale thinking "If I need more in the future, I'll just buy them." I wish I still had them. Although it does look like Amazon has them for a decent price, $120/pr for the 48" which is only $10ea more than I remember paying.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...1000_QL80_.jpg

This hadn't registered with me the first time that I read it. I think I wasn't familiar with the Bridge City Tools back then. Very cool!

I have one of those large wooden clamps. They are good for modest pressure if you use them at all. Wax the threads.

I'm scrolling back through this thread looking for something specific (that might not even be in this thread), and saw this post.

The area of the country that I live in seems to have very little in the way of old wood working tools. But the area that you live in, there are TONS of old tools. The northeast is full of cool old stuff, and there are frequently "meets" where folks take their old stuff, set up tables, and sell their old tools.

I've also found this FB group that seems to be VERY safe as far as buying and selling (I've bought too much stuff, and will be selling some of it soon). This group has good prices (usually much better than eBay where a fool is born every minute) and sometimes if you're patient, great prices.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759507509.jpg

Thanks. I remember using some back in the 10th grade, I think. I took a woodshop class, but moved part of the way through the school year.

I have a pair of cheap-charlie handscrew clamps (steel threads) that I mostly use as fixture clamps for keeping things in-situ, they come in handy at the drill press as a sort of poor man's float-lock vise. One for the work piece, the second one to lock the first one to the table.

They're a pain to use for gluing, though. I'm not coordinated enough to remember which way to turn them, ha ha.

I received the 3 that I bought. They are enormous (the box weighed 27#). Hopefully, I am able to use them, but if not, they are still cool.

I have the Jorgensen ones and the HF ones. The name brand are nice to handle and all that but the HF ones clamp just as well. Being OCD about it I eased the edges of the HF ones and put a light stain on them to mimic the high end clamps. I guess I didn't want anyone to think I used HF tools on the job back when. Now it doesn't make a bit of difference. It's the opposite, leave your good tools home and take the cheap stuff for when it gets stolen.

So now fully retired I have both in the cabinets. Gotta have a sale or something. 2 and 3 of everything is too much. Did I mention I have 5 air compressors? I'm down to 4.

I think.

One thing for sure, if something breaks I just toss it. There's another one over there.

Funny story: when I was working and doing bodywork at home, I had 3 HF angle grinders set up with different wheels. I carried a Metabo to the jobsite and used the hell out of the HF ones on my cars. Well, after nearly 25 years I'm down to one HF grinder and still grab it instead of pulling out the Metabo box, unwinding the cord and installing a wheel.

Yeah, tools that come in a nice case live in the case.

PS, using a corded tool and having it go away in a big blue flash is pretty exciting. Wear your gloves.

I guess that's one of the benefits and a downside of us downsizing about 11 years ago. I got rid of a ton of tools except stuff that had a connection to my grandfather or parents (grandad's tools or dad's tools or gifts from mom & dad). There's been a bunch of it that I wish I still had. Fortunately, everything that I got rid of is either stuff that I still don't need or can buy again. So I don't have a ton of extra stuff (although I wouldn't mind having a garage full of the "extra" stuff.

Holy moly, yeah, having a power tool die with a blue flash would be very exciting. I've had a few die, but it was always more of a slow fizzle.

If/when you ever getting around to getting rid of old woodworking hand tools, if you are willing to ship, let me know. I would love to have some stuff from a well respected craftsman like yourself. It would be great to know that skilled hands had done skilled things with them, and to have known the previous owner even if it was just in the virtual world.

Wow! Those are very cool.

I like that the screws are wood. I suspect metal screws would be more functional, but the wood is cool to me.

I knew they would be big since the jaws are 20" long, but I didn't realize how big until I unboxed them.

The jaws are 20" long and about 2 ⅝" x 3". The wooden screws are 1 ¼" x 19" plus the handle. They are at least 8# each.

One thing I didn't need was another project, but this was in the parking strip down the street; it was in 3 pieces, and from the road it just looked like a heap of slash but I knew what it was the first time I rode my bike past it. I kept thinking about it but kind of hoped someone else would pick it up and take it home. Two days later it was still there, so I gave it a closer inspection and then returned with my truck to load it up. All quarter-sawn oak, and except for a delaminating veneer on the chair back (apparently it was common to veneer solid bentwood to achieve a better grain back in the glory days of furniture manufacturing) it's in remarkably good shape. The hardware is all there and functional, no splits need gluing, the parts bolted back together easily and firmly. just a lot of sanding, bleaching and refinishing to make a nice piece of furniture. I doubt it will be worth much, there's really no market anymore for antiques and vintage furniture. I found some matching side chairs online, so it looks like it's maybe 75 years old. There's label from the same NC factory as these two chairs.

I've reassembled it (dry) and done about an hours worth of sanding (hours to go) but I think I like the shape of it, and it may end up being a keeper.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760140030.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760140030.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760140030.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760140030.jpg

http://www.chairish.com/product/24271520/1950s-vintage-high-point-bending-chair-co-walnut-library-bankers-chairs-set-of-6

Very cool! Kind of like a cross between the "high point bending chair" in the screenshot (4 separate fixed legs) and a "banker's chair" (swivel with casters). That's actually what I want as a desk chair. I may hate it once I get it, but they look like the could be comfortable (maybe a pad for the seat would be in order), and the style would go better with/in our old home than a modern desk chair like an Aeron or one of the chairs that looks like the seat out of a race car.

I'd have one by now, because they do come up on FBMP from time to time, but when they come up, they are always 1-2hr drive away which is not something I'm likely to do unless I'm already headed that way and it looks like it's in good shape and/or a decent price.

Interestingly, the name of the factory in NC was the "High Point Bending and Chair Co."
Apparently, they got their start in the late 1800's steaming and bending wood and later launched into manufacturing furniture.

Not sure where to put this...

I think these would make good stocking stuffers

Zippo Bit Safe

https://zippo.com/cdn/shop/files/ejj...8715&width=600


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That's kind of cool. I don't smoke and have never carried a zippo, but my parents did. I've got a bunch of old zippos that were my dads that commemorate various things.

Drilling floating shelves for under cabinet lightinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761871771.jpg
Build a jig
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761871920.jpg
Start hope with drill press for perfectly straight holehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761872010.jpg
Finish hole with 12” drill bit http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761872126.jpg
Drill connecting hole from routered channel.

Cool

I have carpentry questions. Construction-type carpentry.

My curved, draped-roof azumaya is gonna need decking for the roof. Because the rafters are curved and draped, the roof decking must be flexible and accommodate a concave curve of 5-6” over a span of 12’ or so in two directions. As such, it’s not a severe deflection but rigid plywood won’t work. What will? OSB, thin plywood, planking? Also, because of matters beyond my control, the roofing on top of the decking (i.e., shingles, tiles, shakes, or whatever) may not happen for a year or three, so I’m thinking pressure treated or marine plywood would certainly work.

Any insights or thoughts?

You can buy plywood designed to flex. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/plywood/radius-bending-plywood

It seems like a gentle bend, nothing radical. Like Milt said, bending poplar is normally what people use but to use it on the exterior and it wouldn't get covered is asking to be done all over again with one season.

The other way is to kerf the face or 1x6 and get it to bend to the contour of the roof. Still, it needs to be covered from the element . An Azumaya is some type of Japanese temple like roof typical of Asian temples?

What about three layers of 1/4” marine plywood and stager the joints? Could you at least cover it with roofing paper for some protection before the shingles get put on?

‘Azumaya’ is roughly Japanese for ‘viewing pavilion’ which is basically a gazebo with curved roof and no siding. The kerfed 1-by sounds like a good plan. If I used pressure treated wood it probably wouldn’t need to be covered right away. At least for one season maybe even a year or two, I would think.

I’ve considered this. I’m wondering if taping the edges and covering the joints with ice/snow shield membrane would prevent the edges from swelling.

Probably the best thing would be to install the roof and shingles or whatever all at once. The rest of the structure is pressure-treated so it can sit exposed until I get the roof materials. 1/4” plywood was my first thought.

How about a Palapa roof? Palm fronds woven together like they do in Mexico. They seem to last forever and are certainly attractive. No smoking please ha ha

Can 1x pressured treated be had unless you get a batch made? I wouldn't waste my time with the trouble or use pressure treated up there.

How wide at the rafter spaced? Not the entire roof is curves, just the tip or edge? What do you see when you look up from the ground under the roof? Traditionally the underside of the roof or decking, which is normally a bunch of 1x or similar materials is seen, the roofs I saw in China was like it when I looked so there's maybe some influences between the two countries from 500 years back. Use bending plywood and build up to desire thickness or kerf the 1X. If the concern is appearance from the underside ( that would be my concern) finish it off with some cedar, oiled or painted, to achieve the traditional look. What's the roofing materials? Traditional Japanese tile with fancy curves? It wounds like a fun project, with plenty of problem solving.

have a pic, I like to see this.

Yes, need a pic of the framing

Unfinished. 18” OC rafters curved and draped (draped means the center rafters are lower than the hip rafters will be…

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1762710469.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1762710387.jpg

TnG 2x cedar. Cut to fit each piece center to rafter.

I'd do 1x 2 cedar strips (non T&G) horizontally, full length, and spaced a half inch. Good for any type of roofing you want and will look cool from below

@gregpark, the tea house shown above had rdw spaced sheathing and we took pains to not have any nail penetration from the shingles above. It DID look cool. Using multiples of the length of the shingles out nails were always in the right place. We just had to measure each shingle where we wee nailing to use the right length nail. That went a little slow. But, the small structure was pretty expensive to build so the effort was necessary. All done T&M. All the deck boards were blind screwed and the the frame was timber frame pegged mortise and tenon.

^ That was a lot of thoughtful work. The framing alone was slow and painful I'm sure but the end result makes a project like that worth it. T&M is the only way I'd take on a job like that too. Way too easy to underestimate the time on unconventional construction

I took a job couple years ago for a bike riding buddy on building a Craftsman fence and gates to his property. The giant gate up front will be fun and interesting to engineer along with others around the property. All mortise and tenant with square pegs. You bet your ass it will have SS screws and bolts but it will never show. Automatic gates will have a metal skeleton wrapped with lumber. It will be thick with pieces glued together to create the width needed then band saw out. Sadly, I haven't had time to start it yet. Been really busy with other projects and he know me and our work very well, so he's been waiting. My local lumber yard will love me because we will order a ton of cedar, Custom milling of T n G for the panels on the fence. It will be milled to 6/4, 2.5" in width for strength sitting inside a frame every 6' up the back hillside of the property.

It seems we are involved in none standard jobs like this very often. We just bid it out as such and pad it due to unknown issues especially the engineering aspect of it and sometimes design in the details. I have been fired by his architect twice on the remodel of his home. This will make it the third time I am sure because I will call out his BS design or lack of it. My job is to protect my friend or the home owner that's paying the bill not some dumb lazy, chip on their shoulder architects.

Jobs like your Azumaya are really fun and challenging to do. Show us some pics when you are done with it

@look171, I had a gate to build for a Lido Island home and I knew the weather would kill it in no time. The architect on the job was one of these cats that lives in VT and had an office in a old, old, converted barn. He thought he was the cat's ass.

This was a courtyard gate with a peek-a-boo iron insert just to make the thing tougher to build. His plan called for 2-1/4 custom T&G lumber through bolted with all thread. I balked at that and started with a 3/4" sheet of marine plywood, must have been somewhere around 9 layers of laminated hardwood. On top of that I used clear all heart rdw both sides. I sized the ply small so I could run a filler all around the edges so the ply edge would not show.

Having a stiff membrane as the core of that gate meant that the strap hinge bolts would be going through a sleeve pressed into the marine ply and proud enough so that the tightened bolts could not crush the surface boards. That gate did not sag.

I hang all gate slightly out of plumb with the hinge side leaning towards the jamb. IOW, the margin on the hinge side is narrower at the top. It never fails that the gate sags just enough after a few weather cycles to reach a perfect margin. They just all do that so why hang it plumb knowing you will be back in 2 weeks adjusting it.

Lots of pushback when owners see a slightly crooked gate at first. When it settles they get to eat their nit-picking crow. It's why I've learned to hate people. They can't stand not being able to be critical as if they could even drive a stake for a newly planted tree.

It really is not fun being an intelligent contractor. No one expects it and can't stand it when they get one.

Ha ha, my joke with architects is "do you know the difference between God and an architect?"
Answer: God knows he's not an architect

I was on a high end job and a guy was capping a 20' swinging metal gate with Ipe using no fasteners. Gorilla glue only! He wetted both surfaces before glueing and had 40 clamps on a 6"x20' stick. Damned if it didn't work! That's some strong stuff

The Gorilla Glue's pretty tough also.

:D

I'm making a mental note of that!

Intelligent contractors are what we pray for and seldom get which is why I do so much on my own.

Well Steve, your incomplete quoting me seems to be a bit out of context, but I'm good. The point is that few people are left that will trust a contractor to do them right and leave them to it. The worst are the skeptics that don't know what they are talking about. Ask Jeff, he knows for sure. We have several other contractors here. I think Rocket builds new homes.

Speaking of new homes, I once subbed quite a bit for a spec custom home builder. Early in his career he designed and built a beautiful home and sold it before construction was finished. Now that it was bought the new owner got involved and turned the whole thing into a nightmare.

That contractor vowed to never sell an unfinished home and if he built a house under contract it was strictly T&M. I mean they would set a budget based on the approved plans and he could and would stick to the budget until the first change order. Then all agreements as to price went out the window. Which happened every time.