356 better, but still bad - tips?

[Atlantic07]

Thx for all your input.

This is where I am at now with my bad running 356:

The airfilters are clean, the glas fuel filter is clean, fuel is coming. It idles much better - more stable.

It runs extremely good when I push it on the freeway - anytime when I am fast enough to put it in 3rd or 4th gear is good.

2 problems remain:

a) It misses and runs bad taking of and still in 2nd gear (slower speed). only if I push the gas first and let the clutch come slowly, I can take of with some speed.

Am I correct that this might be dirty jets? I attached a pic of my left (driver side) carb - which jets should I clean (1,2,3,4) ? Can I just just unscrew them and clean them and srew them back in?

b) It doesn't start after parking it. I looked at the fuel filter and noticed that the gas - after stopping the car - runs back towards the fuel pump. It doesn't get gas when I start it I think. I have to admit that my battery sucks - should I just get a new one and hope that the engine turn over in the starting process will pump enough gas? Or is something wrong when the filter im empty.

... I realize, I need a repair book

[Les Paul]

One way to tell is when you push down on the throttle linkage as you are looking down into the carb you can see a stream of gas shooting in there. That is coming from the idle jet. Obviously the one that doesn't have a good stream is either plugged or partially plugged.

[denson]

Hi:

Do not rule out the advance on the distributor as part of this problem. If it is a correct Bosch unit, make sure it was rebuilt, and if not Don Marks is the man for that. He re-builds them and they are perfect. He advertises in the 356 Registry magazine. If you are using a Bosch 50 or 009, know that the advance is smiliiar, but not the same, as say, to the Bosch vrj 18.

It is possible there is more than one issue. here.... The optima 6v battery is great and you can get a starter relay kit for that if you like. The 356 Registry "vendor" section to the website is where to look for Joe Leoni. He makes great relay kits for a variety of uses. The gas issue is something else. If the fuel pump is fine and you are not getting gas then trace the line to see where the issue is. Make sure the pump is functioning properly. If the carb are getting the gas, you probably have jetting and other issues.

Good luck

[ed martin]

Yes, don't rule out the distributor advance. You can check the curve with an adjustable timing light. If you don't have one, it's a good time to invest in one. I always use a separate 12V source if you have a 6V set up. It would also be good to invest in a battery recharger. Not only does it recharge but I find it useful in diagnosing problems.

As far as rebuilding the distributor, you can take it apart yourself. Usually the problems lies where the lower shaft fits into the upper shaft (I've never found the springs to be the problem). The felt under the rotor will give you limited access to this area in terms of lubrication. I've found this area to be frozen from corrosion. Take it apart, clean it up and give it a good oiling. Short of that you can subsitute a 009 distributor. Set it to ten degrees advance to compensate for the curve limitation.

Lastly, as a matter of maintenance I think your going to want to really soak and clean your carbs and jets(blast compressed air through all the passages and don't use wire because you can alter the jet openings). The more elements of the system you message the more reliable your car will be overall.

[Atlantic07]

What are they? Any idea?

Yeah, I am planning to go through everything - like taking the distributor apart and checking the timing - I do have a light Thx for this tip!

Here are pics of the carbs:

[Les Paul]

Lets see now, I've been using wire to clean them for nearly 20 years with no problems.

[ed martin]

The reason I say not to use wire is because that's just what the manuals say( they uniformly recommend compressed air). I suppose it's a matter of not that you will ruin the jet, but there's the possibility that you could.

[Les Paul]

I've had mine out so many times I've had to get new ones because the slotted part eventually breaks off after you've spread it so many times to get it to stay in the head of the nut. That is on Webbers, I don't know what the stock ones are like. I have some sitting on a shelf at home and meant to look at them last night, I'll do it tonight.

I actually used to try and blow them out but the crap I've dug out of there at times wouldn't blow out. The only wire I've found small enough is off of a wire brush. They probably make a tool for it but I've never seen one advertised.

[luftgekuhlt]

My 'C' coupe with Webers and Crane electronic ignition was misfiring/balking under load in 4th gear. I reset my static timing which was way off to my surprise. (Gotta talk with my mechanic... oh wait, it's me!) The problem persisted. As I stood there and watched my engine idle trying to think through possibilities, I noticed that my fan belt was dancing a bit between vibrating and running smooth. One washer swapped from inside to outside on the pulley tightened it up and the firing problem went away. What appeared to be a carburetor/fuel problem turned out to be an electrical problem.

[C. Clark]

luftgekuhlt,
Could you explain the washer swap in a little more detail ? I can't figure out why things changed...
Chas.
356
912
911

[id10t]

C. Clark - you need a total of 10 shims on the generator pulley - some inbetween the halves, some between the inner half and rest of the generator. Add/remove shims from between until the proper tension is achieved.

Definately check your timing as well...

[C. Clark]

id10t,
Yes I realize that...... but why would the mis-firing go away by changeing the tension of the fan belt ?
Chas.

[id10t]

If your battery is weak, the belt tension will affect how much juice your generator is putting out, which may (or may not ) affect your regulator, which could affect your ignition...

[C. Clark]

Are you in politics......?
Chas.
356
912
911

[356RS]

To answer your question on the #5 post; The carbs you have are Zenith's. Very good carbs when properly tuned with good running engine.

[Jump2xs]

I know I'm late on this thread but the picture that you posted of the jets you cleaned are not typically the ones that cause problems. The jets you need to check are the idle jets, and the main jets for good measure. These jets are located on the side of the carb and will require cutting off the fuel flow with the under-dash handle because even with the car not running, gravity will cause gas to flow freely. Have some rags handy to soak up the gas that will gush out when you remove the Mains. Keep a fire extinguisher at hand also.
The float level and accelerator pump volume also need to be checked. You should rule out ignition problems first, but it can't hurt to clean the jets right away because they often get clogged and gummed up..particularly when your car sits for a length of time.