Exhaust Stud woes: Longer barrel nuts? 12mm Copper nuts? Options?

[Superman]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Just do the spacers. Even professionals don't like stud replacement much. Don't say you weren't warned.

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

ya know, you can use the wider barrel nuts by holding them with your fingers over the studs, then stick your long 8mm allen tool down the exchanger holes....

LOL. John is a cross between Bruce Anderson and Yogi Berra. Failing to listen to him is a mistake, every time.

[RichPugh]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

ya know, you can use the wider barrel nuts by holding them with your fingers over the studs, then stick your long 8mm allen tool down the exchanger holes....

That was my plan. I just bought a long ball-end 8mm hex. If they don’t work (say of stud is still too long), then I can attempt the 12mm nuts... or find larger spacers. We’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.

[RichPugh]

Originally Posted by Superman

LOL. John is a cross between Bruce Anderson and Yogi Berra. Failing to listen to him is a mistake, every time.

Haha... agreed.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by RichPugh

That was my plan. I just bought a long ball-end 8mm hex. If they don’t work (say of stud is still too long), then I can attempt the 12mm nuts... or find larger spacers. We’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.

I feed the barrel nut under the heat exchanger with some long needle nose pliers. I had one set where the studs were just bottoming out. I got some metal washers and superglued them to each side of the spacer. Gave it the extra turn that I needed to tighten it down.

I had also superglued the exhaust gasket to the head when I was installing the heat exchangers. Not a lot, just a couple drops to keep it in place. The large heat exchanger box blocks out your view and access to the ports. If you have the car on a lift, a transmission deadman is a great extra hand. Pad the metal arm. The exchanger gets heavy pretty quickly.

Get a distributor/ssi wrench for the copper nuts.

[RichPugh]

I’m not proud of how it looks but functionally, it’s good, lol. The barrel nut has 3-4 full turns on it and the hex nuts with the M&K spacers allow for a shallow socket to do the trick. Should be good!

[RichPugh]

oops... pic didn't load. The spacer wasn't large enough on its own to allow the barrel nut to tighten down without the stud pushing the 8mm hex key out so I found some thin jamb nuts that I used as an additional spacer and that gave the barrel nut about 3-4 full turns on the stud, about the exact amount it needed. The hex nut I just used the spacers and was able to snug em down where accessible. :thumbup:

[mb911]

Rich just one note on this is that every single 914-6 exhaust system oem or aftermarket uses a thin flange.

[mepstein]

I think it doesn’t get mentioned much because before Ben’s heat exchangers, most everyone did headers on their 3.0-3.6 conversions. With headers, there is plenty of room to tighten down exhaust nuts. The BB “heat exchangers” have a smaller heat box and are easier to tighten down but don’t provide any real heat so they were never an option for me.

[RichPugh]

Originally Posted by mb911

Rich just one note on this is that every single 914-6 exhaust system oem or aftermarket uses a thin flange.

Oh, please don’t think I’m complaining about your heat exchangers! I’m just complaining and working with my stupid long stud incompatibility, out loud, lol. These headers/heat exchangers are frigging beautiful and I’m psyched to have them. Working thru the mounting issues thru these forums, I figured, could help people in the future. I’ve had nearly split input regarding “swap the studs” versus “space the nuts”. The can of worms that swapping the studs could (probably would) pose seemed easily avoidable by just spacing the mounting nuts. I’m embarrassed that I used an oversized jam nuts in addition to those nice spacers, but hey... Ace didn’t have anything else in stock I could make work! So... whatever works, sometimes, right?!

Originally Posted by mepstein

I think it doesn’t get mentioned much because before Ben’s heat exchangers, most everyone did headers on their 3.0-3.6 conversions. With headers, there is plenty of room to tighten down exhaust nuts. The BB “heat exchangers” have a smaller heat box and are easier to tighten down but don’t provide any real heat so they were never an option for me.

Yea, there wasn’t much info out there so I’m glad I simply asked here. You guys have been super helpful. Greatly appreciated. These heat exchangers are glorious. I wasn’t about to let a few long studs slow me down!

[mb911]

Rich,

I would likely space the studs vs removal unless I was rebuilding the engine. If rebuilding no big deal to replace the studs. You could also cut them shorter with a dremel if you like.

[MBEngineering]

HI RichPugh

you could try some of these, I usualy find they work OK unless the aftermarket exhaust has a tight bend from the flange, also a smaller width size from the Std Porsche one's

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by MBEngineering

HI RichPugh

you could try some of these, I usualy find they work OK unless the aftermarket exhaust has a tight bend from the flange, also a smaller width size from the Std Porsche one's

Who sells them?
Thanks

[MBEngineering]

HI mepstein

I think the clue is on the L/H side of the lable with the part No' on it ;-)

part No' 059 131 529

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by MBEngineering

HI mepstein

I think the clue is on the L/H side of the lable with the part No' on it ;-)

part No' 059 131 529

Yes, see it now on my computer screen. Wasn't big enough on my phone. Thanks!

[RichPugh]

Originally Posted by mb911

Rich,

I would likely space the studs vs removal unless I was rebuilding the engine. If rebuilding no big deal to replace the studs. You could also cut them shorter with a dremel if you like.

Yea, I considered that too... That idea is still on the table. I have a tap/die set and the die can thread onto the stud and I can measure the cut length, cut, then back it off. I thought to us a stainless nut too if my die wouldn't fit but I think it'll be ok.

[RichPugh]

Originally Posted by MBEngineering

HI RichPugh

you could try some of these, I usualy find they work OK unless the aftermarket exhaust has a tight bend from the flange, also a smaller width size from the Std Porsche one's

Oooh! Good into. On it!

[Danimal16]

Originally Posted by MBEngineering

HI RichPugh

you could try some of these, I usualy find they work OK unless the aftermarket exhaust has a tight bend from the flange, also a smaller width size from the Std Porsche one's

I looked up the part number and it appears that the part supplied now has a hex head. The closest I can come to that number is 057 131 529 and it is not clear if this is a hex or barrel/allen head.

What vehicle is the tall exhaust bolt applicable?

Thanks
Dan

[mepstein]

Yea, I’m having trouble finding the VW/Audi barrel nuts.

[MBEngineering]

HI

both the part No's are still available

exhaust nuts from a Audi A6 Avant Allroad V6 Diesel

2003 is the 059 131 529 at M8X15 wide at the base X 21 long

2007 is the 057 131 529 G at M8 X (what looks like) 27 Long,

I will order some today and let you know what turns up, plain nuts or barrel nuts

both priced at £1.98 each + vat =£2.37

Porsche exhaust nut is 999 085 001 02 at £4.82 +vat =£5.78

[Hawkeye's-911T]

Possible 'dumb-a$$' question of the day. If required, do spacers = washers (?) on exhaust studs?
Searched Pelican Parts Catalogue - no luck.

Cheers
JB