Old Ford starter question:
 

Trying to help a buddy today who has an old, (1989), Ford CV that will not start. It's either the starter or relay. I did not feel like jacking it up at his place to check starter today but here is question:

If relay clicks loudly, does that mean that it's bad? I can't remember the deal with those...TIA as always.

Can you jump or bypass the relay and see if it starts?

If it's the on the fender solenoid just jump it and see if the starter works. On the solenoid make sure it has a good ground on the base to the body and if it is the solenoid they've cheap (>$20).

If the relay clicks it just means it has B- and B+ for engagement, It doesn't mean it is sending B+ to the starter. A simple replay is actually two circuits in one box.

A clicking relay can also mean the battery is low and there isn't enough power to fully engage the relay.

A buddy has a Ford pu of that vintage and it has two relays on it.

The first thing that I would check would be the solenoid which is probably what you're calling the relay. It should look something like this.
http://www.lamustang.com/SQLCart/Ima...rge/103205.jpg
Or the battery. I would get the battery load tested at a parts store, and pick up a new solenoid.

That is the solenoid I was talking about, if the mount base doesn't have a good bolted to chassis ground it won't work. BTDT
I use these solenoids to cure the hot start issue on old VW's and 914's, I don't use the wimpy bosch horn relay.
I also agree with the others on the battery condition.

Start from scratch: K.I.S.S.(keep it simple stupid) principle.
-Rotate the engine with the crank pulley bolt. This ensures the motor is not binding
-Check all cable connections.
-Check battery level, load, and cranking rpm when it finally gets turning.

If it ain't the relay try a couple of hammer blows to the starter. May be on a "dead" spot. Don't hit it too hard !

Yup to the direct soft mallet hits.
The starter bendix (teeter toter pivot for the main amp/load/gear connection) can get crusty over time.