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Steve,
Looking at that, I would probably use a 1/4” bullnose on a router table for the inner cut and a 1/4” round over on the outer. The waste area could be removed with a straight bit or a dado blade on a table saw. I think it would do the job, but of course might take some trial and error to get it down. |
thanks
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You can get a custom router or shaper bit made. Depending on the amount of material you need to work its not that crazy expensive..
Custom router bits There are other companies that offer this as well |
But where's the fun in that? Making it easy. Pshaw! ;) :D
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Would bet there is a millwork somewhere in your area. How many feet of moulding do you need?? Take a sample into them and tell them. If they don't have the cutter they will grind one. Now if you only need a single board then your way works, but volume requires outsourcing. Unless your wife doesn't care when the project is done.
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I probably need enough for at least 3-4 doors, so 60-ish feet, probably 18-20' at a time. But I'm not in a hurry as far as this stuff goes. Part of the deal is that I'm wanting to learn how to do it the old way, even if I ultimately resort to the new way to get it done for "production".
I do believe there's a place in Houston that can do this sort of thing. |
Put spacers blocks front and behind your cove blade to move it over. If you have the model with the fence, just move the fence out enough to get the blade over the shape you need to cut down. You will still have a small area to sand. You could also use a block plane to knock that down to nearly flat and finish with a scraper cut to your final molding shape.
Look up scratch molding. If you're going 100% carpentry before sandpaper was common, remember that carbon steel and sharpening stones have been around a long time. But, so has sandpaper, it just either wasn't widely available or was too expensive. Or both. Scrapers have been around since glass was made. Used on wood floors centuries ago. Card scrapers are easy to modify on the bench grinder and touched up with a Dremel. |
Yeah, I think I may adjust the cut with the rebate to make the green rectangle to extend that further over, and then finish with a scraper or scratch-stock.
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Its kind of weird its so hard to post Facebook content but ...
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1BZdoNEgaP/ |
I like the way the two large handsaws mimic the artistry of the doors.
That is a stunning piece of furniture. |
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The latest acquisition from the 'bay today.
C.Nurse Round plane No 10. Made between 1844 (maybe 1841) and 1860. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg And that's because I can't convince the missus that I "need" a mostly complete half set of hollows and rounds (missing 2 planes, but plus several duplicates) for $375 (which is a pretty good deal). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758756737.jpg |
I think this is pretty cool, although I wonder about the long term stability of the bottom of the cuts. Would the wood fibers in the bends at some point down the road decide they wanted to straighten causing the wood to split or crack. Or even worse, what would you have to do to keep the dust out of the splits down at the bottom!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758897671.jpg |
That's a good question about cleaning. I would think there would be "technique" involved cleaning the split areas. AFA stability you can always pin that will a glued dowel. Since they rise you could use one dowel above another with the higher one not all the way through.
You can get decorative with brass. You could use all thread and polish the ends. You could put a butterfly in the face. Otherwise there will be band saw marks on the interior surfaces and awful to clean. They could be sanded but the gulley of each would tell how it was done. Not cut with a saw and spread, IMO. Examining that while typing I think the pieces were completely sawn free, milled, bent with steam and glued up having no pressure or tendency to split. |
Beautiful side table. Love the way the strips are let into the table top.
I think you could use compressed air to shoot the dust out of the gullies easily enough. First blush I thought it was ash, but now I'm starting to think it's clear white pine. That would make a fun 2x4 challenge project, if I had joinery skills like that. |
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The end grain of the splayed pieces does not look like it was sawn from the leg..If it was band sawn, you would think the grain would match more closely.
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The grain on the side of the leg looks like a great match, but the end grain is all over the place. It could, I suppose, be real, but I don't think so. |
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