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Best way to grade dirt for a lawn??

I just finished leveling my back yard with a backhoe loader. Had to knock down about a foot and a half of slope. Getting ready to toss down some grass seed. Problem is I still need to grade the dirt down alot to get it smooth. A loaders not the best thing to use to get a smooth suface, I still have alot of big lumps and furrows left.
Whats the best way to knock it down to get it level and ready for seeding? a few suggestions I heard where to drag a fence post behind my lawn tractors and also to drag a big piece of chainlink fence.
Any other ideas? I have about a half acre to do.

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Old 07-06-2006, 07:56 AM
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Go to Home Depot buy 15 cheap rakes. Then go to the parking lot and pick up some "cheap labor" for the day.

I have heard of the chain link fence trick too. That is what I would do.
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:25 AM
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You could rent a tractor with a disc attachment. That's how the local farmers around here level off their fields.
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:31 AM
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Bobcat with an attachment called a rockhound or landscape rake would do a great final prep. Probably about 250-300 /day to rent.
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:41 AM
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or you could just lay your sod down and then sand it.
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:56 AM
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How to grade dirt?

Walk outside to the dirt and say loudly (with a German accent):

"You get an F!!"
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:03 AM
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Get a landscapers rake. They are around 3-4 feet wide and made for this purpose. I moved acres of dirt working for a hydroseeding business summers in highschool and got quite proficient.

JP
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:19 AM
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Since we are on the topic of grading. What's the best way to replace old uneven patchy grass in a small 20*20 back yard and resod the the whole thing... while on a small budget?
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:23 AM
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neil..if on a budget, maybe try just throwing down some fescue seed. it's designed to grow in shady areas where other grass will not. give it some time to get growing (few weeks) and then spread lime. you won't be out much $$ and if it doesn't work, then look into sod. a pallet covers approx. 350 sq. feet.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigchillcar
.. then spread lime. ...
ryan
First you have to establish what the problem(s) is/are. Lime may be the right thing or not. What's the sun, water, pH, drainage etc. It can be easily done for cheap if you approach it reasonably. Sod will get you grass this year, but maybe not next year.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:56 AM
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peter, just figuring that overall, dallas and little rock soil climate probably not too different (300 miles away)..and in little rock, our grass can't get enough lime. mine's crying for it right now.
ryan
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:03 AM
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I just bought the house, so I can't really say if the soil is good or not. However, the sprinkler system is currently not functioning, so I would say a lack of water is to blame.

I googled Fescue grass and one site says "Fescue is referred to as a cool-season grass. " I am not sure that it would work in Dallas, especially since there are water restrictions in place due to the lack of rain.

Thanks for the tips so far. I'd like to tackle this myself if I can.
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigchillcar
peter, just figuring that overall, dallas and little rock soil climate probably not too different (300 miles away)..and in little rock, our grass can't get enough lime. mine's crying for it right now.
ryan
No doubt, just suggesting that he do some homework, and address all the problems at once rather than trial and error.
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:25 AM
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Well, I really dont want to spend the $$ to rent another machine so I guess i'll try the fence trick. Sod would run me a few G's, so thats out.
Everyone I know suggested the Mexican idea!
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:12 PM
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Do you have a front end loader on your tractor? I've gotten very adept at working my road level going BACKWARDS with the loader at various angles and pressures.

I also work out level issues in my fields with the same technique.

If I can do it...
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Old 07-06-2006, 03:20 PM
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I used one of these- worked great...

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Old 07-06-2006, 05:11 PM
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I once saw a local guy dragging an old pallet around with his atv. He was able to put a couple of cement blocks on it to give it some extra weight. Smoothed the big humps out and then he finished with one of those wide rakes. He did a 1.5 acre lot in a long morning.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chilling in VT
I once saw a local guy dragging an old pallet around with his atv. He was able to put a couple of cement blocks on it to give it some extra weight. Smoothed the big humps out and then he finished with one of those wide rakes. He did a 1.5 acre lot in a long morning.
Bingo! Got two behind my shed. Gonna try that tomorrow.

I have one of those landscape rakes also, but i'm mainly concerned abount knocking down whatever large humps were left over, and filling in the low spots. My soil is mainly loam, a mixture of clay and sand.

John, I seen those York rakes but couldnt find one to rent to fit my garden tractor.

Seahawk, thats the method I used to grade it to where it is.
Guess I couldnt finesse it enough to get it smoother. It's tough with the short wheelbase of the loader I used.

What can I say, I'm a transplated New York City boy...
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Vinny
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:00 PM
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I've used chain link fence behind an ATC. good results
Old 07-06-2006, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Seahawk
Do you have a front end loader on your tractor? I've gotten very adept at working my road level going BACKWARDS with the loader at various angles and pressures.

I also work out level issues in my fields with the same technique.

If I can do it...
This works well, my FEL has a float feature that automatically adjusts it for smoothing, changing the bucket angle for different effects. A box blade might be needed first for some leveling, and the last things is a landscape rake to remove large clods. Some tractor implements can be rented.

Old 07-06-2006, 07:50 PM
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