Roofing estimates - what questions should I be asking?

[widebody911]

I need a new roof, and I've started getting estimates. What should I be looking for, and what questions should I be asking? I'm going from shake to comp, and I already know the shingles I need (to match my shop).

So far 3 contractors have come out to give me estimates.

Contractor #1: shows up in a huge turbo diesel 4x4 parked bass-ackwards the wrong direction across my driveway, with the company logo on a magnet on the door. Gelled, blown dry hair, white shirt, too much cologne, looked way too clean to be in construction. Didn't ask a lot of questions, and wrote his quote on the back of a business card - thats it. $7800, 2 week lead time.

Contractor #2: drove a mini van, dressed more like an state office worker. Asked a few questions, worked up a quote, and gave me a packet with all kinds of glossy handouts about the company, as well as some info about their insurance and license status, as well as refs. $9300, 2 week lead time.

Contractor #3: standard contractor pickup, simple polo shirt with the company name. This guy looked like he'd spent some time on quite a few roofs. He took the most time looking things over and asking questions, and even took a look at roof from the bottom side. He also suggested using the foil-backed sheathing; I was aware of this stuff, but neither of the other guys asked. He worked up a quote and left a detailed packet about the materials, insurance and license stuff. $8300, 1 week lead time.

Contractor #4: never showed up.

[Moneyguy1]

Thom:

Some suggestions:

Step 2: Better Business Bureau; complaints?

Step 3: list of references: and absolute requirement

Step 4: visit the references supplied. If none supplied, that bidder is eliminated.

[kach22i]

Tradition is five bids and throw out the high and low bids.

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=Plytanium%E2%84%A2+Thermostat%E 2%84%A2+Radiant+Barrier+Sheathing&pid=1398&hierarchy

Q: When installed, should the foil face of Thermostat® Radiant Barrier Sheathing face the outside?
A: Roofs:

No. The panel must be installed foil side down facing the attic air space. For radiant barriers to perform, the reflective surface must face a minimum 3/4” air space. This is also practical since the foil surface would be very slippery and would produce intense glare for workman during installation if installed foil face up. Additionally, when installed foil down, dust can not accumulate and interfere with the proper functioning of the radiant barrier.

Sounds like what you need in California, I like this number three, what kind of vibe did you get?

Yes, references..............a must.

[craigster59]

I have a good friend who is a roofer. He's a lot like #3, tells customer the guy who is giving the bid is the guy they'll see on their roof. He's in his late 40's and still throws down the shingles.

Granted, you might not see your contractor on your roof, but check references and demand an english speaking Supervisor on site any time work is being done. It will save headaches and communication breakdowns.

Also, my friend swears by a few "Whirlybirds" to vent if you don't already have them.

[widebody911]

Originally posted by craigster59
Also, my friend swears by a few "Whirlybirds" to vent if you don't already have them.

I have two of these now, and all 3 contractors suggested getting rid of them and using ridge vents.

[TerryH]

Other than questions about warranty, replacement wood, color of flashing, number of vents/turbines, you need to ensure they don't make a mess in your attic. Going from shake to shingle means they are stripping your roof right down to the slats. Before the CDX plywood goes down, your attic will be exposed to the elements.

[fireant911]

Thom,
I have nothing to add to your original question but I do have some input on the roof vents your contractors suggested - do it!!! I installed an attic fan several years back as these are supposed to help with the cooling bills. Our attic fan ran almost continuously from mid-morming to late evening in the summer. We had our roof replaced and had the roofers install the roof vents... the fan has not run in the last two years. We noticed that our house also remained cooler in the summer.

[Moses]

Go with contractor #4. He'll save you at least $7,800.

Seriously though, the decision to go from shake to comp is a huge step in the right direction. When I redid my roof, I asked for references and called them.

"Did the contractor show up on time?"

"Was the job finished on time and budget?"

"Did they leave roofing nails and broken shakes all over the yard?"

"Was there any property damage during the install?"

"Were you happy with the work?"

[Seahawk]

Originally posted by fireant911
Thom,
I have nothing to add to your original question but I do have some input on the roof vents your contractors suggested - do it!!! I installed an attic fan several years back as these are supposed to help with the cooling bills. Our attic fan ran almost continuously from mid-morming to late evening in the summer. We had our roof replaced and had the roofers install the roof vents... the fan has not run in the last two years. We noticed that our house also remained cooler in the summer.

Absolutely key, at least here in Maryland.

References are a must...I gooned it by not doing my due diligence four years ago. The first significant storm enabled both the proverbial cat and dog to enter the house

We are just know fixing the ceilings, flashing, etc. on the roofers insurance...not an easy pull, but we're almost done, with a different roofer!

Nothing is more important than a roof.

[juanbenae]

see if any has pulled permits in your area and check with recent customers. demand he gives a reference from a job w/i the last three months. many of the references you get will be ringers, even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again. meaning you only will be given a list of satified clients.

[John Rogers]

The references have already been covered as have the BBB folks. We ended up using a contractor from Home Depot for a couple of reasons, first the references were spot on, we knew there would be some wood replacement required and he did not give me any phony possible estimates of how much it would be, he waited until the old roof was completely cleared off, their guarantee was pretty good and Home Depot actually had someone check every other day in person to make sure we were happy with the progress and finally we did not have to pay anything until they were finished. Two of the people we called wanted 50% and 60% of the $$$$$ before they started!

[Por_sha911]

I just had my roof done this month!

1) Make sure they are: licensed, bonded, and insured (Workers Comp AND General Liability). This protects you from being sued if they fall and having a problem with the work and they leave town and you're stuck with damage to the interior of the home. Require that they have written proof from the Ins co in your hands before they start.

2) Get the estimate in writing on a legit form. Otherwise its your word against theirs.

3) Ask for a quote with and without the shingles (they supply all other materials). This will force them to measure accurately and you may save money that way because they don't want you to see that you have a ton of leftover shingles. Also get in writing what the cost is to replace plywood. Also, price out the shingles locally (lumber supply not Lowes). You may be able to save some money.

4) Make sure you are getting a complete tear-off and not just new roof on top of the old.

5) Ask what brand of shingles they like to use. Each brand has certain requirements for # of nails per tile... This will ensure you have a valid warranty.

6) Ask for, no, require local recent references. Go look at the job they did. Ask the homeowner if they cleaned up well (or you may be picking up nails from your lawn for 2 years).

7) Money down in advance is a negotiable. I ordered a stock color shingle and didn't pay a penny till the job was done.

8) Unless you are planning to sell quickly, get at least a 30year shingle. The labor is far more expensive than the materials. Put in ridge vents instead of the alum boxes. Far more efficient. Attic turbine fans are great in the summer but leak a lot of heat in the cold months.

[competentone]

Contractor #4 might be the best roofer -- if he can be careless about keeping an appointment, it may mean that he is busy enough that he doesn't need any more business. He may be poor at the "business" part of doing business, but might be an excellent roofer and stays busy from word-of-mouth referrals.

You might want to give him a second call and see what he says about missing the appointment.

Do you know what the going rate is per square for roofing (and it sounds like sheathing too) in your area?

Anyone suggest/comment about ice/water shield membrane in valleys, etc.? What about drip-edge, flashing details, algae resistant shingles, weights of felt or other underlayments, plumbing stack boots, etc.?

I'd be looking for someone who pays attention to the "details" -- most roof leaks I've seen are not related to the roof itself, but some flashing detail that wasn't done right.

[austin552]

I would just be happy to find someone to do the job. I had around eight companies out and nobody wants the job. Lots of pitches, angles, sections, etc, etc... Going to have to call other cities to find someone I guess.

[Por_sha911]

Originally posted by competent one
Contractor #4 might be the best roofer -- if he can be careless about keeping an appointment, it may mean that he is busy enough that he doesn't need any more business. He may be poor at the "business" part of doing business, but might be an excellent roofer and stays busy from word-of-mouth referrals.

I disagree. If he's unreliable now, he'll be a nightmare to get the job done on time (or worse: come out to fix a problem).

[competentone]

Originally posted by Por_sha911
I disagree. If he's unreliable now, he'll be a nightmare to get the job done on time (or worse: come out to fix a problem).

You may be right, but just as it is when it comes to certain auto-related repairs, the guy who doesn't call you back and takes two months to get a job done -- because he's so busy -- is sometimes the guy you want to do the work.

[azasadny]

I'd check out # 3 thoroughly, and if they check out, use them!

[TerryH]

Doesn't just the idea of needing a new roof suck? Mines going on 20 years and still looks good, but it was $6500 then. I don't even want to think about the next one. I suppose tile or concrete is the way to go, but hell, I didn't think I'd still be living here two decades ago.

Could get a nice SC for the price of keeping rain off my head.

[RickM]

Alot of good advice here. I had a two layer roof rip and replace when I bought my ranch several years ago. Luckily a family friend was in the business and he did the entire job complete with GAF brand - Cobras ridge vents. He also doubled up on the rubberized ice shield (obviously not an issue for you).

My advice would be to get references as suggested and look at the homes that were done recently and perhaps 5-10 years ago. The reason to question older jobs is to see if critical areas like chimneys, vents, flashings, complex angle joints etc kept rain out. If any of these customers had a problem did the contractor remedy? Many don't like to take the time for "small", time consuming troubleshooting. something to get in writing.

Consider that when a chimney is redressed some contractors slop tons of tar at the seam while others will utilize copper flashing with the appropriate amount of sealant.

While I like the performance of the ridge vent and believe the claim that it enhances shingle lifespan it will likely render a gable type attic/whole house fan useless. At least as far as drawing air from the house windows. All air will be drawn from the ridge vent. In order to complete the effectiveness it is wise to install soffit vents as well.

Will the leaders and gutters get ripped as well? Probably. Consider that saving and reusing is usually not worth the effort.