Its got 12-14 gallons of re$in at 10#/gal plus the wood..

Its probably over 250#

I'm still surprised how well the bottom of the table came out... I was just going to sand until 400 or so then seal it with epoxy...

But I got carried away and wet sanded with 600.800,1000,1200, 1500,2000

This pic is when I finished with 2000, and cleaned it and dried it..


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724429331.jpg

I had wondered about the upside down pic showing the legs. I thought you said that you had to work the bottom to ensure that it looked clear from the top, and that didn't look very clear.

Wow, 2000grit wet sanded! ON THE BOTTOM! Looks really spectacular!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724372160.jpg

Actually, 16 irons, 15, plus one "in the chamber". All but one have a makers mark. It's interesting, the plane is American made (D.R. Barton Rochester NY 1832-1865), but all of the marked irons are British made. Sorby, Marples, John Bull, A Hildick, John Mosley & Son, J Buck, etc...

One of the cool things is that the 4 John Bull irons also have a broad arrow stamped on them, so they were British Army tools at some point.

I've got a 1/2" reverse ogee molding plane on the way so I can make molding for door stops that matches what's in our place where someone has put modern molding in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724373494.jpg

The molding plane should arrive today. I'm stoked.

Initial finish coat on the table, the grain really pops from the resin..

this coat was supposed to be a seal coat, and then I'd go over it again after the resin cures with various grits of sandpaper...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724619925.jpg

However this wood is really thirsty.. I expected it to absorb a lot of resin where the end grain is.. (where the branch is) , but it drank a lot of resin.. I put a fairly heavy uniform coat on, and you can see where the wood just drank it all up..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724620107.jpg

Wow, yeah. I wouldn't have expected resin to soak into wood much, and that looks like a lot. That surprises me. Looking great, though.

I got the molding plane. The profile that it cuts is close, but not quite right. The reverse ogee that it cuts is "square". THe profile is about 1/2" long on 1/2" stock. The molding in the house is closer to .68-.72" long. It seems based on recommendations online that how many folks would make the molding (if they were doing it by hand) would be to use hollow and round planes in conjunction with a rebate plane.

What I want/need
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724621163.jpg

What I got which is close

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724621241.jpg

What I think would be correct.
Ohio Tool Co
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724621280.jpg

What lots of folks are telling me would be a good way to go instead of trying to find a plane with the perfect profile.
Something like this. Apparently, the way to go is to use a rebate plane to give a "round" someplace to cut for the rear curve, and then use a plane to create a bevel on the front nose to give a hollow something to reference off of.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1724621339.jpg

Now I just need to find H&R that are 1/4" radius.

I've got 1/4" Hollow and Round planes on the way. I'm sure it's not the easiest/most efficient way to do it. I'm sure I could buy some router bits to cut the molding, but I'd like to at least learn the old fashioned way.

I've taken large router bits and ground them to the desired shape in the grinder before, then chuck it up on the router table. Also have made my own knives the for the Bell saw to match a defunct crown moulding profile. For one door weatherstrip, your way might be the fastest though

Plus, a new skill and the satisfaction of having made something the "traditional" way.

That's cool. Even though I have a lot of antique tools I'm pretty much over the traditional pre electricity ways. I always go for the power tools. I do grab a Yankee or brace every now and then but only if it happens to have the right diameter bit chucked up already. And I do use various hand saws quite often, sometimes a sharp hand saw is really the correct saw

The end is near..

A bit more sanding, and a few more coats of resin.

This wood is really thirsty, especially thee end grain areas where a branch is..I think I'm up to 15+ gallons of resin on this table ...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1725565871.jpg



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1725565871.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1725565618.jpg

Holy, Moly! That's a LOT of resin!

It looks great!

Need some advice from you wood guys.
Cedar chairs sit on my dock 8 months of the year for the last 10 years.
The wood is rough to the touch, but not rotting in any way.
I want to disassemble and give them a new life.
Belt sander or thickness planer?
(can't upload pics today for some reason)

I'd go with the planer if you can, as you have more control and precision. Sounds like a nice project!

I can pick a used one up for $250.00 and these chairs are that much new each.
Then I have a planer!

Those look like Sunset chairs? (constructed with 1x). I would sand them with an orbital and by hand with 220. Cedar sands easy and fast. At the very least the back rest boards are guaranteed to be slightly warped and you'll end up with ½" thickness at best if run through a planer compromising structural integrity and end up with designer kindling 😃

Great point. If the boards are warped in any way, then getting them flat with a planer is going to require taking off a lot of wood. With a sander (not belt) you can leave the warp, but get the boards smooth. I suspect a belt sander would also remove a lot/too much wood (not as bad as a planer).

Yeap! 15gal @ $125/ gal

This is what the slab looked like before I got into it...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1725637810.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1717624135.jpg

Yes sunset chairs. We call them Muskoka chairs here. These fold up which is really nice for storage.
But then I don't get to buy a thickness planer :( lol
Yes 1" x 3".
I have a palm sander, but could buy an orbital.