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RWebb's Avatar
 
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sheetrock interior exposure

I've always heard that you can never go thru the paper on sheetrock (or bad things will happen)....


How 'bad' is this?




The poorly done plastering job apparently needed some shaving so the baseboard trim would fit -- a lot of shaving in this spot.

What will or can happen when the paper is breached like this?

And, now that I have the baseboard trim off, if the exposure IS a problem can I coat the exposed gypsum interior with something (primer & paint? epoxy? caulk?) and make it 'good' again.

This in a den/bedroom that is usually at about 60-70 oF usually has a RH of 50-60% and is at the bottom of the sheetrock panel (wood floor shown at bottom). It all sits on concrete slab in a daylight basemnt - towards the 'daylight' part.

Old 10-25-2009, 02:30 PM
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Patch it up. Use some fixall or plaster of paris first, then float the top with mud.
Mud alone at that depth would never dry. It is also easier to sand.

If it really bugs you you. Just cut it out and put a new piece in.
You can cut out a square or rectangular hole, Take a couple pieces of thin wood ( 1/2" x 1") span them across the hole you just cut, on the backside. Pull them tight against the wall and screw them in place from the outside with drywall screws.
Then take a new piece of drywall, precut to the size of the hole you made and then screw that to the 2 sticks with drywall screws.
Tape up the joints, mud, sand, fake texture and paint.

I wouldn't be to worried about just patching it up. Isn't the base going to cover most of it anyways?

Last edited by dipso; 10-25-2009 at 03:04 PM..
Old 10-25-2009, 02:41 PM
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Just prime it with a thick coat of primer. If your really worried about it use Kilz.
Old 10-25-2009, 03:54 PM
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A small peice of fiberglass mesh tape used for seams will help hold everything together. Then a quick skim coat of mud, and you're done.
Old 10-25-2009, 03:58 PM
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I guess I should have emphasized that ALL of the area is corvered by wooden trim.

So what is the minimum I should do to fix it?

Primer?
Old 10-25-2009, 04:33 PM
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Nothing. Seriously.

It's at the bottom of the wall covered by baseboard. The drywall cooties can't fit through an opening that small.
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:42 PM
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I guess I should have emphasized that ALL of the area is corvered by wooden trim.

So what is the minimum I should do to fix it?
Put the wood trim back on!
Old 10-25-2009, 04:49 PM
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Good!

so what is the source of this folklore rumor myth thing that if the paper on sheetrock is breached then you are in big trouble?

does it only apply in really humid areas?
(I grew up in Louisiana so maybe it is berbotten anywhere down there...)
Old 10-25-2009, 05:13 PM
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This isn't Chinese drywall is it?
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Old 10-25-2009, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb View Post
Good!

so what is the source of this folklore rumor myth thing that if the paper on sheetrock is breached then you are in big trouble?

does it only apply in really humid areas?
(I grew up in Louisiana so maybe it is berbotten anywhere down there...)
It's 'breached' at every receptacle, switchbox, window & door opening.....
Old 10-25-2009, 06:44 PM
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Exposed paper in moist environments is all mold needs to grow. Seal the paper with some kilz or whatever your favorite primer is and you will be fine.
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:06 PM
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"If the paper on sheetrock is breached" - in the middle of a wall - it's rather difficult to patch and the texture difference not appear on the surface and (even) after painting.
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:49 PM
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I don't know what that metalic thing is, but I think the flooring needs a half inch or so to be able to expand. If it can't move it will buckle over time.
Old 10-25-2009, 08:11 PM
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metallic thing = edge of plastic sheet under the engineered wood floor - it is catching some flash shine

no not Chinese sheetrock

thx everyone!
Old 10-25-2009, 08:51 PM
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Clean the loose crap out of the void. Put new joint compound in the void spreading a very thin layer onto the paper (this will act as glue). Place a piece of joint tape over the area (paper or mesh). Run your taping knife over the tape to smooth. Let the area dry and then put your trim back on.

The myth is and isn't a myth. The paper holds the gypsum in place. Breaching the paper simply weakness the area. When fastening the rock to a stud if the screw or nail breaches the paper it looses holding power. It does not render it useless it only means you need to add another screw a few inches away in sound material. Getting the paper wet is a bigger issue as the paper looses all strength and the fasteners will pull trough the paper the gypsum becomes brittle and will fall apart under it's own weight.
Old 10-27-2009, 07:09 AM
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thx

Old 10-27-2009, 09:22 AM
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