Momo Steering Wheel Install, Illustrated

[hatpix]

I did a few searches, but was left unsatisfied, so I documented my install this evening, hopefully it will be helpful to somebody. It is a fairly easy install, took me about an hour to do with one hand. Your results may vary.

First the tools I used. 27mm socket with short extension and a swivel on a big torque wrench. Phillips screw driver. 3mm hex T-handle. Dykes, wire stripper/crimper, electrical tape, crimp eyelet. Optionally you can use a soldering iron, shrink tubing.



Step One. Pull the Horn Relay (your neighbors will thank you). Here it is on my 85 Carrera, yours may look different, consult the owner's manual. Before you go further, Make Sure your wheels are pointed straight ahead.



Step Two. Remove the horn pad by pulling up on either corner. Wiggle gently, it should pop off with minimal force.



You should see this underneath, the 27mm nut that holds the wheel on.

Step Three. Using your torque wrench, breaker bar or socket wrench with extension, gently apply pressure until nut releases. As I did this alone, I used the steering wheel lock, and did it very slowly to make sure I didn't break the lock. You can have a friend hold the wheel in place, or brace it with something. The nut released fairly easily, and I unscrewed it the rest of the way.



Step Four. Using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the turn-signal cancelling ring from the back of the stock steering wheel.



Step Five. The existing Porsche Horn wire has a small crimp tab on it, Momo uses a larger one, and provides you with it. You will need to cut off the Porsche one and solder on the Momo. Alternately you can snip off just the crimp and attach a larger crimp eyelet, this is what I chose to do.





Step Six. Using the three Momo supplied screws, attach the turn-signal cancelling ring to the back of the Momo hub. The horn wire will go through the hole (you'll see).



Step Seven. Put the Momo hub on the spline, but do not push it down all the way. Once its on, its not easy to pull off, so for now leave about a half inch gap between the hub and the column.



Step Eight. Once you're sure everything has gone well with wiring the horn button, and you've mocked up the wheel and it looks straight, go ahead and tighen the 27mm nut to 50ft lbs on the old torque wrench. Attach the wheel to the hub with the six supplied screws using the 3mm hex wrench. Take it for a test drive, if the wheel is straight and the horn works (don't forget to reinstall the horn relay), go back and put some Green Loctite Threadlocker on those six screws.



Please let me know if I've forgotten anything and I will amend the post.

[WPOZZZ]

Great write-up! I just did that on my 85 Carrera on Friday. Total PITA as I kept forgetting something so I had to take those screws off several times.

[dickster]

Nice write up, similar to mine although yours has more detail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=138526&highlight=idiots+guide

[charleskieffner]

release torque tension on really nice high $$$ proto torque wrench. check out re calibration costs.

[KNS]

Nice write-up with pics, you never want to loosen or break nuts with a Tq wrench though...

[Wil Ferch]

Concur nice write up...

however....small but important point....

never loosen the steering wheel nut against a "locked" steering wheel...the mechanism can indeed be damaged. Better to brace the wheel somehow and not force against the steering lock...

Otherwise...fantastic incl the pics !

- Wil

[Zeke]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
Concur nice write up...

however....small but important point....

never loosen the steering wheel nut against a "locked" steering wheel...the mechanism can indeed be damaged. Better to brace the wheel somehow and not force against the steering lock...

Otherwise...fantastic incl the pics !

- Wil

+1. A club anti theft device works perfectly for a one-man installation.

[hbkramer]

make sure to temporiarly mark the steering column at 0 degrees or 12 o clock to make sure the Momo Wheel and splines splines go on exactly at the 12 o clock position .

[Nine9six]

Originally posted by charleskieffner
release torque tension on really nice high $$$ proto torque wrench. check out re calibration costs.

Now there's an eye for detail. Always release the tension on your torque wrenches when the job is through.

[spiff]

One other small note: You should never use a torque wrench to loosen a nut. It's only meant for tightening. Always use a normal wrench or even better a breaker bar....

[hatpix]

Originally posted by spiff
One other small note: You should never use a torque wrench to loosen a nut. It's only meant for tightening. Always use a normal wrench or even better a breaker bar....

Ok, I'm new to this, why? If the nut is supposed to be torqued to 50#, can't I set the torque wrench to say 75# to undo it?

[hatpix]

Originally posted by dickster
Nice write up, similar to mine although yours has more detail.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=138526&highlight=idiots+guide

Yes, nearly like mine, I guess I didn't key in the right words in the search field to find it. My error.

[Cattler]

Used this procedure tonight--it was even better than the Italian picture instructions in the box! I soldered my horn wire together with the Momo connector and then used wire shrink wrap over the connection. Altogether took about 45 mins. This is the Momo Retro.

I had the optional stock extended hub with the 4-spoke wheel. I'm very happy with the clearance with the Momo hub and probably won't install the eccentric hub extender.

I do think I need to move it a spline to the left, though. Looks perfectly straight when the car is stopped, but when I'm driving I notice its cocked a bit over to the right.

David

[efhughes3]

An impact wrench works well for nut removal.

[dlague]

I did not like the positioning of the Momo wheel so I modified the hub by cutting off the crush section and using a Smart racing spacer......much better for my seating position taste.

[JMPRO]

I am beginning to think that Momo has screwed up the specs on the hubs. This is the third time recently, including mine that I have heard about the wheel being off center and no amount of jumping back and forth on the splines will make it right. I removed my old wheel that was perfectly straight and put on the Momo hub and wheel and no amount of ajustment will make it right . One spline to the right is too much, one spline to the left is to much. Could it be the hubs are splined just a few degrees off. I know about adjusting the steering rods, I just think it shouldn't have to be done. If the old wheel was straight then the new one should be too.

[SpeedracerIndy]

Originally Posted by JMPRO

I am beginning to think that Momo has screwed up the specs on the hubs. This is the third time recently, including mine that I have heard about the wheel being off center and no amount of jumping back and forth on the splines will make it right. I removed my old wheel that was perfectly straight and put on the Momo hub and wheel and no amount of ajustment will make it right . One spline to the right is too much, one spline to the left is to much. Could it be the hubs are splined just a few degrees off. I know about adjusting the steering rods, I just think it shouldn't have to be done. If the old wheel was straight then the new one should be too.

I agree. My wheel was perfectly straight until I installed the momo hub. The only way I could get it straight was to adjust the tie rods. Major PIA!

[JP911]

A few dabs of grease on the splines is also helpful. Makes it easier to install the hub and to remove it again if you need to re-align.

[porschenut]

Originally Posted by hatpix

go ahead and tighen the 27mm nut to 50ft lbs on the old torque wrench.

Correction needed here - it's 50 Nm, not 50 ft-lb. 50 Nm = 36 ft-lb so you significantly over-tightened.

[James Brown]

what are the buttons used for on the wheel?