What is correct fan color

[proporsche]

Robert mine is an original fan ,mileage is below ...looks just fine....

Ivan

[robertmark]

Thanks for all the pictures and tips for treating my fan, very helpful. With keeping the car all original with lots of patina, I’m definitely thinking clean and Gibbs, as opposed to painting. It’s a tough one, as painted fan and housing looks so good!!

[proporsche]

nice 911 Robert;-)

[Superman]

My fan and housing are in the custody of Shaun at Tru6. I am excited.

[robertmark]

I’m dealing with a one owner survivor. The former owner bought new in 69, drove until 79, and parked it in a barn. I feel like I have one shot to get it right. Since I’m keeping it in current condition, that’s why I’m thinking to just treat the fan and housing as opposed to painting. All the pics and opinions are very much appreciated. Thanks guys!!

[tig]

Here's what my 41k mile '88 fan looks like. I've owned this car since 1997 and been extremely careful in caring for it. I'm now at the point where the look of this is driving me nuts and I want to get it back to looking like it was when new.

None of the examples I've seen above reflect that reality, because the Zinc/CAD color is missing. Not sure how to get that back.

[tig]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

Agree, except, cleaning the mag fan material is a PIA, but worth the effort. The trick is once in a while wipe it with Gibbs to keep the corrosion off. Any coating will chip and look like crap after a while if you drive it much.

Are you talking about THIS Gibbs?

[pkabush]

I was wondering the same thing. For some reason I was under the impression that Gibbs was a cream but, the only product I could find online was the spray can like pictured above.
Anyhow, at $15.00 a can I hope that’s the right stuff.

[911pcars]

To minimize creating preservation folk-lore by repetition and/or anecdotal testimonials, there have been attempts to review various consumer products to find the most effective. Here's one:

Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range

However, their tested-best product was only declared winner after 168 hours. That's only a week of corrosive test days. Thus, it's up to you how you want to address maintenance; by re-application or a back-to-basic refinishing regiment to restore it to a particular "look". The above test included a corrosion test on a static, non-moving piece of metal.

Airplane props blow air. They typically rotate at 2500-3000 rpm, but can be subject to more corrosive ambient conditions than an engine fan blade. Barrier coatings, thermal or cold sprays should last longer in a prop's harsher environment. An answer might be in this Google search: "What protective coating on airplane propellers?"

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&sxsrf=ACYBGNTQi-jfLqlTVUabLmVQcsU35M556w%3A1577485180116&ei=fIMGXobTBof1-gSRvpugBA&q=Typical+airplane+propeller+speed%3F&oq=Typical+airplane+propeller+speed%3F&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30.1483.11821..12229...2.2..0.139.3411. 30j9......0....1..gws-wiz.....10..0i71j35i39j0i20i263j0j0i131j0i67j35i36 2i39j0i22i10i30j33i160.B4KeYHHHhaM&ved=0ahUKEwiGgbKe7tbmAhWHup4KHRHfBkQQ4dUDCAo&uact=5

Sherwood

[skinnerd]

Here's the link on the Early 911 S Registry that will tell you all you need to know about what a fan should look like.
Your mileage may vary....

I'm no fan

By the way, there is no zinc or paint on the fan blades themselves.

[adias]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Robert mine is an original fan ,mileage is below ...looks just fine....

Ivan

Fabulous to see a Carrera with close to 500k miles! Kudos!

[pkabush]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

To minimize creating preservation folk-lore by repetition and/or anecdotal testimonials, there have been attempts to review various consumer products to find the most effective. Here's one:

Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range

However, their tested-best product was only declared winner after 168 hours. That's only a week of corrosive test days. Thus, it's up to you how you want to address maintenance; by re-application or a back-to-basic refinishing regiment to restore it to a particular "look". The above test included a corrosion test on a static, non-moving piece of metal.

Airplane props blow air. They typically rotate at 2500-3000 rpm, but can be subject to more corrosive ambient conditions than an engine fan blade. Barrier coatings, thermal or cold sprays should last longer in a prop's harsher environment. An answer might be in this Google search: "What protective coating on airplane propellers?"

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-ab&sxsrf=ACYBGNTQi-jfLqlTVUabLmVQcsU35M556w%3A1577485180116&ei=fIMGXobTBof1-gSRvpugBA&q=Typical+airplane+propeller+speed%3F&oq=Typical+airplane+propeller+speed%3F&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30.1483.11821..12229...2.2..0.139.3411. 30j9......0....1..gws-wiz.....10..0i71j35i39j0i20i263j0j0i131j0i67j35i36 2i39j0i22i10i30j33i160.B4KeYHHHhaM&ved=0ahUKEwiGgbKe7tbmAhWHup4KHRHfBkQQ4dUDCAo&uact=5

Sherwood

Although the comprehensive test you linked was informative, it may have little to zero use for us. All the products tested were done on steel. Obviously we’re interested in magnesium protection. I didn’t dig to deep into the link about propellers.
Although I have zero experience with Gibbs it seams many here are quite satisfied with the product. I have used Corrosion X for years on my salt water boat motors. And while it’s an excellent product for them I’ve yet to use it on my 930 but, again many here have used it on there magnesium parts and speak favorably about it.

[tig]

I used elbow-grease to get the cosmoline off the fan (brillo pad). I didn't like the way it looked shiny and showed scrub marks. So I did a test on the back using the soda blaster. It worked so well that I went all in. Fantastic. Protected with Gibbs.






The soda blaster didn't do squat against the staining on the housing. I had to go hard with elbow-grease and some 1000 grit sand paper. I'll be honest and admit I didn't clean up all the non-visible areas. I'm quite happy with the outcome as it still looks very 'factory' and not over-restored. I was careful to preserve the remaining CAD plating on the hub, although it's faded a bit with age.











Today, about a year later:

[skinnerd]

Does look great.
Nice job!