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The two chairs closest to the camera are blue....They only appear blue in natural light, so its very hard to tell that they are blue.. pivot... Every time I pick up one or two of my guitars I am amazed by the inlays.. especially on my'78 Ibanez Artist Also Ii have seen probably a dozen of these guitars and every one is slightly different (different luthiers) Ibanez http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731959650.jpg My PRS 9 different birds inlayed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731959726.jpg |
Was at the shop earlier and had my latest piece flattened prior to applying finish coats..
<iframe width="507" height="901" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KIHVrfoXg5Q" title="Flattening spalted maple" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe> This piece of maple has some really cool things going on with decay and figuring in the wood http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731963845.jpg |
Pretty cool to see
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xtD8GL9iFW8" title="Making a Violin with HAND TOOLS: Commandeering Strad's Titian" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
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I got my Great Grandfather’s tool box open, lots of penetrating oil, move a little bit at a time, soak some more. Finally, very carefully opened it, making sure not to damage the fragile wood. Mostly old glass bottles wrapped in paper, at least so far.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732646155.jpg |
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$35,000 live edge epoxy table for a yacht, 11' x 4'7" in months from quote to delivery.
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ROn5XQbSVwY" title=""For $35,000 I'd Expect it to be Perfect"" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
I’m framing out a window in my kitchen, which means I get to use one of my favorite tools for accuracy.
It’s a set of dovetail interlocking bars with tips on the end that you can fit together to make expandable measurements. You simply put together the amount of sections needed, expand it to fill the opening you need to fit something into and then take the bars to your saw, set the stop and cut the board to fit. No taking a numerical reading from a tape and then trying to set your saw to it or remembering it correctly. This version was made by Bridge City Tools in 1999. They did one run and never made it again. Interestingly an error was made in the length of one or more sets and there is a 4” gap that the set won’t measure in the 40” region! Several companies make fittings that can go on your shop cut boards to make them expandable. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737478329.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737478370.jpg |
Cool!
There are some of the old style folding rulers that have an extendable piece in the first end piece that enables you to do the same thing. I've got an old Craftsman version. It looks like they are still available new too. I see Lufkin, Klein, and Wiha on Amazon. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51K5fBYtQwL.jpg |
Veritas makes 2 small tools that once installed on your homemade sticks they allow you to extend the sticks to inside corners and then transfer that measurement to a board or tape.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/veritasbargaugeheads.aspx http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1737483668.jpg |
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I've been wanting to get a cnc router for a while now.. for reasons...
Cost of entry put me off... lead times, and impending tariff scares were a concern.. So Facebook Marketplace.... I found a fellow with a machine I was interested in.. for about a third of cost of entry.... He sold it with spare servos, a spare spindle, clamps and hold downs, and a bunch of bits (end mill, ball head cutters, flattening bits....) extra spoil board etc.. And... basically a spare extra machine.. (extrusions, lead screws, etc) First piece I cranked out... relearning and dusting off my computer drafting skills... I learned AutoCad in the 90's http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749414735.jpg |
Very cool!
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757519434.jpg
Had a good size Oak die. The inside was totally rotted out so I made use. I used 3' of the big butt to hide an ugly gas meter and made some mirrors out of the smaller diameter hollow "log" further up the tree. Routered the back to recess the glass. I use a diamond blade on my 4½" grinder to make curved cuts in the mirror |
Greg and Tim, nice!
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I just took down a Black Cherry tree in my yard, that was a small tree when I was a kid..
The pieces are 18-15in dia, 5-7 ft long... If you squint you can see a guitar, and other projects happening after I get the wood milled... Just need to put a new starter in my pickup first.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757522252.jpg Then Ill use my new CNC router to make sawdust... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757522325.jpg |
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I've had some stuff come down on my property, and wish I'd cut it up to save. I had a large pin oak branch that would have been a nice new handle for my billhook. And I had a big pecan tree come down that I could/should have cut up and had drying. |
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I look forward to watching you create beautiful furniture and other art with your new device. |
I'm trying to reproduce a relatively simple molding for our home. The old doors have a reverse ogee for door stop molding. I'd like to reproduce it. I asked and some folks said "you can use some old hand planes to reproduce that". I like the idea, and I'm working on it, and getting reasonably close but having a small issue that I think I should be able to solve, but I'm not sure of the best way. I'm curious what you guys think.
I think this may be a bit of an obscure way to go about it, so I'm not really expecting much, but there's always someone that's got DEEP knowledge. And several of you are pretty deep in woodworking. The molding is ½" thick. This is what a regular reverse ogee would look like. ½" molding, w/2 90º arcs of ¼" radius circle. I actually have an old wooden plane that cuts this exact profile. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758243759.jpg But the existing molding in our house is a little different. It's basically the same, except that it's stretched by 1/4" in the middle. The two ¼" radius arcs are not directly joined. I think these may actually be called "ovolo"s. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758244055.jpg Some woodworking folks said, "you need a rebate plane and some hollows and rounds and you can cut that. You should check out Matthew Bickford's book 'Mouldings in Practice'." I got the book and it is great, and does pretty much spell it out-ish. In the book he basically says "You can cut pretty much any complex molding with a rebate plane, hollows and rounds, and snipe-bills and maybe some side rounds." I made a plan following his theories and have come really close. His theory is like this. Use a rebate to remove as much material as possible because it's easier to sharpen a flat/straight blade than a curved blade, and the rebate will give you multiple points of reference for the rest of the curves. Use a rebate to first cut the green rectangle, and that gives me a depth and width of cut for the 2 curves. Use the rebate again to cut the blue rectangle and that gives me the depth to cut the concave curve and 2 points for the round to reference off of. Then use the rebate to cut the bevel on the lower curve (again, cut as much with a flat blade as possible) and that gives the round 2 points of reference to cut against vs trying to balance it on a single high point. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758244368.jpg What I ended up with is something like this, with the extra red bit. If I try to get rid of the red bit with the rebate, I have to be super careful or I end up cutting a groove in the concave top portion of the curve. If I use the ¼" radius hollow, it's far too easy to go too far and end up with a wide rounded groove in the middle where it's supposed to mostly be flat. I think maybe a much larger radius round might be a better option, in between the rebate and the small round that I have. And the plan would be to get it close and then either use a homemade scratch stock or sandpaper to finish it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758245043.jpg Anyone got any thoughts or encouragement or think that I'm nuts or any comments at all? (besides "buy a CNC machine" :D as cool as that would be) |
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