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Then I put the guide rail plane at a slight angle and voila - no problem. Also the Shell command has its limitations, when you hollow out a lofted solid and join it to conventional parts - even though they are joined - F360 decides you can't fillet the combined edges. Makes no sense...but ah well. By the way, Grok AI is far, far, far more useful for learning stuff - just pose your question in plain English and you get a great document how to do it with huge detail D. |
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Or one could just redo the whole lofts so that it narrows/curves past the distributor in an appropriate way. Or make a removable section that was more tightly fit to the distributor... Sigh, one of the problems with now being able to do this, you basically can fiddle endlessly to get what you want... I am actually thinking of fitting a flapper valve to shut off air when there is no call for heat....yet another mod to this monstrosity which is already amazingly complex. D. |
Heater Duct
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The final version is just printing, I will show it mounted and we can go from there. D. |
Well, here is the final version on the engine.
I decided not to try to print the elbows which take it to the actual crosspipe along with the section pictured as a single piece, at least until I have the engine fully assembled and I can make sure everything is clocked properly. There will, of course, be a TPU gasket which interfaces between the ABS duct and the stainless steel crosspipe where it goes through the engine tin. I'll probably just glue the final elbows and spacers in place, easy enough to do by printing up a small lip so they stay on axis and I will use good ABS glue which is pretty strong stuff. It was far, far, far more work than I expected and as I told two lady friends of mine, it has more curves than both of them put together! All done though....now just try and make my custom engine tin work... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748727541.jpg D. |
That looks really sharp! You might want to use PA6-GF or CF or PAHT-CF as the deflection point of ABS is about 89C.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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My line of reasoning for using ABS was: 1. The original factory part was ABS 2. It has cool fan blown air continuously blowing around it 3. Its touch points with the engine block is only the small tab on the bottom and the fact that it rests on the block only on a thin edge....so not much room for heat transfer. Definitely we shall see..... D. |
As I noted before with my heat duct -- check the bolts frequently. The heat causes the ABS to soften and warp, then the bolts back out.
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I have found that more wall loops (Bambu default is 2) the better the part is. I used 5 on this part which means the thinner sections are almost solid ABS. I also made the inner fill 75% up from the default 15% which also makes it much denser. Not sure if my approach will help, but I definitely will keep a good eye on it until I know one way or the other.. D. |
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I also made a full right side duct, not just the insert part. That actually touches the head and I didn't even try to run it given that the insert (that goes inside the metal) warped. Maybe PAHT would have worked. |
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I made up some little brackets to mount the 993 brake ducts to the SC control arms. I made the clips through Xometry, SLS in Nylon 12. They needed some heating to open the brackets up so they'd fit over the arm, but they have a really good hold on the arm and I've run these things up past 120mph on track with no issues. I'm happy that the little hex-head recess actually held the M6 bolt head enough to torque it up.
I had some old rubber clamps before this that let the ducts flop around and get rubbed by the tires, this is much better. Lost the photo of the front clip, this is the rear which has an offset to push the duct out towards the hub. The front doesn't have an offset. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748872296.jpg |
Made this today. Its a tool for adjusting camber using your phone. Works for both front and rear.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749202849.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749202849.jpg |
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something all the track guys should have |
Oil funnel
Here's a link to my 3D printed oil funnel design: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o7to9qklx5vzdl7ddp0xp/Oil-funnel.3mf?rlkey=8y3uxgafmmy5kynkzlhmliiz2&dl=0
Here's a link to the end caps that prevent leaks:https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l9h6mcxn0aqiozo1cy5eg/FunnelCaps.3mf?rlkey=xry9v269vsz8bgwlwqvkk0pmy&dl= 0 Print the funnel in PLA/your favorite material and the end caps in TPU. If you print them in a rigid material they might not come off as the tolerances are designed for TPU. This fits cars with ITBs/carbs. Probably other cars but I didn't test. |
These past 16 pages have been awesome. Had a printer a few years ago during Covid. Ended up making a ton of mask extenders for the local hospitals. Then it sat and we sold it. Just got another one, and really need to find a file for my sun visor on my 1988 930. Any ideas where to source one??
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1754426364.jpg |
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I'm a big fan of Fusion 360. Six months in and I can design and print most anything on my Ender 3 v3 se. (with a few upgrades). Fusion is free for the hobby version, you should check it out.
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