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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,254
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What welder do you use?
Just curious what welder everyone uses that meets the needs for all their automotive welding needs??
I'm in the market for one and I'm curious what everyone has. I'm overwhelmed with all the different options, types, and rebranded names. I'd like to get one that someone on here has already proven works for the needs of automotive repair. Thanks!
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1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe |
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Miller makes a great welder. Determine what your specific needs are. I am sure Miller has a welder that meets or exceeds your requirements. The 110V welders do a nice job for light sheet metal work. If you are working with thicker material, you may want a 220V welder.
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Project Addicted
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Shore. MD
Posts: 919
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Allie is using a Hobart.
https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/678611-hobart-handler-210mvp-mig-welder.html?feedsource=3&gclid=CjwKEAjwh9PGBRCfso2 n3ODgvUcSJAAhpW5oWHyhYI7GAZrGa5QnjOptIWhsQzKwoqsmY pKnCiox2xoCt5nw_wcB She has used the smaller one and it is very good. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/764170-hobart-handler-140-115v-mig-welder.html
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Jon 1966 912 1976 911 3.4 Backdate Project 1986 944 |
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Dennis, I have a 110 volt,130 amp Cebora MIG welder purchased in 1988 (!). There was much less choice then. It's ok but not as nice as a Miller or similar pro models, but I get better results with it than I used thru continual learning and common sense upgarages like a very tight and beefy ground clamp. Compared to what I did 20 years ago, i also have a good compressor now, too, which is different but related...being able to knock back or finesse metal with a nice die grinder makes all this stuff easier and better.
As the gent above noted, a good 110v machine is fine for lighter work, and I'll refine that by saying it will be fine for all repair on your 911 unibody. If you were to branch out into heavier work, like fabricating roll cages, or tractor repairs, or frame work on an F-150, then a 220v machine would be the better bet. A 110v 130 amp machine does not have the same ability as a strong 220v 130 amp machine. Google "welder duty cycle" to understand why. Mine is pretty crap on the highest setting for this reason. There are pro machines and lesser ones marketed to hobbyists. As jslocum noted, used machines can be a great deal, but with all the sensible caveats about ANYTHING used. I have access to a neighbor's big, honking, older Miller 220v commercial machine that can be used to weld 3/8" plate together beautifully and quickly. Very satisfying. It can also do very fine work, too. But if I were going to replace my old Italian MIG, I'd likely get a new 110v Miller or similar pro-level machine because they are much better than what I have, but still not designed for heavy duty work mentioned above, because that's not my area of interest, so I don't need the firepower of my neighbor's big Miller. Hope that helps. |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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I have had a 110 volt Miller for about 30 years, and it works well. It was one of the first 110 units made, and it was a lot of money back then. There have been times I wished I had a 220 unit, but that 110 Hobart unit is a fine machine. It will do a lot, and it is not a toy.
When I bought mine, 220 was not an option for me. I haven't ever replaced it because it works and I don't use it so much that I need to. It would have been a good investment to buy a 220 volt machine. However, I use it mostly for automotive work, and have never welded a frame, only unibody. If I ever do a hot rod, I would definitely upgrade. Get an auto darkening helmet. Last edited by DanielDudley; 03-26-2017 at 06:38 AM.. |
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I used a millermatic 140 auto set mig welder for all the work I needed to do on my 911. Great matching and perfectly adequate for all the sheet metal repairs you might need to make on your car.
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Philadelphia Area
Posts: 3,720
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Millermatic
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Matt Mariani @the_r_institute Authorized Retailer FIKSE Wheels Mod Italian Wheels Maxilite classic wheels |
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I have a millermatic dvi that is both a 110 and a 220v unit. All I need to do is change the plug on the end of the cord you plug into the wall. No tools, just screws on.
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Chris '75 911s Targa |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Loxahatchee, florida
Posts: 2,894
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miller diversion 180. i had a hobart mig when i originally did my body work but it looked like hell. Tig is much easier and more versitile.
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88 turbo Guards red Targa slant nose, and yes I am a horsepower junkie, 3.4liter,7.5 to 1 JE pistons, Adjustable WUR, Imagine fuel head, 1 bar waste gate headers,allthe cis toys. Now apart to become the next EFI monster. fabbing my own intake, headers Individual throttle bodies, MS-3, pauter rods, Xtreme twin plugged heads, gt-2 evo cams cop's. 2019 Silverado 6.2L |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,567
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Quote:
But mig is 100x easier to use, and way cheaper. If I could only have one, would get a 220 v mig with the spool for aluminum. $600 at Eastwood... |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ormond Beach, FL.
Posts: 436
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In the spirit of full disclosure I have been involved with Cebora for 31 years.
I have a Cebora 172 220V mig welder, Cebora 220V AC/DC Tig, and Cebora 110/220V plasma cutter. The mig and the tig are about 15 years old, the plasma cutter 5 years old. Nice thing about the Cebora mig welders is that they are designed for body work and go down very low on the amp settings making it easier to weld thin sheet metal. Cebora welders are very different today than they were 30 years ago. Bill. |
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