Breaker panel and meter in bathroom?
 

Been looking at this house and did a walk through the other day. They finished the basement sometime in probably the last 5 or 10 years but they built the bathroom where the meter and breaker panel are. It's behind a cabinet door and It is away from the shower and toilet but it's still in the bathroom. Is this ok? Seems to me I would have wanted to move it before finishing the basement... Any ideas what it would cost to move it?

Seems like there would be a lot of moisture buildup in that room to have a panel in there. I'd guess $2K

I looked at a place that has the panel on a inside wall. In the kitchen, behind a upper cupboard. You open the cupboard, move the plates and there is the panel.

I have seen several houses like this - my wife an I rented three in a row where the breaker box was in the "mud room" or the bathroom in between the house and the garage. Currently, our electrical is in the laundry room.

I don't see any particular problem with it - water vapor isn't going to cause a short.

I don't where you are, but around here, building hasn't allow panels in closets, behind cupboards and such for a long time. is that a Sub panel? Use that as a pull box and relocate else should not run too much money. 1500-2500 depending on how much wall the electrician has to rip up.

NEC article 240.24 in 2008 National Electrical Code states no Overcurrent protection devices (which covers breakers and fuses and prevents a sub-panel as well as a service) allowed in bathrooms in dwelling units. (houses, apartments, condos, hotel rooms and so on.)

I would check to see if the owner pulled permits for the work. Could be other things done too that aren't up to snuff, and wasn't inspected. I've fixed a ton of things on my mom's house due to "home-owner specials." I wasn't in the trade for much longer than it took to get my license, so I'm sure someone with more experience knows when the rule first came into effect. I'm sure it's been longer than 10 years though.

I can't venture a guess on price, but using as a junction box seems a legit way to move it without too much of a hassle. How's the access to get your cables out?

If you haven't already, ask if their finishing of the basement was permitted. I wouldn't be surprised that it wasn't, but instead was a homeowner DiY project. But who knows. Some homeowner DiY projects are OK, others, not so much. Ask look 171 about the house my wife and I recently bought and are updating before we move into it. :eek:

Relocating the service will be the big issue.
Being in the basement severely limits the access.
As long as you can get to it, it's not such a big deal.
Relocation cost would be enough to make me leave it. I'm an electrician, I've done these jobs.

Working on old houses is like working on old cars. You don't know what you'll find until you get into it.
Your power company might have a problem with it since youre messing with the meter/service entry.
Many service providers have their own code which is much more stringent than NEC. Find a good contractor in your area. They'll know the deal, and may tell you what I just did.

Carter

I'd be concerned about vapor condensation causing problems...especially if the room has poor ventilation and a shower.

The breaker panel is also full. Ductless AC would be the first project id want to take on with this place. Would either need a new panel or those double breakers. Bottom line sounds to me like it needs to be to me moved.

ledhedsymbols is correct regarding location not permitted. Can you re-arrange or turn the bathroom so that it becomes another room not attached? That way your mechanicals/electricals can be in a space not in a bathroom.
Breaker panels must be accessible (walk right up to and move breakers) NOT behind cabinet panels/locked doors (bathroom door always locks) or clothes closet (sparks on combustibles).
And you wonder why local gov't wants permits? Nobody would of approved a bathroom with a panel in it and probably the plumbing underslab is equally bad plumbing code wise.

This.

You do not want a situation where you need to go back for the permit before you can sell down the road.

The more time that passes the worse it can get for you.

Don't ask me how I know.

Negotiate the price of the work out of the purchase price of the house.

If it's not to code or not permitted or both gives you leverage.

You need to be really careful about buying a problem.

Back on LI it was in ground home heating oil tanks.

I walked on a pretty much perfect house because the seller would not spend the $800 to have two in ground tanks decommissioned before sale.

Before sale was the key. Even if I bought it and had it done 5 minutes after closing on the place if it had already been leaking I bought the problem. Not cheap to remediate.

I am under the impression that this is a sub panel and not the main panel to the entire house? If not, there's always a little more work and a little more to suck the bank account dry.

They said the meter was at the same location, so I assumed a service... OP? Is it a main or a sub?

it is the main panel. There is 1 sub panel in the garage and its only a 40 amp panel.

Thanks for all the help on this you guys. I called around today and it looks like it runs around $3500.00 to relocate.... Apparently it is fairly common. I also found out that if I bury conduit the electric company will run my feed underground for pretty cheap, like 300 bucks.

I work with low voltage but I do not feel like I could relocate a main breaker panel.

How do I find out what permits were pulled? Call the county or city?

Whomever the local jurisdiction is. Could be city, county or state depending on your locality.

Usually Town or City Hall.

Building Dept or Clerk Ofice. Just go in and ask for the permit history, while you are at it get a copy of the survey as well.

Also see if they have a list of things that require a permit.

In my last house permits were required for in ground sprinklers. I ignored that one. What caused me grief was actually caused by the builder before I bought it.

Decks of any height required permits if they were attached to the house but unattached up to 12 inches did not, over 12 did, concrete / brick / paver patios never required a permit.

Where I live now you are supposed to pull a permit to replace a water heater of all things.:rolleyes:

I'll be ignoring that one when the time comes.;)

Well, I guess TX is getting as bad as CA?. We are coming to you very soonSmileWavy

Sounds like a winner, make sure you have two feet of cover to meet code if you use PVC. You may need rigid above ground depending on location too.