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Need some help - looking for banana arm bolts

We're replacing the trailing arms on my buddy's 72 911T with some later aluminum arms. One of the bolts holding his original trailing arms in place need to be replaced. We would like to order two new ones. They're grade 8 bolts I think. Unfortunately, both Pelican and Stoddard say these bolts are NLA.

Any ideas?

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76 912E RS (i.e. "Real Slow"); 63 Volvo P1800 "S"; 71 Jaguar XJ6 Series 1; 05 GT3; 23 Cayman GTS 4.0; 97 Boxster
Old 03-16-2021, 10:42 AM
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Porsche is a middle man. It doesn't manufacture threaded fasteners. Contact a source whose business is fasteners or has a large supply/source. e.g. Belmetric, McMaster, BoltDepot, etc.

If you have the specs, Google search or otherwise.

Sherwood
Old 03-16-2021, 01:08 PM
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Looks to be M14 x 1.5 x 75 or 80.

Belmetirc has the 80mm long in a 10.9 but not the 75.

Good luck.
-Dave
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Old 03-16-2021, 01:44 PM
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KTL KTL is offline
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I'm not advocating spending $100 on two bolts. But in case anybody else searches this thread and complains the bolts can't come out (or need to be cut) because they're unwilling to remove the transmission? WEVO created these

https://www.wevo.com/Products/SuspensionProducts/WevoSuspensionProducts-EZPins.htm
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Old 03-16-2021, 03:01 PM
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Not sure why they are telling you these are NLA...below is the link for the 80mm M14 bolts. I just replaced these on my 1976 car which had M14x1.5x75mm bolts that were Grade 10.9. These replacements were Grade 8.8.

Given it's still a Porsche part number, I'm sure grade 8.8 is fine.

I went with the 5mm longer bolts as I was using a distorted thread 14mm thick lock nut. The OEM lock nut is sort of thin, so the extra length isn't needed I guess.

900-082-092-02-OEM - M14x1.5x80mm Bolts
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Old 03-16-2021, 03:09 PM
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Thanks guys! This proved helpful. As usual.
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76 912E RS (i.e. "Real Slow"); 63 Volvo P1800 "S"; 71 Jaguar XJ6 Series 1; 05 GT3; 23 Cayman GTS 4.0; 97 Boxster
Old 03-17-2021, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAJon View Post
Not sure why they are telling you these are NLA...below is the link for the 80mm M14 bolts. I just replaced these on my 1976 car which had M14x1.5x75mm bolts that were Grade 10.9. These replacements were Grade 8.8.

Given it's still a Porsche part number, I'm sure grade 8.8 is fine.

I went with the 5mm longer bolts as I was using a distorted thread 14mm thick lock nut. The OEM lock nut is sort of thin, so the extra length isn't needed I guess.

900-082-092-02-OEM - M14x1.5x80mm Bolts
Thanks for the info i will try to figure it out for more

visit official site

Last edited by Prohaska; 03-18-2021 at 10:50 PM..
Old 03-17-2021, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTL View Post
I'm not advocating spending $100 on two bolts. But in case anybody else searches this thread and complains the bolts can't come out (or need to be cut) because they're unwilling to remove the transmission? WEVO created these

https://www.wevo.com/Products/SuspensionProducts/WevoSuspensionProducts-EZPins.htm

this is a hollow pin with inner thread so you can insert a bolt from either side to mount?

clever... but: is this realy solid enough?
there is quite some twist and pull forced there...
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Old 03-19-2021, 04:13 AM
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I wish the factory used 'ez-pins'
The factory bolts are a pain to get at with the transmission in place.
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:24 PM
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Is anyone using the wevo control arm bolts? I love the idea but the clamp load potential of the M14 bolt is way higher than the WEVO bolts
Old 03-19-2021, 04:14 PM
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I have a set of the WEVO EZ pins on hand if anybody would like to see additional pictures of them. I got them to use in my racecar for just the reason they were designed- EZ trailing arm removal w/out the transmission getting in the way.

I tend to think Hayden at WEVO didn't create these pins for convenience w/out actual design parameters to account for the forces involved. I'll ask if he'll chime in with some background on how he designed these.
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Old 03-23-2021, 06:58 AM
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Hayden at WEVO is a very experienced and accomplished technical expert. And with pro racing experience, for example in sports car racing (GrandAm and likely IMSA) and IndyCar.

Experienced, accomplished, meticulous... et cetera. Few that make and sell aftermarket products like shifters, shift couplers and all of the other types of products in the WEVO range have his level of pro racing experience.

Not talking about pro racing customers, but actually experience working in a technical capacity on pro racing teams. Like Brumos.
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Old 03-23-2021, 10:26 AM
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I'm sure that Hayden knows what he is going and no doubt there is a convenience factor. But what about the clamp load? Clamp load is what holds the joint together.

Current bolt M14-1.5 grade 8.8? - @75% proof is capable of 56Kn
WEVO pin (M10-1.5 grade 8.8 - @ 75% proof is capable of 26Kn

Is this one of those scenarios when the racing team retorques this at the end of every race or are there street cars using these
Old 03-23-2021, 01:17 PM
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The wevo pin is on the left. The m14 bolt that I'm considering is on the right.

Old 03-23-2021, 01:20 PM
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What parts are we clamping together? It's a control arm that rotates partially through a limited range of motion inside of a U-shaped bracket welded to the torsion tube. The bolt isn't in tension except for the suggested tightening torque.

Is it not a pivot pin that shouldn't drop out? If so, it should be strong enough and have the proper torque applied so as not to. Oh, and the factory bolt and nut was less expensive but installed backwards, a cruel joke if the objective was to easily remove for service.

Sherwood
Old 03-23-2021, 03:41 PM
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Correct, double shear, not tension.

Likely not cruel joke, lol. More likely they had one of those "cultural/technical" PAG reasons back in the day, lol.

In today's world, design elements and/or assembly procedures that are not DIY friendly can perhaps more often be attributed to the desire to drive all service to dealers. Not DIYers or independents, lol.
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Old 03-23-2021, 04:34 PM
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Most likely not a corporate joke. Germans engineers usually don’t do that. Most likely a more efficient assembly line procedure. It’s not beyond the scope of independent repair shops or diy’ers. It’s just a $400-$600 bill to R&R a bolt.

Old 03-23-2021, 06:14 PM
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