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Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,713
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DIY Paint Polishing/Detailing Questions
Wanting to DIY a mild paint correction/swirl removal/polish on my ’87 944 NA (which was repainted in 1999 via. repriming/painting/clearcoating), I’ve been doing a bit of research into the latest technologies regarding the cleaning, decontamination, polishing, and protecting of automotive paints…and at this point it feels like I’ve achieved both clarity and confusion in about equal measures (kind of like attempting to zero in on the “best” engine oil).
What’s most difficult is honing in on the actual essentials of this process, and not being led astray by what seem to be endless varieties of cleaning agents, purifiers, prep fluids, and the like. To be honest, the retail end of this seems a bit like a snake-oil purveyor’s paradise! At any rate…my car’s paint is in decent shape, generally looking ok as close as about five feet - with a closer look revealing 23 years worth of fine rubs, swirls, light scratches, and some small areas of what appears to be mild hazing/oxidation. From what I can gather, I will be best served (in any case) by first doing a thorough cleaning and decontamination (foam/wash/clay/iso-prep). From here, I’d likely do an exploratory (small area) polish with a DA polisher with mild cut pad and fine compound - and if this isn’t aggressive enough, to ramp up to a heavier pad and compound, and in any case - when all is nice and shiny, to then remove all residue prior to a final sealing/protecting of the paint. I’ll back up here by saying that I’ll either obtain a “practice panel” from a junkyard, or at least start with my sunroof panel - in order to acquire a better feel for what I’m doing. As for paint sealing/protecting, my thinking is that in consideration the above…and all that will be required to achieve good results, I should just go ahead and apply a “true” ceramic (or perhaps graphene-modified ceramic) fluid - as a final, protective coat. Not the plastic spray-bottle variety…but the (more expensive) product contained in a small glass bottle - to be carefully applied with a microfiber “block,” and allowed to cure. In other words, with all of the work involved, why even consider something like a paste-wax or “all in one” spray…which would only afford a limited (time wise) amount of protection? To get started, I’m likely going to choose, in addition to washing/decontamination products, a “kit,” consisting of a decent DA polisher, a few pads, a medium cutting compound and light polishing compound, associated prep and cleaning fluids, microfiber towels and applicators, and likely a small bottle of either a straight ceramic or graphene-incorporated ceramic fluid for a final coat. Looks like if I’m smart about his I might be able to come by everything I’ll need for around three hundred dollars, give or take (I already own a pressure washer). But before I get out my credit card, I’d really like to get a bit of feedback from those on this forum who’ve either already “been there, done that,” or who might still be in the process of trying to figure this stuff out...with a very basic question: am I on the right track? Thanks! Last edited by OK-944; 03-29-2022 at 11:25 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
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I'd try the very fine cut polishing compound, by hand, on the engine lid and see how you get on. It probably only needs a few microns taken off to look great.
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Join Date: May 2008
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Great idea - thanks! I like the idea of hand polishing...which sounds like a great way to at least start in with this - and perhaps to carry through to the finish as well!
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
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I clay bar cleaned the corolla and a couple of friends noticed (who notices anything about a corolla LOL) and asked if I'd had it repainted. Haha, it kind of glowed. I don't think it takes much.
Good luck. |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 766
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Post up some pictures of what you’re dealing with, that will make it much easier to provide suggestions on what steps to take.
Regardless, washing and removing contaminants is always a good first step and a baseline for any polishing. Keep in mind that if you do use a clay bar you will likely create more swirls on the paint so assume you’re next step will be some type of polishing.
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CURRENT: 2011 Boxster Spyder, Sport Buckets, MT, Full Leather, PSE, Basalt Black/Black 1990 964 C2, MT, Marine Blue, Silk Grey/Marine Blue 2024 Macan White, Beige / 2010 Cayenne White, Black PAST: 69 911 Targa, 87 928 MT Marine Blue, 90 928 GT Marine Blue, 90 911 Targa Stone Grey |
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Definitely clay bar first pleaser. You will be surprised at the junk that comes off your paint. It will be glass smooth after.
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'71 914-6 #0372 '17 Macan GTS |
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