Auto interior help

[DWBOX2000]

On my 1986 944, the plastic trim that holds the drivers side window switches has a little sag. Enough that the two clips on top don’t catch. Upon removal, I noticed there is a tiny bit of sag on the door card where the two screws attach the cover. The material feels like a cardboard,though I’m sure it’s something that had more rigidity. Any suggestions on somehow putting them back in place and firming them up with a resin or something?
Thanks.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

80s Porsche door panels are all made from cardboard which mostly warps over time.

To do a permanent fix I think you would have to pull the door panel off and use either 6 ounce fiberglass front and back or rivet on a small sheetmetal plate and drill new holes.

The plate is probably a better solution as the screws could vibrate in the fiberglass enlarging them and you are back where you started.

ABS plastic sheet will work too.

[DWBOX2000]

Thanks Shaun. I’ll take a look into.

[herr_oberst]

The plate would be my solution, too, and instead of riveting you might consider using epoxy to attach the plate. If I went with epoxy I'd make the plate extra large for maximum gluing surface.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Epoxying the plate is best solution, I'm just not sure what you would use that is cost effective that would permanently affix the two different materials together. I use a Loctite Hysol product for nearly everything, especially since it has a low durometer to prevent fracturing (always my greatest fear in epoxy), but is too expensive with the special gun applicator to say nothing of the epoxy itself.

2 versions I've had 100% success on in very challenging situations including epoxying in a power steering line ferrule nut into an as delivered stripped Toyota steering rack that was not returnable because people were stripping the aluminum rack and then returning to get another. There was a note in the box saying exactly that. Stripped so badly the nut would go in and out easily, the HT40 saved me over $300. Been using it ever since, perfect for cracks in magnesium 911 fan housings

LOCTITE E-40HT Hysol Epoxy Structural Adhesive - 50ml cartridge

and

Loctite 237110 Off White E-60HP Hysol Epoxy Structural Adhesive, Toughened, 50 mL, 1.69 fl. oz., Dual Sided Cartridge

[herr_oberst]

I was thinking of JB Weld, using a patch of steel that I could cut with tin snips, but I've never worked on 944 door cards, so I'm pretty sure I'm not picturing the problem in my minds eye.

[Zeke]

JB Weld is an ingenious product but it is simple, epoxy thickened with metallic powder and other fillers for good binding and machining ability that you don't need. There are many effective 2-part small quantity epoxy kits at the hardware store. You can drill through them too, but they are not as good at bridging a gap.

[DWBOX2000]

There are two tabs that come horizontally (probably 90 degrees) off the vertical door panel. It like it’s all one piece but the tabs are bent down from the rest of the panel. Those two horizontal pieces have sagged just enough to be annoying. The light switch panel is still attached to door panel, just sagging a bit below where it should be.
I’m a bit reluctant to take door panel off since something else will likely break but I’m game.
Thank you both.

[herr_oberst]

I think I need to tap out of this discussion. I'm pretty much falling on my face here, ha ha! Sorry to the OP...)

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

I think I need to tap out of this discussion. I'm pretty much falling on my face here, ha ha! Sorry to the OP...)

I don't see why. I think metal reinforcement of cardboard is viable. It's thin and shouldn't affect the assembly. I can't imagine a cardboard cutout for window switches holding up forever given the up and down force constantly being applied. Sounds to me like the tabs have rolled down just a bit.

DW probably can just use a resin to do this. The key is he doesn't want to remove the door card to fix it. So what do you do? Get some glue and kludge it. Seems like a job for paper clips or binders to hold the repair while setting.

[Scott Douglas]

I recently had the opportunity to use JB Weld SteelStik.
Worked great at reinforcing the webs of a pivot on my train car.

It comes as a puddy you mix once cut off to the amount you need. It has about a 5 minute working time so you can mold it before it sets.
This is tough stuff once hardened and is machinable.
I bought some small, stainless steel spatulas to work it with off Amazon.
I think it would work in your case if you can figure out how to hold the tabs in position once the epoxy is applied.

[DWBOX2000]

Thanks, I will remove the panel just hesitant.
If I break stuff, I’m not sure what’s available on a 40 year old, non 911 Porsche so I proceed with caution.
I’ll add to the list.
Currently trying to seal the windshield cleaner reservoir. I used Jb welder with plastic stuff last night. I also need to fix that and headlight beam switch before I can get inspected. I’ll do the switch Monday. I’m looking forward to using as commuter.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Harbor Freight has this interior panel removal kit, it's required for a drama free job.

Armed with a YT Univ degree, removing the panel should be easy.

Called an installer kit, it's really removal

PITTSBURGH Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit, 4-Piece

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by Zeke

I don't see why.

Let me try again. I'd probably us a metal patch, as previously stated, maybe a piece if coke can or a tin can, carefully flattened, and I'd glue it to the door card using a 2 part epoxy. I'd make the patch as large as practical to get plenty of glue area.
If the card has seen moisture and has become soft, I've also had very good results reinforcing fiber door cards using an artist's product called 'mod podge' and regular kraft paper, in multiple layers. Then the metal patch.
Since we now know there's a steel reinforcement escutcheon behind the switch, I'd spend time to trying to determine if the escutcheon should be sandwiched between the patch, or on top of it.




This is the epoxy I'd use, or something similar.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

don't forget surface prep is everything. The bonding side of the steel plate and carboard door panel should be scuffed with 80 grit to create toothed surface area, the second most important aspect of a high quality bond. Cleanliness is critical for a strong long lasting bond.

Clamp together for however long the cure cycle requires