Heater Hose/Pipe Assembly Leak!!!

[HobieMarty]

So do ya think it can be fixed???

Okay, I have a 1997 Ford Taurus SHO. It has a 3.4 liter double overhead cam 32 valve V8 engine which is a unicorn of sorts as Ford didn't use this engine in anything other than the SHO. Yay Ford!!!
I moved the car the other day and noticed it was leaking coolant and I found the source of the leak to be a heater hose that has a metal pipe manufactured onto or into the rubber hose. It comes out of the engine near the water pump as a rubber hose, then transitions to a metal pipe where it makes a couple of turns and then goes into another rubber hose and into the firewall. Where the metal pipe makes a bend is where I found a hole. The hole is very clean and I don't see any rust, the pipe inside had a little rusty liquid but nothing super major. This is an original part and is not to be found anywhere. I have searched the internet, ebay, and even Pull-a-Part and cannot find a replacement therefore, I have reached out to a friend about brazing the hole. What do y'all think about that sort of repair. It is my only option really, repair or try to have something made. The whole assembly looks very good to be as old as it is, other than the hole that is.

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[stevej37]

Didn't that year SHO have a Yamaha engine?
(don't know the answer to your question)

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by stevej37

Didn't that year SHO have a Yamaha engine?
(don't know the answer to your question)

The SHO used heads and intakes designed by Yamaha.

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[John Rogers]

If it were me, I would junk the stock hose since the hole seems to be a flow/erosion failure and find the correct diameter kevlar reinforced off road racing hose. I say that due to the appearance of the bends in the metal portion were not bent to insure equal strength throughout. I had to do that with my late daughter's Ford sedan 12 or so years ago. Lucky we live in Southern CA where there are lots of off road racing speed shops.

When I was stationed on board CGN25 about 1978 one night while making rounds we heard water running? Humm not normal on the main deck of a ship so when we found the source of the noise, it was a hole, little bigger than yours on the inside area of a firemain (salt water) 6 inch line! Shown a flashlight there and you could see the water rushing by and nothing was splashing out at all! Got it replaced the next day.
John Rogers the oldracer

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by John Rogers

If it were me, I would junk the stock hose since the hole seems to be a flow/erosion failure and find the correct diameter kevlar reinforced off road racing hose. I say that due to the appearance of the bends in the metal portion were not bent to insure equal strength throughout. I had to do that with my late daughter's Ford sedan 12 or so years ago. Lucky we live in Southern CA where there are lots of off road racing speed shops.



When I was stationed on board CGN25 about 1978 one night while making rounds we heard water running? Humm not normal on the main deck of a ship so when we found the source of the noise, it was a hole, little bigger than yours on the inside area of a firemain (salt water) 6 inch line! Shown a flashlight there and you could see the water rushing by and nothing was splashing out at all! Got it replaced the next day.

John Rogers the oldracer

I'm sure I would have to have something custom made to mimic the shape of the hose and pipe. Then there is the bracket, it bolts to the intake.

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[A930Rocket]

That looks like a pretty good size hole. Fixing that one hole might be a Band-Aid, as there might be thin metal at other bends.

Is there any way to fabricate a replica pipe section?

Or, cut the hole out and slice it with a section of rubber hose and clamps.

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

That looks like a pretty good size hole. Fixing that one hole might be a Band-Aid, as there might be thin metal at other bends.



Is there any way to fabricate a replica pipe section?



Or, cut the hole out and slice it with a section of rubber hose and clamps.

I was thinking that cutting the pipe and have a rubber hose clamped in between the two halves of the pipe would be an option. I thought I could just slide a rubber hose or sleeve over the section with the hole and clamp that, but that darn bracket won't allow for that and the hose and the pipe are made together with a band. I guess I could essentially cut the band off, which would allow me to remove the pipe, slide a rubber sleeve over the hole and clamp, then clamp the pipe back into the original hose. Lots of clamps to fail though. Cutting the pipe and clamping in a section of hose uses less clamps.

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[greglepore]

Go talk to a local hydraulic hose shop, they might have some ideas...

[911boost]

They make reinforced heater hose that will bend but not crimp. I would use one of those and cut the mounting tab off that one and reuse it. I am guessing it is metal when it passes something hot, like the exhaust so you could shield it like has been mentioned.

I thought maybe Ford used that same V8 in the Volvo XC90 when they owned Volvo (we had a 2005 and it hauled a$$), but it is a 4.4L V8 also designed by Yamaha. It does sit transverse like in the SHO, but I am doubt there is that part of a carryover.

[Zeke]

If the theory is that hydraulic friction created the hole then the metal either side is going to be thin. Good luck brazing a screen door. BTDT on a 356 where the panels were so thin from the obvious rust that the weldable metal was a long way from the target. Typical of metal panels.

This is a pipe, I know. So whey not cut it in two at the hole and take a look? You could cut out a section and fit a new one. I have seen 90º bends for sale in just about any metal and diameter. If you get lucky you can get an ID that fits snugly over the OD of the pipe. If not then it can be expanded.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+expand+a+tube+with+no+ tools

Interesting article about hydraulic friction

(actually the article reached with mispelling was better )

[onewhippedpuppy]

Originally Posted by greglepore

Go talk to a local hydraulic hose shop, they might have some ideas...

This would be my approach. They will have the equipment to mandrel bend a new piece of solid tubing and flare the tube ends. Then get some new radiator hose or re-use your existing rubber section.

[speeder]

My approach would be to do an internet search for the part # on the hose and see if it's available from dealers or NOS sellers on Ebay, etc. Or just call a dealer. The first one lasted 29 years, what do you want?

No need to re-invent the wheel for this one. Or just have it welded and call it a day. I spend half my life looking for discontinued parts, this is unfortunately my wheelhouse.

[Bob Kontak]

I like the cut the metal pipe at the hole and sleeve it with a radiator hose piece. A bulge at the ends would help seal.

You could JB Weld a curved steel/aluminum patch after roughing up both pieces for gaining good mechanical adhesion.

You can solder steel but you will have to study on that as a different flux and solder is needed



FWIW - I found the rusted metal heater hose pic below from a SHO when looking for Marty's hose.

Same type of degradation it appears.

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by speeder

My approach would be to do an internet search for the part # on the hose and see if it's available from dealers or NOS sellers on Ebay, etc. Or just call a dealer. The first one lasted 29 years, what do you want?



No need to re-invent the wheel for this one. Or just have it welded and call it a day. I spend half my life looking for discontinued parts, this is unfortunately my wheelhouse.

Uh yeah, I have searched all over the internet using the part number and came up with nothing. I have searched ebay and even Pull-a-Part and nodda, nuthin', zip, ziltch!!!
I want to use a correct part so... the search will continue but I will repair this one in the meantime. Thanks y'all!!!

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[john70t]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

I like the cut the metal pipe at the hole and sleeve it with a radiator hose piece. A bulge at the ends would help seal.

You could JB Weld a curved steel/aluminum patch after roughing up both pieces for gaining good mechanical adhesion.

A few WAG:
Hose vs pipe are 2 separate tasks:

1). Local auto store might be able to match up a new hose.
My first hack thought GET ER DOWN THE ROAD is to use standard hose plug insert-able fix. It must resist internal pressures and water heat.
(Results not guaranteed)

2). Custom piping companies might be able to bend and knurl a new pipe.
Or JBWeld in a screw head and cut off.

[john70t]

The new AI helpful search world which fixes everything: "All that meat and no potatoes."

[A930Rocket]

Post the part number and see what the Pelican Roost can do!

[Brian 162]

I did a quick google search and found a Ford Taurus forum/ Taurus Car Club of America. Maybe you can get results there.
Good luck

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Post the part number and see what the Pelican Roost can do!

These are the numbers on the hose. I have tried searching the longer of the numbers and have seen lots of heater hoses under that number but not the one I need.

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[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

I did a quick google search and found a Ford Taurus forum/ Taurus Car Club of America. Maybe you can get results there.
Good luck

I have been a member of SHO Forum since I got the car in 2003. No one on the forum knows where to find the part either. I had forgotten about TCCA. I think I was a member on there many years ago but made a new account and posted about the heater hose on there. We will see what happens. Thanks for reminding me about TCCA.

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