Throttle bell crank bushings

[Goosh]

1983 911SC - replacing throttle bell crank bushings seemed easy enough ... not!! I removed the bell crank, the old bushings fell out and I tapped in the two new bushings - whoops, because the new bushings ID was smaller, I could not get the bell crank back on the shaft - had to Dremel the inside bushing out and then reinstall by replacing the bushing on the throttle shaft first and then slipping the bell crank on to the new bushing with a few taps.
Beware - easy job made difficult - install outer bushing in the bell crank shaft and replace the inside bushing on to the throttle shaft and then slip on bell crank.

Thought someone my want to know.

Goosh

[easelboy1]

I know this is an old post but it was what I used as a starting point when I upgraded my throttle bell crank to the brass bushings.

Problem is alleviated by removing shaft that the throttle bell crank rotates on. This will also allow you to remove the bell crank that is blocked from a simple slide-off by the control arm. The shaft in question:




I have seen some posts recommending the use of a vise grip to remove this component. I found that an 8mm wrench at the cotter pin end will suffice and not tear up the shaft like you can see has happened to mine (silly PO!).




I did also have to chase the crank insides to fit the brass bushings in. This may not be necessary with the plastic part. Used a dremel grinding bit.




Then tapped them in...




I then reconnected the bell crank to the engine side throttle linkage and put crank, bushings and shaft on as a unit. No issues of blockage.

A little grease and a cotter pin and now the pedal feels like a dream!

[AlfonsoR]

Got to do mine this weekend.

[Flat6pac]

The bushings on the bell crank on top of the engine are smaller..and in need of repair too.
Bruce

[KTL]

On the 915, is the hole blind or does it go all the way thru inside the case? Meaning when you remove the shaft is the threaded hole open to the inside of the trans and therefore gear oil leaks out of the tranny? I know the hole goes all the way thru on G50 transmissions.

[surflvr911sc]

Yes, it's blind machined into the case and is not open to the case interior.

[Vintage56]

I replaced the two plastic bushings today on my '73 911 bell crank. The original plastic bushings finally crumbed. I used 2 new plastic bushings purchased from our host. The install is simple and straight-forward. However, for those attempting to do this on a fully-assembled car with the left trailing arm of the suspension in place, an additional step is necessary.

The issue I ran into was once the cotter pin and outer washer are removed and you disconnect the ball cup from the link from the gas pedal, the bell crank itself will not be able to slide out all of the way to the left to clear the rod that the bell crank slips onto. At least this was my experience with my 911. The only way to remove the bell crank itself is to remove the rod that is bolted into the engine crank case as described above in prior posts. I just wanted to clarify the procedure for others attempting to do this simple job since the prior posts may have implied this to be necessary, but wasn't clear to me anyway until I went to actually do the job.

As noted above, the rod itself requires an 8mm open wrench to remove it, but you have to lubricate the the rod where it meets the engine and let is sit for a time before attempting to unbolt it. The entire rod, inner washer, and bell crank need to be removed together to clear the trailing arm. Then you can separate the bell crank from the link to the MFI above, clean up the bell crank, replace the 2 bushings, lube it, and reinstall the rod, inner washer, and bell crank together as one unit. Lastly, I installed the outer washer and cotter pin. Also, while it was apart, I removed the ball socket from the link from the gas pedal, cleaned it up on the wire-wheel, removed 45 years of dirt and gunk, and reattached the ball socket to the bell crank.

It's a straight forward job as noted. Enjoy!

[Flat6pac]

Just a note about the bell swivel
I did the bushings on my brothers G50 and unlike the 915 the pin screws into the case goes into the oil area.
Bruce

[cky3396]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

I’m going to add my 2 cents after completing this bushing replacement with engine in.

The bell crank itself came off pretty easily after cotter pin and ball joints disconnected. Without intact bushing on the trans side there is enough play to angle the thing off and avoid the suspension arm.

Cleaned everything up real nice with a scotch bright and brake clean where needed.

Now the order of operations…

Grease everything up nicely

Slip first bushing onto the pivot post by itself

Reattach throttle bar
Slide bell crank on without bushings

Tap bell crank into the first bushing with dead blow until fully seated

Tap second (outer) bushing in with block of wood to get it started into bell crank

Finish off bushing using a socket matching diameter of outer lip of bushing until fully seated

Reattach ball link and washer/cotter pin.


This was using plastic bushings.

Might help someone else out in future. No need to unscrew the pivot post from trans.