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-   -   What size Air stapler ? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=1181408)

look 171 08-10-2025 05:57 PM

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Crown-Stapler-Tool-Only-2447-20/302652845?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&gQT=1

Get this and be done with it if you are stilling thinking on batt insulation. That Milwaukee or their own Rigid brand will work. It will save you a lot of cussing.

A930Rocket 08-11-2025 02:56 AM

^^^ That and a couple of batteries.

I was thinking they were bigger in my earlier response.

cabmandone 08-11-2025 03:33 AM

Have you considered saving some time and just having the attic area encapsulated with foam? It's a thing I guess.

zakthor 08-11-2025 05:01 AM

Rigid foam/encapsulation.

Not a lot of height I don’t want to pull the ceiling down 3”. I went through a whole thing where I planned out encapsulating but here it needs at least r48 to avoid condensation and it’s got to be perfect or you’ll get rot. House has survived this long, I don’t want to mess with a good thing. There’s soffit vents and a ridge vent, before I add insulation I’m running the channels up against the roof.

I’m sticking with the mediocre fiberglass because it’s easy to install and good enough. Highest monthly bill is $155, average month is like $35 so there’s no savings to be had. I just, me, personally, don’t want the attic left uninsulated and the batts are falling down after all the bumping from getting a new roof..

I’m not keen on battery tools. I do own a little m12 clutched screw driver and I use it all the time but… I tried using it for doing joist hangers with Simpson screws and life was too short. my little battery isn’t going to run a stapler very long and I need to drive over 1000 staples. Suddenly it’s another $100 for another battery.

Looks like my best choice is a pneumatic t50, they’re like $40-60 and I can up the power if I need to. Question is if the cheap things will jam. If it jams more than a little I don’t want it.

Thanks all seems like 3/8” wide t50 will be great at 1/4” deep for the fiberglass, and 1/2 deep for the channels.

cabmandone 08-11-2025 07:41 AM

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? You'll put at best R15 in the rafters if you're working with an old 2x4. R19 to R21 for an old 2x6. Why not put the baffles in the rafters, rent a blower from HD or Lowes and blow in fiberglass to an R40 value? You only need the baffles to extend above the blown insulation.

Can you post a pic of what you're working on?

look 171 08-11-2025 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zakthor (Post 12512946)
Rigid foam/encapsulation.

Not a lot of height I don’t want to pull the ceiling down 3”. I went through a whole thing where I planned out encapsulating but here it needs at least r48 to avoid condensation and it’s got to be perfect or you’ll get rot. House has survived this long, I don’t want to mess with a good thing. There’s soffit vents and a ridge vent, before I add insulation I’m running the channels up against the roof.


I’m sticking with the mediocre fiberglass because it’s easy to install and good enough. Highest monthly bill is $155, average month is like $35 so there’s no savings to be had. I just, me, personally, don’t want the attic left uninsulated and the batts are falling down after all the bumping from getting a new roof..

I’m not keen on battery tools. I do own a little m12 clutched screw driver and I use it all the time but… I tried using it for doing joist hangers with Simpson screws and life was too short. my little battery isn’t going to run a stapler very long and I need to drive over 1000 staples. Suddenly it’s another $100 for another battery.

Looks like my best choice is a pneumatic t50, they’re like $40-60 and I can up the power if I need to. Question is if the cheap things will jam. If it jams more than a little I don’t want it.

Thanks all seems like 3/8” wide t50 will be great at 1/4” deep for the fiberglass, and 1/2 deep for the channels.

Cut them, to fit between the rafter bay so its flush not on the underside of the rafter. I would cut some of them a little short of the rafter length, leave room for the vent to allow fresh air in. No channels, no mess and restruction. Air will flow just fine and find its way out the ridge vent. Its designed to do that.

A930Rocket 08-11-2025 03:13 PM

OK, I’m confused. What are the channels?

Are they the Styrofoam baffles, that allow air to move from the soffits to the ridge?

Then the insulation goes on top, between the rafters.

At a minimum, you’re going to want to do something at the soffits, to allow air to flow

You can buy a M12 Milwaukee battery on Amazon for $28 or four knockoffs for $40. I have two and they work just as well as the originals.

https://a.co/d/adg1Kg5

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754953984.jpg

zakthor 08-11-2025 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cabmandone (Post 12513026)
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? You'll put at best R15 in the rafters if you're working with an old 2x4. R19 to R21 for an old 2x6. Why not put the baffles in the rafters, rent a blower from HD or Lowes and blow in fiberglass to an R40 value? You only need the baffles to extend above the blown insulation.

Can you post a pic of what you're working on?

Just want to get something up there with a minimum of work. The attic is 80' by 30'. Its about 150 batts but I'm only going to replace the bad ones for now, maybe 50.

I'm not doing spray foam or anything that will be tough to undo like glue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12513316)
Cut them, to fit between the rafter bay so its flush not on the underside of the rafter. I would cut some of them a little short of the rafter length, leave room for the vent to allow fresh air in. No channels, no mess and restruction. Air will flow just fine and find its way out the ridge vent. Its designed to do that.

Cut what? Solid foam panels? They're pretty expensive. And cutting them would be a giant pita.

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket (Post 12513340)
OK, I’m confused. What are the channels?

Are they the Styrofoam baffles, that allow air to move from the soffits to the ridge?

Then the insulation goes on top, between the rafters.

At a minimum, you’re going to want to do something at the soffits, to allow air to flow

You can buy a M12 Milwaukee battery on Amazon for $28 or four knockoffs for $40. I have two and they work just as well as the originals.

https://a.co/d/adg1Kg5

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754953984.jpg

Yes, those channels exactly. Except I think mine are plastic.

I'm pretty sure I just want an air stapler. How would I control the power with that milwaukee battery thing? The wood laughed at the stanley/bostitch pos that I had before. What is the benefit of the milwaukee thing? Its lighter, easier to maneuver and no hose? I guess I'd love it if it didn't suck but I'm skeptical. Is some weird hangup I've got. I've used/borrowed plenty of battery tools and I'm just not feeling much love toward them. Probably because my friends all gush so hard.

Anyway, I think I know what I want: a 3/8" t50 air stapler. I'm going to walk along with a helper, they hold the channels and I staple, then we do the batts. Finally I'll cover with some rolls of sheeting to keep the batts from leaking into the attic.

zakthor 09-04-2025 05:54 PM

Ok update I bought a $40 T50 air stapler at home depot and some boxes of staples. I also scored a small compressor off craigslist, a rolair jt10plus, for $120. Is nice I can carry it myself and its real quiet.

Wow is that combo nice. Went through almost 800 staples and each was about as much work and noise as pressing the space bar. Ran it at 65psi. Just a 'pst' and a perfect staple. Unreal. Never used a small air tool before, this thing is dreamy. The staples are a joke of course, its not a sheathing stapler, but def good enough for what I'm doing.


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