Add second oil filter? - Page 2

winders · 12-08-2021, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian c2

Ot , but what starter are you using Scott ?

It’s a Hi-Torque IMI-101N…..

ian c2 · 12-08-2021, 05:55 PM

Any install or reliability issues ?

winders · 12-08-2021, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian c2

Any install or reliability issues ?

No. The Hi-Torque IMI-101N and IMI-101 starters are great and bolted right up.

Many years ago I had a problem with a Factory ring gear that was heat treated to be too hard. Teeth broke off. I replaced it with another Factory ring gear and had the same problem. There was at least one other person here on Pelican that had the same problem. They were not using a Hi-Torque starter.

I bought a Kennedy Engineering ring gear and never had a problem again. I think the other person did the same and that solved his problems as well.

ian c2 · 12-08-2021, 06:34 PM

Good info .
Thank you sir .

Cheshire Cat · 12-09-2021, 09:54 PM

Just FYI of taormina racing. Got their oil filter console a few months ago with no problems. A bit slow though but this days what's not

regnihe · 01-21-2022, 03:15 AM

Against the recommendations of some, I went with the Taormina part. I will post pictures once installed. We will carefully look at the airflow and fab up some parts if needed.

Question. Can someone explain what I need to do with the thermostat on the engine. Mine currently has a plate over the top. Do we need to just pull that thermostat or do we need to replace the thermostat with the part referenced above from JB Racing? If we need to replace it, why? I'm interested to know how it works. Thanks for any insight. Don

stownsen914 · 01-21-2022, 05:37 AM

Normally the thermostat on the engine is replaced with a diverter like JB sells. The thermostat is intended to redirect the oil when it's cold to not pass through the oil cooler that mounts on the engine, to avoid blowing out the cooler. I believe the factory replaced the thermostat when they deleted the cooler.

You do need to put something in there to replace the thermostat to direct the oil properly (and keep it in the engine

)

dannobee · 01-21-2022, 06:33 AM

You can also take apart the stock thermostat and modify it so that all of the oil gets routed through the cooler ports.

If you try to just run a plate on top of the case, the oil won't be directed through the cooler. It will just come up from the J-pipe and go out into the passage that feeds the main galley, without any oil flow in and out of the cooler ports.

regnihe · 01-21-2022, 07:26 AM

I talked to the guys at JB Racing and ordered the bypass.

Dannobee-- No cooler in my application. It's been replaced with an oil filter consol.

dannobee · 01-21-2022, 02:55 PM

Yes, I know, but you can still use the t-stat and modify it to correctly direct the oil flow. Instead of going through a cooler, yours goes through a filter console. It's an old racer trick.

stownsen914 · 01-21-2022, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannobee

Yes, I know, but you can still use the t-stat and modify it to correctly direct the oil flow. Instead of going through a cooler, yours goes through a filter console. It's an old racer trick.

I did that on my first race engine. Swapped out the gutted t-stat for a diverter at some point.

regnihe · 02-13-2022, 04:48 AM

I figured I would share our solution. We ended up buying the non factory part. Like was mentioned above we were not happy with the lack of air flow control. We took a factory oil cooler that was leaking and rebuilt it. We also wanted to retain the factory S-line. Pictures below show the part we made and how we built and supported the original oil hose. It looks like we have easy access for filter changes and the air will be properly routed to the rear cylinder. Comments and suggestions always welcome.