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Best camera for nature photography?
Reasonably priced, though I wouldn't mind hearing about various levels of crazy in this field. I know that I should join a photography forum and maybe I will but I just have a feeling that there is someone here who really knows this stuff. I'm a complete newbie.
I'm thinking something SLR w/ some lens recommendations for vistas, shooting clouds, etc. My iPhone takes good up-close photos but lacks on the wide vistas, etc. New hobby, thanks. :) |
nature like landscapes; any wildlife? you'll need a tele for most wildlife shots
from a car or backpacking, climbing? then there's budget Nikon D750 will do a great job and can take the 400 different vintage (used) Nikkor lenses out there from early 1960s-on and Nikon made a lens for every problem; D600/610 is cheaper full frame body but has poor AF in low light for medium format Mamiya digital seems to get a lot of attn. for light wt. get Olympia or Panasonic m43 body plus lenses - if the dynamic range of the scene is too great you can stack different images to create a single one - AND you can do it in camera the Oly Pro lenses are outstanding as are the Leica/Lumix ones from Panasonic - the lenses from one brand will work on the other brand m43 is a mirrorless design DSLRs are on the way out and still hang on for edge cases, like pro sports Nikon has a mirrorless system, Z-system Canon has its devotees, as does Fuji - you need to try various ones out to see how you like the ergonomics, menu system etc. any friends with quality digital cameras? ask if you can go with them sometime the little pocket cameras have been pretty much wiped out by phones, the above are systems/brands that will hold on for years |
There are terrific systems out at all different levels, by many different manufacturers.
I like to engineer backwards. What are you going to do with your images? Posting on facebook/ internet can use different equipment than printing 40x60" images to hang in a gallery. (I do both.) Reasonably priced- you need to understand you get what you pay for, and you really need to know your needs. I have lenses that go from $250 to $12,000. Newbie, don't overbuy. Post processing is another topic, and will be just as important or maybe more important than the camera system. There are no bad systems out there. I would go with sony, nikon, canon in no particular order. If you can find an actual brick and mortor camera store- go visit. Handle the equipment, ask questions. If you are looking for a online forum, I would recommend nikon cafe. Great group of guys/gals. gary |
There are books written on this subject.
But, a friend me mine just wrote a book on birds. Her photos were in the book. She has a mid range DSLR and a very long lens. Pics look great. |
There are many here who are experts on cameras and photography. Scott Douglas, and others, have helped me a lot.
Nikon D7200. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621210259.jpg |
If you have a friend with a whole lot of lenses, go with a camera that you can borrow them for.
You'll be fine with the main brands. What's great about Nikon and Canon is they are nice and popular and if you are looking for a certain lense there is bound to be one available second hand or on sale. |
Denis - The best advice I can give you, a raw beginner, is go out and find a camera shop that has a wide variety of cameras you can handle. It might pay to set a budget first so you don't fall for one that isn't within the restrictions of said budget.
After that, come back and ask for +'s and -'s of said camera. We all have our biases here so take that with a grain of salt. My bias switched from Nikon to Sony with the advent of me inheriting a Leica M3 and wanting to use the lenses on a digital body since I don't shoot film due to budget constraints. Nikon Cafe is a good Nikon site. Talkemount is a good Sony site owned by the same fella that owns Nikon Cafe. I hang out there a lot when I'm not here. Good luck on your journey and keep the questions coming. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621221922.JPG |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621222747.JPG
A wildlife shot taken with my Sony. |
I'm one of those with a bias, so I think I'm just going to suggest you look for a camera dealer locally, who sells used cameras with a warranty. You can literally shoot with these cameras (don't know about the Covid thing though) before you buy them. That will give you a huge head start in finding out how they lay out the menus, buttons, and the like.
I also agree that mirrorless is the way to go. You might also consider "street photography" or candid portraits. I think the reward is much much faster for a beginner. |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621228345.jpg
I need to get a "faster" tripod, if that makes sense. I'm also a newbie. Experimenting with aperture priority. It's still a bit hit or miss. And nothing like the pressure of trying to get a shot live. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621228377.jpg Manual mode. I love manual mode. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621228734.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621228734.jpg |
It is a question much like asking what is the best car for my needs.
The budget will all depend on your level of photography. The pro all have pro level equipment for a legitimate reason. If you need a extreme lens, you are going to need a Nikon or Cannon. One the other end, a camera that is so complex and bulky that you never take it with you is worthless to you. I took my real Cannon camera with me for a track day, and never took it out of the case. I just used my iPhone and I alwys have that with me. So if you want to photograph true wild animals in the wild, you will need a long lens, and sturdy monopod. If you are shooting insects you need an entirely different system. |
Whatever you get, make sure there is good glass for it. My wife has a Rebel T3i and it does fine for what she uses it for. With better glass these would be better. the 300 doesn' have image stabalization so it could be crisper.
This was a point-n-shoot camera compared to hers with just a 300mm lens. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621267310.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621267310.JPG Or a teensy little crab with the standard lens. She also has macro lenses and you can see the pollen grains if you want. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621267310.JPG A moose at a couple hundred yards. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621267789.JPG |
Canon 5D mark III 50mm 2.0 ISO 100 1/350 aperture priority RAW Canon speedlight470ex slave controlled savage 500w light umbrellas.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621269485.jpg |
I went mirrorless last year. So much lighter to carry. I ended up with a Canon M50 for video. I have an older Canon DSLR and with an adapter I can use the older lenses. Auto focus works too.
So if you have any old gear, you might look into what can be used with the new unit. |
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Instead of SLR, I'd look at mirrorless, especially if I were just starting out. I'd also be looking at compatibility with existing (heritage) lenses. Then I'd look at battery life, then nuanced performance stats after that.
Or you can do as I did, start with a hobbiest kit SLR (D90 at the time), and then add more lenses (24mm, 50mm, 70-200, 16-35) and flash, and tripod, then upgrade the body (D4), and additional batteries, cards, bags, lights, reflectors. . . all to end up having to lug 20lb of junk with you to the vintage races and hiking. 99% of the time, I just bring my phone now. |
DSLR is a bit heavier, but allows you to easily use the used lenses on the market. I dunno your budget...
Nikon's mirrorless bodies can be fitted with an adapter to use their old lenses. Old Lenses Matter (OLM) because they have some special rendering - sure it's distortion, but it can look great. Agree with camera shop idea above or you could rent. Or take your best shot then switch later and sell or give away the old gear. |
It's like tools, start with something affordable, decent and covers a lot of bases, and if you find yourself maxing out the capability then upgrade.
I'd recommend something like the $296 Canon EOS T100 kit with 18-55mm lens. If you can't learn to take some nice pics with that a $5000 setup won't do anything for you. Lots of fun lenses for the EF-S mount and if you want to get a better body later such as a 90D those lenses will work. |
I love landscapes. My go to camera has been a Leica M10 for a number of years AND my go to lens is a 21 mm wide angle for landscapes. I also do a tremendous amount of still life. For that I use a Canon 5d Mk IV and lean heavily on my 100mm macro.
I have not done wildlife photography in many years. Wildlife, as others have pointed out, would be a completely different kit (lens wise). For the past two years I have been taking advanced photo classes at my local JC, Moorpark College. I have learned a tremendous amount about all aspects of photography. I recently upgraded to a Leica Q2, and I love that thing. It is a perfect camera for all that I do. BUT I cannot see it as a viable wildlife set up. IMHO and from hanging with some very talented artists, I think we are seeing two major trends. One is film, especially for the younger artists, they love it! The other is the mirrorless. Mirrorless is really gaining momentum and the gear is fantastic. Lightweight, tough, easy to use. Since you don't have any lenses you can invest in the best for the particular platform. And you have the option of using adapters to use older (but very good) gear. I was impressed with the Canon R system. The Canon RP would be a great start based upon features and price (especially price). It would be an excellent entry level camera that is the latest proven technology. I like that thing, but am invested in a traditional Canon 5D Mk iv. |
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I don't stay up to speed on cameras anymore, so I don't know what the latest stuff is to recommend. If you can identify what you want to shoot and what you intend doing with the shots, that will narrow the field.
- are you thinking landscape photography? Usually wide angle stuff. - are you thinking wildlife? Usually zoom stuff. Speed matters. - street photography? Wide to mild zoom, low light sometimes. - do you want to put some time in processing the images? Maybe shoot RAW? - what do you want to do with the images? Post them online, or make prints? You can see some different styles on this forum I used to go to: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ Your budget will also narrow the field. I'd suggest get something new on closeout or used for 30-40% off. You'll likely get started before realizing what you need and want to do, so being able to sell the gear for a minimal loss is helpful. When I stopped being a hobbyist I had (still have) a D300 with my go-to 17-55mm. That covers 80% of what I need and the output is great. I've got a full on Contax G2 kit, which is spectacular with film, but it's more hassle and expense to shoot, and there's no post processing to be done unless you get super serious in a darkroom. |
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Getting an education about which camera to buy should include looking at this site, IMO: https://www.dpreview.com/
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Best camera for nature photography?
That's like asking what is the best tool for gardening. |
Very nice photos, Dan. I appreciate the responses.
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A big part of my interest is shooting clouds, my cloud storage is truly cloud storage, it's filled up with pictures of clouds from various road trips. Maybe the term *nature photography* was even wrong...more like vistas and mountains? These are a few I've taken with my iPhone, I think that I can conservatively say that I have hundreds of pictures of clouds: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621320305.jpg |
Unless you are going to routinely print larger than about 8x10”, a big fancy camera is not going to do a whole lot better at cloud photography than a properly used cell phone.
Post processing is a huge component of digital imaging, and will make a LOT more difference than what type of camera you use. That is a whole different skill set, and takes time to learn as well. Even cell phone images can be markedly improved with the correct post processing using programs like adobe photoshop. If you are satisfied with cloud pictures taken through the windshield while driving down the road at 50 mph, a fancy camera is really not going to do a lot better. It will also not be as accessible. And this is coming from a guy with a lot of gear. It would be like buying a complete set of snap on tools because you want to change your own oil. The right tool for the right job, but enough is as good as a feast. Gary |
I have cameras around here that I don't use that I'm planning to sell. PM me your budget and I'll send you a list.
I have a full frame Nikon that I use when I'm shooting something special, but I'm getting a tripod for my iPhone because it is good enough for most things I shoot these days. Gary is right about the cell phones and processing. Having said that, these were all shot with my 610 and various lenses. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg I have a big, fast lens but it is so heavy I seldom use it. This, and most of the photos here, was shot with a basic 70-300 zoom lens. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg I spent a year going out and shooting this old silo when the sky behind was interesting. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg This crumbling old mansion is a few miles from home. I caught it one morning when there was a mist of fog on the ground. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621342582.jpg |
And if you want close up stuff, a macro lens will help. Pelican shrinks these down but you get the idea. Again, this is an inexpensive body and lenses.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621353454.jpg |
The thing that drew me to Sony mirrorless camera's was that I could adapt so many different lenses to it. So far, I've adapted Leica, Minolta and Nikon lenses to my cameras with nothing more than some fairly inexpensive adapters. Being able to use the lenses at their 'native' focal length is what moved me to get a full frame camera.
The animal eye auto focus is something else on the latest Sony's. Look at the bird forum photos on Talkemount and you'll see some amazing shots. |
I think you can probably just start by watching some YouTube videos on photo composition, and maybe try a free version of Lightroom. See if it makes a difference in your photos and sparks some sort of desire to expand the hobby. Because that's when it can get expensive. I don't think it makes much sense to start "at the beginning" with classes. It sounds like you might want to just refine what you're already doing.
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I had a bunch of basic videos saved on the subject, but the Microsoft/ Google axis of evil has me signed out and I can't find my favorites anymore. Peter McKinnon, Adorama, et. al. have so many great videos. You can learn so much in a week, it's ridiculous now. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3eVjUrY9a9c" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
Ultimately it gets down to which camera feels good in your hands and you're willing to learn how to use.
A camera that doesn't feel good in your hands will never be used as much as one that does. If a camera is too complicated for you to tolerate, it will never be used. Finding the balance between these factors will get you a camera you'll wear out from use. |
you don't need a class - just start with it set to "P" then branch out to A or S
for clouds tho, you will have an issue with Dynamic Range (DR) - bright to dark in the same scene you either get a full frame (FF) of some brand or you exposure stack if you get m43 sensors based bodies - and MOST LIKELY you'll need to exposure stack on a full frame body - the DR is just so great Here's how it works out - the smaller the sensor the smaller the lenses can be - matters the most with big telephoto for wildlife or sports - but noise goes up (see the big print comment above) - and DR goes down - maybe a full stop from FF to m43; when DR in the scene exceeds what the sensor can handle you get brownout highs - and there is just no info for any software to recover in post-processing Here's the sensor size list: Medium Format - Hasselblad, Mamiya - I suggest you don't get this; they are big, heavy and expensive but the big sensor gives you the best DR; Hassy XCD is worth a look if you want to spend the $$ FF - Nikon, Canon, Sony, etc. - Nikon gives the best access to many, many old lenses; & gets the most out of their sensors; Canon is preferred by many other people; Sony is the tech leader APS-C - Nikon calls this DX; I say skip this sensor size m43 - see above post on the 2 main co.s using this size - the critical thing for your cloud photos is you can exposure stack right in the camera, so no need to buy a post-processing software program 1" sensors - Nikon One system, which they abandoned, screwing over people who bought in - dunno if anyone else makes them 2/3 or 3/4 inch sensors - the (former) realm of compact cameras like Canon S95, etc. - nor dead from cell phones, RIP even tinier sensors - these are used in smart phones- Apple etc. have tons of processing to make the images from these tiny systems look good; often better than 'real' cameras So, you want a camera that is worth carrying around besides a smartphone. That means m43 or FF system, or maybe medium format. the above is your bottom line unless... unless you are a crazy person and buy a b view camera and scan the negs on a drum scanner - this has the same advantages as buying a Ferrari: you have found a hole to dump stacks of cash into and it is esthetic to boot so focus on the FF or m43 systems and then follow Scott Douglas's advice and others who said ergonomics rules |
Best camera threads are like “best oil” threads. Lots of in-the-weeds jargon and technical stuff, no consensus.
Use a phone, shoot what you like. Chances are you’ll be plenty happy, but post your pics here and let us know what you do/don’t like about them. We can work up from there. |
Speeder only needs to spend a few hundred dollars to dabble in it and get MUCH better results, especially if he can process RAW images (or bracket the same exposure) and use a tripod.
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-.../i-2BrnX6r.jpg |
^ You can't put a polarized filter on a smartphone. Or any type of filter for that matter.
And you're very limited with what you can do with the flash. I say start with Adobe Lightroom, or even Photoshop. Learn how to use that and go through old photos. Some of the cloud photos above could have benefitted from a flash inside the car. Probably a lower ISO setting would make the sun setting look more interesting, say an orange dot, provided the car was stopped, with a longer exposure or slower shutter speed would look very interesting. |
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3D printed them up and viola. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1621398874.JPG It's been handy over the years. (it turns with a roll of a thumb on the edge.) |
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