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Sleep Deprived and Grumpy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lake Geneva
Posts: 1,575
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Spot Weld Drill Bits
Hey guys I am getting ready to start some serious rust repair, I was curious on the recommended way to remove spotwelded panels?
I know they make specific drill bits, which ones do you use? and what size! Thanks Jon W. |
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I hate freight charges
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I bought this off the Mac tool truck one day. Can't remember how much I paid but I drilled 118 spotwelds that held on my outer rocker with a single bit so it was worth it
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Tom 78 911SC SC to 73RS imposter SCWDP crew #50 and 51 1969 Camaro "The new project"
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: chicago
Posts: 1,077
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i've used the same one but i got it from mcmaster-carr, i think it was $12-13. it works great - the tip in the center is spring loaded to center the bit. you need to be careful not to drill through both panels .
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BMW 128i 73 rsr clone - sold 68 912 project to become 911r (almost done!) |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 689
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I got mine from Eastwood. When I R/R my rockers, it made sense to drill completely through some of the spotwelds, since that will give you a hole through which to weld to the new panel underneath. There are obviously places where it is better to use the cutter, like where the bottom of the outer rocker meets the body. Be sure to think before you drill.
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Steve B. 1972 911t 1999 328is |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 750
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+1
I usually don't drill out my spot welds. I find that it's difficult to drill through only the first panel without hacking up the one behind it. I cut off the panel in question (in an area where a cavity exists in behind) and then grind through the spot welds on the remaining strip of material. Hope that made sense. You've obviously have to be paying attention when you're grinding as well. To cut the panel off I'll usually use a 0.035" zip disk or a pneumatic body saw. This way you've got a fresh start and you're not trying to position your spots where the previous ones were. Some of the factory spot welds get pretty close to the edge of the material (or only catch the edge). This makes it difficult to end up with a nice clean edge on the new panel. I've used similar spot weld cutters as the one above, but I've found that I spend so much time checking and rechecking how deep I've gone, that It's just not worth it to me. I've got a host of pneumatic grinders and cutters (and a large compressor) at my disposal so I can just grind away and it goes pretty quickly. If you've got a drill and a welder, this tool may just be the ticket for you. Tim |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: MS.
Posts: 2,322
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I have seen the kits that have several different size bits/cutters included. I have used some of these spot-weld, weld cutters before. They work fine for most of the times when possibly needed. I have not used them much lately, since I had to cut a lot of welds that had limited clearance issues. I made some wide, short fairly blunt tapered point drill bits, but with a good cutting edge, that I have been using since. I primarily use them when I have to replace panels or whatever else that needs done, when I am rebuilding the old Dodge Trucks that I restore.
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84' Steelslantnose Cab. 1953 Dodge B-4-B-108" 90,127 miles 1953 Dodge B-4-C-116" 58,146 miles 1954 Dodge C-1-B8-108" 241V8 POLY 1973 Roadrunner 440-SIX-PACK* 1986 F-250 Super Cab-460 V8 tow Newest additions- Matching numbers 1973 340 Road Runner!! 1948 Dodge B-1-F-152" 1-1/2 ton Dump body, 39,690 miles others... |
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Sleep Deprived and Grumpy
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Lake Geneva
Posts: 1,575
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Thanks for the tips guys, I am all set with my cutters and grinders and I have ordered one of the pictures SpotWeld bits as an extra tool in the chest!
Thanks for all the advice! Jon W. |
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"farking Porsche hero"
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The best advice I ever got for drilling out spot welds was keep the drill speed down. I burned up a few expensive Eastwood bits before someone shared this with me.
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Rich '66 911 #303872 '07 Cayman '17 Macan '58 Land Rover S2 88" |
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