Pulling 2017 civic Rear wheel bearing

[afterburn 549]

I wired wheeled the inside hole (bore) for the bearing.
I had to be careful as the wheel sensor was no better at coming out than the rest of it, so I worked carefully around the thing..
I cleaned the bore up all shiny, spic and span.
Even razor-bladed some of the crusty crud.
Antisiezed the bolts, and stuck them through from the back side and started them all a couple of turns. Making sure all was lined up, and not wanting to have to try to rotate the bearing in its home.
Well, it was no problem.
With all the crud off and all cleaned up, it was a loose press fit, and I could have rotated if I had to.
All bolted in!

[LEAKYSEALS951]

^Nice work.
I was thinking to myself last weekend, as I smacked at my own wheelbearing, - any project that has more rust encrusted on it than the HL Hunley- it's probably gonna be a real B#$% project.

[afterburn 549]

Thanx!
Yes, salt is nasty!
How many miles are you seeing on these bearings?
We got 235K out of this bearing.
We paid extra and got another one from Honda as I learned my lesson over the years.
Over-the-counter and Amazon bearings go about 20K and they need it all done again.
Thas way too much practice for me !
Even Honda online, I don't think is real as the same problem happened in our other Honda cars

[stevej37]

I had my 98 Prelude for only a year in 99 when I slid the rear end into a curb hard on an icy road. The right rear wheel took most of the damage, but I didn't see anything else hurt. I drove it another five years before on a trip to FL it started making the bearing sound loud. I found a Honda Dealer In SC and they fixed it.
He said the other three looked like new, but this one was in bad shape.

I now have about another 100K miles on it and the other three are all original yet.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

Thanx!
Yes, salt is nasty!
How many miles are you seeing on these bearings?
We got 235K out of this bearing.
We paid extra and got another one from Honda as I learned my lesson over the years.
Over-the-counter and Amazon bearings go about 20K and they need it all done again.
Thas way too much practice for me !
Even Honda online, I don't think is real as the same problem happened in our other Honda cars

Interesting.
The bearing I replaced, was, the bearing I replaced.
My wife hit a deer in about 2015 with this wheel/bearing).
In 2019, it went kaput.
I replaced it with something aftermarket.
It went bad again recently.
Even with my copious neverfreeze stuff- it froze- and went bad again.

I spent $30 for a new one. Added even more silver glop.
When it gives up again- assuming my daughter turns 16 and doesn't wreck it, I will go OEM . My air chisel will be ready. Last weekend's work was 50 minutes- even so- Amazon crap is crap. Especially when the delivery dates are a bogus fabrication of bs.

In a gratuitous thankyou to pelican - They dont sell mitsibushi (at least I didn't think so)....so I bought bezos-but.
PS- I bought something for my volvo from pelican- so thanks pelican for selling something quality!

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by Otter74

I am old enough that when I hit a wall like this I often decide that I have better things to do with my time and pay someone else to do it.

I am overhauling my main commuter bicycle and the bottom bracket was shot. No problem, I have a replacement and they're not hard to get out. LOL, not this one! Elevated things to my rattle gun (after penetrant, breaker bar with cheater, etc.) and the fixed cup wasn't budging. Gave up and took it to my LBS. It took *them* hours to get it out, requiring making a little bag around the bottom bracket area and submerging the whole area in penetrant overnight, *then* persistence with lots of torque. It was well worth the $100 or whatever I paid them. They're a great shop, I'll pay them for their actual time.

There's a tool for that. the two parts of this pinch the cup, and then you can use a breaker bar or a rattle gun to get the cup out. Of course, the tool costs 75 bucks or so...

[afterburn 549]

I have never had an OEM Honda bearing fail B4 150K .
Even in this salted slush.
As said, I have learned the hard way, Buy OEM and leave the cheap stuff for those who like doing this a lot.
Herr_oberst
I do not see or understand how that tool would help .( if we are talking about the same bearing I am.)

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

Herr_oberst
I do not see or understand how that tool would help .( if we are talking about the same bearing I am.)

[911 Rod]

I enjoy working on my 911's and all the parts are clean and come off easily.
I hate working on the DD's!

[afterburn 549]

Unfortunately, most of us need a DD.
My 911 never saw the salt either.
Neither will my latest flame. 2024 Gr supra (BMW in disguise) it goes along with that song.

[Otter74]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

There's a tool for that. the two parts of this pinch the cup, and then you can use a breaker bar or a rattle gun to get the cup out. Of course, the tool costs 75 bucks or so...

Interesting - never seen that. Do you have a link to it? I can’t really visualize how it works from the photo. At any rate, my LBS are pros. It was the overnight soak in a penetrant bath that was crucial. We wanted to avoid heat to avoid damaging the finish on the frame.

[afterburn 549]

I don't understand its function either.^^
But
The good news is,, whilest I am all trained up,. The other bearing is on its way out, too!
I went to the store, and bought more special tooling for the next pull.
I will post a pic in the next day or so when I get to it if it works better.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

I don't understand its function either.^^

In post #40 Otter74 said he was having trouble with his commuter bicycle and a part would not come out. herr-oberst recommended this tool to remove the part but no one mentioned again it was for a bicycle.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Having lived in the south since 76, I can’t imagine working on rust belt cars.

It SUCKS!!

[afterburn 549]

OH !
okiedokie
I have some split drivers here that work really well for some races that are recessed
Insert 1/2 at a time, and a driver can remove them.

[afterburn 549]

This turned out to be a better way.
3, 7/16 grade bolts (rather than 1/2 studs) about 1 3/4 ; long,
Clocked at 3 positions (with wheel studs knocked out)
I had to cut a 1/4 inch off the bolts to get them to come in from behind. They were two inches long to start, if I remember correctly.
You must choose holes carefully as some will have nothing behind to push against.
The dust cover will not come off until the bearing is out, so that's a smallish problem (I pressed against it and ruined its factory appearance in a couple of places)
The washers are there for a load-bearing surface so the nuts will not bind too much.
It's all EZ once one figures it all out.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

The boss corrosion and especially the depth of that boss tells the story. (It looks like a little step is in there but the corrosion looks really embedded)

Holy smokes. Good job!!



Bob's sidebar:

I'm just going to leave this here since I'm doing a front bearing now on a 2008 Grand Cherokee. (For the love of God)

Advance Auto - Moog 513234 - $267.99

Rock Auto Moog 513234 - $67.79

[afterburn 549]

^^ ThanX
It has been my exp wheel bearings from amazon, ebay, honda online do not last very long. About 20K.
The last couple of years, I've gone to the dealer and paid the Big Bucks, but so far, they are lasting.
These for this Honda are much cheaper at the counterfeit stores.
Honda soaked me 200 bucks and I BOUGHT the car there!
My next car will be another Toyota .
At a glance on the web they can be had for 66 bucks.
BUT
I don't like doing the job sooner than I have to.
Foer sure I am hoping to get another 235K out of these new ones.

[fastfredracing]

Ill see your Honda wheel bearing and raise you a 335 I X drive , front struts, and axle shaft .



The last pic is the other side I managed to remove yesterday . Took me well over an hour to burn slits in it then chisel it off, without destroying the hub or axle shaft .
This guy is a smug tool also . Always argumentative and wants to show me how easy it is by the you tube video he watched . I explained to him how I always remove them, and he goes on and on about how the other guy did it, and does not like my method . Maybe you tube guy will fix it for him
The only thing we are viewing together is the large invoice I am writing

[Arizona_928]

Even idiots post diy videos on lubeTube.

My favorite was the guys that do 6.7 Cummins injectors. Removed too many extra parts and messed with the valve lash… just pull the rocker assemblies and move on with life.

Anyways. Carry on.