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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 5,823
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1997 Dodge Dakota oil pressure?
My GF recently bought a 1997 Dodge Dakota 4x4 with the 5.2 litre V8. Nice truck, well taken care of, but there's a nagging issue.
Oil pressure. We figured it could be a bad oil pressure sending unit, so it's been replaced. Twice, actually. She took it into her mechanic to get checked over, brakes, etc. He replaced the sending unit we put in! She was told he'd hooked up a manual reader, and pressure was reading fine... But still, when the engine is warm and at idle, the truck starts dinging away with oil pressure warnings and the gauge drops to zero. Oil pressure seems fine when it's cold. No knocking or anything though. It drives fine with no unusual noises. Is this a normal thing for these trucks? We're currently running some Seafoam in the crank case, hoping it might dislodge some sludge or something. She also has a 99 Dakota with the V6. This doesn't happen with that truck, pressure is always right around the higher middle range of the gauge.
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'85 911. White - 53,000 miles bought 3-16-07. "Casper" '88 924S. Blue - 120k miles bought with 105k miles. '94 968 Coupe - White - 108,000 miles bought 9-28-17 '09 Cayman - Grey - bought 9-8-20 |
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Still Doin Time
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nokesville, Va.
Posts: 8,225
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How many miles? Does the inside of V/C where the oil filler cap goes look bad? As in sludge?
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Registered
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Location: Seattle
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About 140,000. No sludge.
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'85 911. White - 53,000 miles bought 3-16-07. "Casper" '88 924S. Blue - 120k miles bought with 105k miles. '94 968 Coupe - White - 108,000 miles bought 9-28-17 '09 Cayman - Grey - bought 9-8-20 |
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FUSHIGI
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: somewhere between here and there
Posts: 10,731
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how much trouble would it be to replace the oil pump? Is heavier oil an option? Also just read about a potential problem inside your oil pan that prevents all the oil and debris from draining during oil changes resulting in a plugged pump screen.
Last edited by pavulon; 08-13-2017 at 06:27 PM.. |
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When I was researching trucks, I ran across several mentions of lubrication problems with the Dodge 5.2L engine. There's a tendency for the inlet screen to sludge up. There's also possibility of the inlet oil pump inlet tube developing a leak and sucking air as well as oil pumps wearing prematurely. It might be time to drop the oil pan and investigate.
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1.367m later
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From personal and recent experience. You CANNOT run even the best aftermarket sending units in that motor. It has something to do with how the sending unit reads the low voltage in the pressure switch. Warm at idle the engine develops about 18lbs pressure. Most aftermarket switches won't read below 25lbs accurately so they give a zero reading at the gauge. Install an OEM sender, they're not really very expensive. For more peace of mind I installed a mechanical pressure gauge.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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Still Doin Time
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nokesville, Va.
Posts: 8,225
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Note worthy advice from above. If the issue remains after that and certainly that is the easiest thing to do at this point...........................plan on pulling the pan for a visual inspection.
Typically a clogged or partially clogged oil pump pickup screen will do just the opposite - where you'll have adequate oil pressure at low RPM's but volume / pressure will fall off when driving. If you pull the pan and no obvious signs of screen clogs, pull a main bearing cap preferably towards the front away from the pump. Most likely you'll find you have excessive clearance in the main and rod bearings.
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'15 Dodge - 'Dango R/T Hauls groceries and Kinda Hauls *ss '07 Jeep SRT-8 - Hauls groceries and Hauls *ss Sold '85 Guards Red Targa - Almost finished after 17 years '95 Road King w/117ci - No time to ride, see above '77 Sportster Pro-Street Drag Bike w/93ci - Sold |
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1.367m later
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The oil pump on these motors is up front on the crank snout. Changing the pump is a major task as you'll have to remove the timing chains and crank pulley. You are fortunate in that you can drop the pan on the 4x4, no such luck with a two wheel drive.
Also the hardware on the lower end of these motors are one time use only. If you drop a bearing cap it's best to have the new rod bolts in hand first. The mains are incorporated into the crank saddle so you won't be able to check those individually. Last edited by KevinP73; 08-14-2017 at 10:06 AM.. |
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Registered
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for the insight, Kevin.
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'85 911. White - 53,000 miles bought 3-16-07. "Casper" '88 924S. Blue - 120k miles bought with 105k miles. '94 968 Coupe - White - 108,000 miles bought 9-28-17 '09 Cayman - Grey - bought 9-8-20 |
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1.367m later
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That being the case I suggest installing a mechanical gauge just to be on the safe side.
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non velox ad propitiare, verisimile non oblivisci If it's not The Original Automotive Innovations and Restoration, then it's just hot AIR. |
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