green stone? diamond stone?

Green is for carbide.

Gotcha.

I have some new kitchen cabinets coming in a couple weeks. Need to decide on finish. I'd planned to paint, but the cabinets look so pretty I'm re-thinking the possibility of a clear finish. Theory being, I can always change my mind and paint over clear, but clear after paint will be harder.

The cabinets are free-standing furniture construction (built like hefty dressers), solid maple, inset drawers and doors. General concept is for them to look like they could be the original furnishings from 1911.

I'm getting a bunch of the offcut to experiment with finishes.

What do we think about tung oil, maybe with some other clear finish over that?

Tung oil generally doesn't affect color (you can get tinted which would). Tung oil shouldn't be glossy, but should protect the wood.

JYI, if you decide to use a urethane type clear I would recommend trying to find a two component, and make sure you are in well ventilated area. I have used automotive clear with great results, not sure about over tung oil. For most of my wood doors I use Loba 2K supra AT, intended for floors. I have found that the oils from hands destroys the single component urethanes.

I haven't used it but have heard/read that the Loba 2 part stuff is excellent.

Hi guys,

I finished my box in time for our guild show. It looks okay from 5 feet, I made many small mistakes and the finish needs more coats. The mistakes are too numerous and not worth trying to fix, so I will strip the hardware and maybe the ebony edging and trash the box. Frustrating because my procrastination and rushing rather than my skills were what the problem was. I vowed to get started on next years project before this show was even over and I did! Picked out my veneers and cut the sides to rough dimensions while the show was in progress.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715131671.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1715131699.jpg

That looks far too nice to destroy because of mistakes only you can see.

Thanks Scott, but in person they are obvious to anyone- pictures hide them well. To put a positive spin on it, I got a lot of practice and a refresher on procedures.

Dang West, that is some seriously detail work you have going on there. It looks great.

John, if you can get your hands on some Chemcraft, do it. A hardener from them should be added. Waterbase. I know, I know but its damn great stuff. You might need someone with a lic to buy it from a vendor up in OR, we require it here. I have had tremendous luck with it and it is very easy to apply since it is self leveling for the most part. Flat maybe what you are after but I like 30% sheen for ease of cleaning in the kitchen or semi, 50%. They can match any painting company's color into the finish. Must be spray on but self leveling. Forget about tung oil and all that old fashion finishes. Order it tinted to get that old fashion amber look on Maple if you like. Acquaduro 2k Poly. It can applied straight from the can or use a primer for one less coat. I always use their primer and have it tinted. One of my men is trying to teach my old finisher how to use this stuff on my job now. Can't seem to teach or convince an old dog new tricks since he still want to buy the off the shelf clear finish at home centers which is far inferior in every way. Its over 100 bucks a can. Let me know if you want more info.

Please get him books or videos on table saw safety if he doesn't have much experience with it.

Your box looks good from here!
Rush things out of excitement of the moment and regretting it later? Sounds familiar. I think we all learn that the hard way. Now I find myself spending about the same amount time planning and revising plan in my mind as actually physically doing a project.

I'm sorry that you're not happy with it, but it looks fantastic in the photos, for sure. I'm looking forward to what you do for next year.

I sanded the 100 yo floors in our upstairs. They aren't perfect, but they are pretty good. The wife decided that she would stain them since I sanded, and she wanted to share the load with me. She also felt like we HAD to get them finished right away. I gave her some videos to watch. I think she gave them a quick watch and went to work. I had previously suggested "do one of the random closets first and see how it turns out before you do the rest." She got started and I was checking things out in the beginning and made some comments about things that I thought might need to be done differently and was rebuffed.

The next day she went up and was VERY unhappy with the job. Now we're sanding again (this will be much quicker and easier than the first time). Once that's done, we'll stain again. I think she's learned a valuable lesson. She's always on my ass for how long projects take me. I think about them for quite a while before I start, and then I don't finish quickly, but the results are generally good.

Thanks! I will look for that here.

I'm curious. On scrapers with this sort of blade, many/most seem to say that 2 of the edges are for "coarse" scraping and the other two are for "fine" scraping. It's the same blade, so what's the difference between the edges? Is it the angle of the grind or the fineness/smoothness of the grind or...?

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...0-GTL._AC_.jpg

What are you trying to do with that scarper, Steve, remove paint?

I am lazy and found those scrapers do not work so well as they are flimsy at best causes a little vibration making the work not smooth. If for rough scraping like removing paint, We use these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295613328876?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25921 2%26meid%3D65a32c1ab4804b18b7065b7fb4f16751%26pid% 3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D395171319511%26 itm%3D295613328876%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4429 486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda 85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRan kerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWi thCassiniEmbRecallManual%26brand%3DRed%2BDevil&_tr ksid=p4429486.c101875.m1851

They work very well but doesn't always produce the smoothest result. I get after after that with a card scraper or more often, just a utility blade or sand the surface smooth.

One trick I learned over the years, a grinder. Take those scrapers to the grinder and get an edge on there and they will scrape all daylong and sharpening takes about 15 second. I know, I know, most people or purist will jump me on this due to not having to hone it on a stone but for quick work, it works damn well.

We really like this https://www.amazon.com/Kunz-13-107-Glue-Scraper/dp/B000MAUJAE/ref=asc_df_B000MAUJAE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693592674378&hvpos=&hvnetw= g&hvrand=16464953118159593716&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm t=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030984&hv targid=pla-1900685216765&psc=1&mcid=a6e4821b92c03d9a96aa015e0 c3bdb5a&gad_source=1
it works very well and we keep the blade on this sharp. One thing I will say its it is rigid so there's no flex causing it to jump making the scrapped surface rough. worth the money.

I have to drop off the cabinet scraper in the mail. Have it in a box for ya but been too lazy to get to the post office. Sorry.

Take an even pass ( must have steady hands) at the grinder. "Slight "cut is all it needs to create a cutting edge. Try to preserve the medal as the grinder will remove too much material. I suppose it can be done with a file, but i think that's a waste of time.