I did, I painted three of the chairs black, and three dark blue..

The two chairs closest to the camera are blue....They only appear blue in natural light, so its very hard to tell that they are blue..

pivot...

Every time I pick up one or two of my guitars I am amazed by the inlays.. especially on my'78 Ibanez Artist


Also Ii have seen probably a dozen of these guitars and every one is slightly different (different luthiers)

Ibanez


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731959650.jpg

My PRS

9 different birds inlayed


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731959726.jpg

Was at the shop earlier and had my latest piece flattened prior to applying finish coats..

<iframe width="507" height="901" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KIHVrfoXg5Q" title="Flattening spalted maple" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This piece of maple has some really cool things going on with decay and figuring in the wood

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731963845.jpg

Pretty cool to see

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xtD8GL9iFW8" title="Making a Violin with HAND TOOLS: Commandeering Strad's Titian" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Lots of cool old tools!

https://shop.vintagevials.com/shop/

I got my Great Grandfather’s tool box open, lots of penetrating oil, move a little bit at a time, soak some more. Finally, very carefully opened it, making sure not to damage the fragile wood. Mostly old glass bottles wrapped in paper, at least so far.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg

It's very cool to have his toolbox even if it doesn't hold any tools!

$35,000 live edge epoxy table for a yacht, 11' x 4'7" in months from quote to delivery.

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ROn5XQbSVwY" title="&quot;For $35,000 I'd Expect it to be Perfect&quot;" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I’m framing out a window in my kitchen, which means I get to use one of my favorite tools for accuracy.

It’s a set of dovetail interlocking bars with tips on the end that you can fit together to make expandable measurements.

You simply put together the amount of sections needed, expand it to fill the opening you need to fit something into and then take the bars to your saw, set the stop and cut the board to fit. No taking a numerical reading from a tape and then trying to set your saw to it or remembering it correctly.

This version was made by Bridge City Tools in 1999. They did one run and never made it again. Interestingly an error was made in the length of one or more sets and there is a 4” gap that the set won’t measure in the 40” region!

Several companies make fittings that can go on your shop cut boards to make them expandable.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737478329.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737478370.jpg

Cool!

There are some of the old style folding rulers that have an extendable piece in the first end piece that enables you to do the same thing. I've got an old Craftsman version. It looks like they are still available new too. I see Lufkin, Klein, and Wiha on Amazon.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51K5fBYtQwL.jpg

Veritas makes 2 small tools that once installed on your homemade sticks they allow you to extend the sticks to inside corners and then transfer that measurement to a board or tape.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/veritasbargaugeheads.aspx

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737483668.jpg

Sounds/looks like trammel points without the points.

I've been wanting to get a cnc router for a while now.. for reasons...

Cost of entry put me off... lead times, and impending tariff scares were a concern.. So Facebook Marketplace....

I found a fellow with a machine I was interested in.. for about a third of cost of entry.... He sold it with spare servos, a spare spindle, clamps and hold downs, and a bunch of bits (end mill, ball head cutters, flattening bits....) extra spoil board etc..

And... basically a spare extra machine.. (extrusions, lead screws, etc)

First piece I cranked out... relearning and dusting off my computer drafting skills... I learned AutoCad in the 90's



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749414735.jpg

Very cool!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757519434.jpg
Had a good size Oak die. The inside was totally rotted out so I made use. I used 3' of the big butt to hide an ugly gas meter and made some mirrors out of the smaller diameter hollow "log" further up the tree. Routered the back to recess the glass. I use a diamond blade on my 4½" grinder to make curved cuts in the mirror

Greg and Tim, nice!

I just took down a Black Cherry tree in my yard, that was a small tree when I was a kid..

The pieces are 18-15in dia, 5-7 ft long... If you squint you can see a guitar, and other projects happening after I get the wood milled... Just need to put a new starter in my pickup first..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757522252.jpg


Then Ill use my new CNC router to make sawdust...



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757522325.jpg

Very nice!

The guitar requires some serious squinting, but it's in there!

I've had some stuff come down on my property, and wish I'd cut it up to save. I had a large pin oak branch that would have been a nice new handle for my billhook. And I had a big pecan tree come down that I could/should have cut up and had drying.

Science fiction writers (or even the Popular Science future-gazers) couldn't even dream of the day that CNC routers (and the attendant software) would be accessible to the common man. They missed the boat. (Still waiting for my jet-pack, but this is awesome technology)

I look forward to watching you create beautiful furniture and other art with your new device.

I'm trying to reproduce a relatively simple molding for our home. The old doors have a reverse ogee for door stop molding. I'd like to reproduce it. I asked and some folks said "you can use some old hand planes to reproduce that". I like the idea, and I'm working on it, and getting reasonably close but having a small issue that I think I should be able to solve, but I'm not sure of the best way. I'm curious what you guys think.

I think this may be a bit of an obscure way to go about it, so I'm not really expecting much, but there's always someone that's got DEEP knowledge. And several of you are pretty deep in woodworking.

The molding is ½" thick.

This is what a regular reverse ogee would look like. ½" molding, w/2 90º arcs of ¼" radius circle. I actually have an old wooden plane that cuts this exact profile.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758243759.jpg

But the existing molding in our house is a little different.
It's basically the same, except that it's stretched by 1/4" in the middle. The two ¼" radius arcs are not directly joined. I think these may actually be called "ovolo"s.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758244055.jpg

Some woodworking folks said, "you need a rebate plane and some hollows and rounds and you can cut that. You should check out Matthew Bickford's book 'Mouldings in Practice'."
I got the book and it is great, and does pretty much spell it out-ish.

In the book he basically says "You can cut pretty much any complex molding with a rebate plane, hollows and rounds, and snipe-bills and maybe some side rounds." I made a plan following his theories and have come really close.

His theory is like this. Use a rebate to remove as much material as possible because it's easier to sharpen a flat/straight blade than a curved blade, and the rebate will give you multiple points of reference for the rest of the curves.
Use a rebate to first cut the green rectangle, and that gives me a depth and width of cut for the 2 curves. Use the rebate again to cut the blue rectangle and that gives me the depth to cut the concave curve and 2 points for the round to reference off of.
Then use the rebate to cut the bevel on the lower curve (again, cut as much with a flat blade as possible) and that gives the round 2 points of reference to cut against vs trying to balance it on a single high point.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758244368.jpg

What I ended up with is something like this, with the extra red bit. If I try to get rid of the red bit with the rebate, I have to be super careful or I end up cutting a groove in the concave top portion of the curve. If I use the ¼" radius hollow, it's far too easy to go too far and end up with a wide rounded groove in the middle where it's supposed to mostly be flat. I think maybe a much larger radius round might be a better option, in between the rebate and the small round that I have. And the plan would be to get it close and then either use a homemade scratch stock or sandpaper to finish it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758245043.jpg

Anyone got any thoughts or encouragement or think that I'm nuts or any comments at all? (besides "buy a CNC machine" :D as cool as that would be)

Steve,

Looking at that, I would probably use a 1/4” bullnose on a router table for the inner cut and a 1/4” round over on the outer. The waste area could be removed with a straight bit or a dado blade on a table saw.

I think it would do the job, but of course might take some trial and error to get it down.

thanks

You can get a custom router or shaper bit made. Depending on the amount of material you need to work its not that crazy expensive..

Custom router bits

There are other companies that offer this as well

But where's the fun in that? Making it easy. Pshaw! ;) :D

Would bet there is a millwork somewhere in your area. How many feet of moulding do you need?? Take a sample into them and tell them. If they don't have the cutter they will grind one. Now if you only need a single board then your way works, but volume requires outsourcing. Unless your wife doesn't care when the project is done.

I probably need enough for at least 3-4 doors, so 60-ish feet, probably 18-20' at a time. But I'm not in a hurry as far as this stuff goes. Part of the deal is that I'm wanting to learn how to do it the old way, even if I ultimately resort to the new way to get it done for "production".

I do believe there's a place in Houston that can do this sort of thing.

Put spacers blocks front and behind your cove blade to move it over. If you have the model with the fence, just move the fence out enough to get the blade over the shape you need to cut down. You will still have a small area to sand. You could also use a block plane to knock that down to nearly flat and finish with a scraper cut to your final molding shape.

Look up scratch molding. If you're going 100% carpentry before sandpaper was common, remember that carbon steel and sharpening stones have been around a long time. But, so has sandpaper, it just either wasn't widely available or was too expensive. Or both.

Scrapers have been around since glass was made. Used on wood floors centuries ago. Card scrapers are easy to modify on the bench grinder and touched up with a Dremel.

Yeah, I think I may adjust the cut with the rebate to make the green rectangle to extend that further over, and then finish with a scraper or scratch-stock.

Its kind of weird its so hard to post Facebook content but ...

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1BZdoNEgaP/

I like the way the two large handsaws mimic the artistry of the doors.

That is a stunning piece of furniture.

That's a hell of a thing!

The latest acquisition from the 'bay today.
C.Nurse Round plane No 10.

Made between 1844 (maybe 1841) and 1860.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg

And that's because I can't convince the missus that I "need" a mostly complete half set of hollows and rounds (missing 2 planes, but plus several duplicates) for $375 (which is a pretty good deal).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg

I think this is pretty cool, although I wonder about the long term stability of the bottom of the cuts. Would the wood fibers in the bends at some point down the road decide they wanted to straighten causing the wood to split or crack. Or even worse, what would you have to do to keep the dust out of the splits down at the bottom!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758897671.jpg

That's a good question about cleaning. I would think there would be "technique" involved cleaning the split areas. AFA stability you can always pin that will a glued dowel. Since they rise you could use one dowel above another with the higher one not all the way through.

You can get decorative with brass. You could use all thread and polish the ends. You could put a butterfly in the face.

Otherwise there will be band saw marks on the interior surfaces and awful to clean. They could be sanded but the gulley of each would tell how it was done.

Not cut with a saw and spread, IMO.

Examining that while typing I think the pieces were completely sawn free, milled, bent with steam and glued up having no pressure or tendency to split.

Beautiful side table. Love the way the strips are let into the table top.

I think you could use compressed air to shoot the dust out of the gullies easily enough.

First blush I thought it was ash, but now I'm starting to think it's clear white pine. That would make a fun 2x4 challenge project, if I had joinery skills like that.

Cool thanks. That makes sense. I've noticed several more pieces of furniture posted on FB by the same profile, and in everyone, the background/shop is different. I think all of the stuff posted is AI based, so it's BS (although some are kind of neat like the one I posted above). I'll probably block this profile so I don't have to see any of the AI generated stuff.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758900246.jpg

That's what struck me about it. It might be nice to use contrasting woods for the top vs legs.

The end grain of the splayed pieces does not look like it was sawn from the leg..If it was band sawn, you would think the grain would match more closely.

Your comment had me looking more closely and makes me even more sure that this is a fake AI generated photo.

The grain on the side of the leg looks like a great match, but the end grain is all over the place. It could, I suppose, be real, but I don't think so.

Bridge City Tools made some VERY cool stuff!