I'd be interested in seeing pics of the rocker covers, pedals, etc. for assessment of the mileage. And thank you for posting what you already have already.

I am NOT interested in seeing the thread get derailed by pwd-was-a-72s.

Well, I feel privileged. I'm going to see the car and eat my padding. ;) We'll call it 911 pudding.

I've read the pros and cons here and I'm afraid I started the cons. What I and others have to understand is that a Bugatti was taken from under water not that long ago. It was in terrible shape, if that, with around 20 % of the car being salvageable. Yet, it was a low mileage car. As the story goes, it was nearly new when pushed into the lake where it lived for over 70 years.

Apparently, mileage and condition are not necessarily absolutely mutual.

Thank you Milt the nay sayers will eat crow, amazing.

I guess I will interview the seller video tape it and quiet down the minions ;)

Tell us your plans - concours? period correct? hot rod?

This is no way to treat the man that started the "Chest thread"
I bet this car turns out great, It's in good hands

Rofl, and more than happy to remind us of it.

Indeed, when a car sits in a field in TX for 20 years, it just doesn't look like it's only gone 71K miles.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362534516.jpg

I think he said he would return the car to it's original splendor.
Hear, hear.

I sincerely hope he pulls it off...but OMG it's going to take a TON of work and a lot of money.

Very true.

"original splendor" could be something short of concours too, esp. the way concours winning is done nowadays.

The hardest part of this restoration will be finding a correct, NOS dash. Otherwise it looks straightforward and relatively easy. With $20K in the engine, $20K in the body and $7K in the interior, it's probably a $60K checkbook restoration if there really is no rust.

Unless he sends it to someone like John Willhoit, in which case it will be a $200k+ resto.

You haven't been tracking Magnus Walker. He pulls the car down and sends the body out for paint. He assembles the car with his choice of parts which can be purchased easily new or refurbished.

If I had a 40,000 mile car to do, I would divide the project into 3 areas of endevor: body, mechanicals and interior. A qualified interior specialist could do that car over in a week. The paint work can be done in not that much more of a time frame depending on how much direct time is devoted to that particular car. 2 men full time should be able to turn that car back out of the paint shop in 2 weeks. Assembly of the body trim and mechanicals can take as long as you want it to. But, in all reality, most shouldn't take more than another 2 weeks.

But that's hustling big time and that method is not a lot of fun. Magnus likes to sit and look at his latest project and enjoy it while he conjures up what he might otherwise do. I, myself, liked to keep the pressure on during the dozen or so projects I have done. But I never disliked stopping before turning the lights out and gazing at what had been done.

For Mark, this becomes the latest resident of the shop. As a resident, it has full privileges to develop as he wishes. Money is a product of time and energy working both ways.

Good point, Milt...I suppose we all look at a car like this through our own eyes...how we'd do it. Or in my case..not. Just looking at the pics, I see stuff I'd consider "unobtainum"...such as the dash mentioned earlier. But hey, I've been out of the early 911 loop for nearly 5 years now...stuff is coming on the market all the time.

Wow, what an incredible find! I'm really looking forward to following the progress!!

Been around show cars, restorations since I could walk. This car will be a concours, white glove type. I don't care what it costs, the plan is to show it a year drive it weekly, road trips, and club events. I will never sell it, just an addition to the collection. Ossi Blue will look great in the cave, along with red and white. Only the best craftsmen will touch it, before I even found the car I already knew who the painter, upholster, mechanic would be. I'm not a newbie at this, been involved in all my dad's restorations since I was very young. Honestly a 911S is much easier to restore than anything we have done in the past.

I'd be curious what you paid for it (and totally understand if you don't want to disclose that). What do you figure your restoration is going to cost and what do you think it'll be worth in the end.

Is there any documentation to show the miles are original? I would think a buyer at over $100K would want to see something convincing, or if not, how much less is it worth with miles unknown? You mentioned the leakdown supported 40K miles? What was it?

What's your motivation? A little coin, the fun of it, to see a car like this brought back? I look forward to see this car come back to life, too. Good luck!

I paid a fair price, I am thinking 40-50K+ to make her perfect, the car should be worth 120K to 150K, i believe these 911S's will continue to appreciate rapidly evidenced by the marketplace, hell my 300SL Gullwing has almost tripled in 3 years:) The value does not matter only to my heirs:) I drive all the hard and frequently. The mileage is evidenced by the original owner. Still brainstorming with the engine builder whether to even tear down the engine, I'm inclined to peak inside.

Am I missing something or are a lot of folks running with a slight shade of green skepticism-envy or what?

Thats a great find. Good for you. Spend what you want. The only person you have to answer to is yourself.

Even if you overpaid for it and spent way more than its worth in restoration I say "Kick ass".

And if you didnt and you dont even better. But who cares! Its your baby.

I'm down the street so if you ever need someone to help move it around the garage drop me a pm.

Very very cool indeed.

Milt I plan on enjoying the car in its current state, whats the rush? I will take 6 months or so to complete. i do have 2 race cars w 2 blown engines that we need to finish first.

I'm not trying to be argumentative but,....

These are just observations from pictures...

Missed that :D The car has had some paint work in the rear, you can see the over spray on some of the wires. Still if it has good bones and the rest of the car is solid he has a great platform for the restoration.

Without question, you should tear it down. Best case, the old gaskets and sealants used will demand this, as otherwise it will be a leaker. My guess is it will need more than just a reseal, but there's only one way to know for sure. In any event, if you're wanting a concours car, as you state, there's a lot of cosmetic work needed on the engine which is best done while it's apart.

JR

What do you mean by this? When you say "enjoy", do you mean just going through the investigating, poking around, brainstorming process? Are you speaking of getting it running in its current state? :eek:
And I think 6 months will pass so quickly, you better take a metric ton of pics. Not to mention notes documenting the whole thing.

Regardless, it's going to be a lot of fun. May have to make a trip out to see it and visit the cave. I want to see the 220, too.

...and the headlight rings....

I totally agree. It's very worthy of the resto and the 69 is a unique bird. However, it also has a number of one year only quirks that will add up fast if doing correctly. I foresee a nasty surprise once the rear parcel pad is removed. That horse hair really traps moisture.

All of the brightwork has been painted black and will need a full resto. Going to need the 69 engine lid (currently sporting a later lid as has been mentioned).

Do we know if it's matching numbers yet? COA?

That engine is sporting tensioners which doesn't jive with the off road date of 75. Any records showing a later rebuild? That will help out on the costs some if that can be verified.

you mean like this?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588668.jpg
Its still fixable....http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588909.jpg

That's the fun part! :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362588962.jpg

I'm not thinking he drove the car 140K+ miles in 5 years. What I'm saying is that I doubt it was parked for good in 1975. It's a nice story, but I see things that don't add up. Forgetting the overall condition and sun damage, the chain tensioners are a later design that came along in 1984. The tires aren't from 1975 and I don't think the radio is either. Things like that...

Don't get me wrong, I'm not out to pick this thing apart just to be a jerk. I'm simply saying that I don't think the car is a low mileage car and that it will require significantly more work to get it to where you've indicated that you want it. It would not surprise me to see that your estimated restoration costs actually double by the time you are done. To get this car back to a very high level will require that you restore virtually every part on it, as I see nothing much that can be used as-is.

Just evaluate what you have with a critical eye and be realistic about what your end goal might be. There's a lot of potential upside in some of these cars but you have to be careful.

Good luck,
JR

"S" wheels all #'s matching like the rest of the car.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362593990.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1362594042.jpg

All fuchs alloys used in 1969 were the "deep sixes". There was no specific "S wheel". The "flat sixes" were first seen on 1972 model year cars.

So much to learn.

"deep sixes" were designed to run tubes. There is no safety bead for tubless as in the flat sixes. The valve stem hole on the deep sixes is larger. Evidently, there is a valve stem made for tractor wheels that fits.

Just going from memory here. All my reference books and spare parts left here when the car did.

Frankly, I admire your courage for taking this on. Well, either courage or being foolhardy...time will reveal which.

[QUOTE=pwd72s;7312435Evidently, there is a valve stem made for tractor wheels that fits.[/QUOTE]

TR415, if my memory is any good.

JR

The date codes are stamped in the hub area. You can just see one of them peaking in your photo.

Those dates are what are neat to match up. Should line up just ahead of the build date.

Did you get any paperwork with the car? How do you know it's numbers matching?

More blue overspray on the spring plate there....

I actually prefer the three bar to the five...SmileWavy I have me one of those waiting in the wings..

You sold your '72? That's news!

Hey Mark - nice pull. Can't wait to see the finished product.

^^^Animosity illustrated...

Paul is giving out good information on this thread so don't diss him.

re: "So much to learn" the most important thing is what Paul posted in #75 - the deep sixes aren't all that safe to drive on. I do not have them on my car. They also cost a lot.

If you are young, restoring this car will be a great project! In just a few decades it will be perfect.

Personally, I would get rid of all the horsehair and use better, modern products. But worry about that after the shell is made intact (I'd stiffen it up as per the TRE done framoboise or fraise car, too). But I am a functionally minded type person not a concoursmobile type. I also started with a hacked up "T" so let Jimminy Cricket's conscience be your guide.