Problem bleeding the brakes

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

No problem.

One other tip (just the! ) to mention is that it is good to wrap a rag around the cap on the reservoir - just in case a little fluid is pushed out past the cap seal (if air pressure is a little too high, the seal isn't the greatest, etc.).

Also, as you've probably figured, you have to keep a close eye on the fluid level - moves fairly quickly, but not ridiculously so. That's why an airgun works so well - you can shut the air supply off instantly by releasing the trigger. I use a strip of Velcro wrapped around the gun to hold the trigger down while I check out the flow from whichever caliper I have open (a rubber band works, too) - that way you can start the air, and then walk to the caliper to see what is happening.

now yir just showing off... its like miagi started in on brakes...

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by juanbenae

now yir just showing off... its like miagi started in on brakes...

I've got something to show you, Tobz!!!

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

I had a car that would not get firm, and it was the master cylinder.

I tried fluid suction that pulled the fluid.
That was total garbage.
Pushing the fluid is the accepted way, either by Motiv or pedal.

hey! everybody!!

shug's back from his most recent week or so banning for bad behavior in name calling and/or duchie-ness. he'd see me welcoming him back, but im on his ignore list reportedly....

im sure he peeks from time to time...

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Hey Tobz, speaking of showing off, remember a certain someone who internet-diagnosed yer 911's cracked cylinder, like a BOSS?!?!

[adias]

If using a Motive pump what do you use to clamp the release tubing? Forceps?

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by adias

If using a Motive pump what do you use to clamp the release tubing? Forceps?

Vice grips work well for that.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Canada Kev

Vice grips work well for that.

I use two chucks of wood (prevents damage to the line) and vise grips to close the line.

[al lkosmal]

Gravity bleeding works well....and you can work on something else while it is bleeding.

regards
al

[mobius911]

OP, did you also rebuild the calipers and install new seal rings and dust boots? When I did that recently, the new dust boots were stiff enough that they would pull the pistons back extra far, so that the first pedal application was really soft and almost to the floor. Once stretched out (wedging the brake pedal down overnight worked) the pedal firmness came right back.

[Steam Driver]

For closing the vent line a small C clamp works well too.

Whatever you use it needs be able to apply some force as the vent line is thick wall and by this time hardened with age. (Too bad we don’t do that . . . )

[911pcars]

Air bubbles during gravity bleeding:

Motive power bleeder, works every time. ....

..... sometimes too good. It also does a fine job of transferring expensive brake fluid through the system into a drain bucket. Meanwhile, system air bubbles seem to travel at their own speed.

Sherwood

[NYNick]

I've bled my 72's brakes 4 times using a Motive. Still have spongy feel, kinda like Ronnies blow up doll or Sugardopes brain.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by NYNick

I've bled my 72's brakes 4 times using a Motive. Still have spongy feel, kinda like Ronnies blow up doll or Sugardopes brain.

Easy fix for me - just buy a new one when the sponginess gets irksome!

But about your brakes - are you pumping the pedal from time to time (bleed fittings closed, of course) during the process? That helps move some trapped air along.

Besides, non-turbo 911s don't really need brakes (aka - they're soooo faaaccckkkiiiiinnnnn sloooooowwwwwwwwwwwww - just like the gravity bleed method!!!!)!

[911pcars]

In a closed system, air bubbles tend to stay where they are. Only when fluid flows or the system recognizes gravity will bubbles tend to follow.

In some cases, internally swollen (constricted) flex brake lines will restrict fluid flow while inhibiting slower moving air bubbles, reducing the effectiveness of most manual or pressurized bleeding operation.

[sugarwood]

Anyone feeling motivated to make this?
If so, please list the exact part numbers you buy from Home Depot

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/427910-5-pressure-bleeder.html

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Anyone feeling motivated to make this?
If so, please list the exact part numbers you buy from Home Depot

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/427910-5-pressure-bleeder.html

exact numbers? come on shug…. you'd need to determine what quick disconnect air fittings you use so each application would not be exact.


one size does not fit all.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by NYNick

I've bled my 72's brakes 4 times using a Motive. Still have spongy feel, kinda like Ronnies blow up doll or Sugardopes brain.

Raw needs more air in his application. You've got too much in your system. Did you try the caveman foot pump technique?

[1979-930]

And the super simple attachment. Just turn your compressor reg down to 15psi and wire the blow gun open.



And even with this I had a hard time getting all the air out of a completely new system. Air pockets kept showing up.
It took two or three different evenings of going through all four corners to get it right.

[BK911]

I use the compressor method, but only at about 5psi. Like others have said, gravity works fine. But a little extra works a little quicker. I also use a drain bottle a bit smaller than the MC, so I can't drain the MC.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

The next time I do brakes I think I'll hire pNutz - hooking his saucy lips up to the res ought to make quick work of the job! And if he needs help, Deez will be happy to ablige!!!