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Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 26
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911 striker plate
Just bought the striker plate kit with white plastic parts, and gasket that goes against the door jamb. Is this a difficult job? Is there a lot of tweaking to get the proper click?
I'm using original parts, other than rebuild kit. Thanks |
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One pin to drive out, then rotate one half of the assembly to get the new pieces in. I think a vice or large c clamp is needed for this job. Not hard at all. You do need the right bit (star?) to remove the striker from the car.
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Gulf Coast FL
Posts: 1,501
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Fairly easy to do. If the striker bolts are not rusted in place.
You can lube them from the backside in the wheel well prior to loosening. |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Easy job. To maintain door adjustment and find the proper "twang," outline the striker plate with a pencil on the door jam. That way you can at least start from where you were. If you don't have what you want, loosen the bolts & tippy-tap with a hammer to move the striker plate around a little bit.
Find the correct "star" socket before you start. The set is pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 26
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Awesome advice, thanks guys!
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 14,040
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You drive out the two small pins then rotate the assembly.
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Prope bit to remove plate is an M8 Triple Square.
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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I fought to get the old pieces out. It wouldn't swing open. Finally got it to swing open, but there is no way with new plastic pieces in place, I can get it to swing shut. I removed the two pins, lubed it up good, but the plastic is so thick, I can't get it to close up. Parts are correct. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Dirt/ grime/rust/ bead blasting can make the assembly difficult to rotate. I soak them in a mild acid before plating and they rotate easily. Try cleaning the pivot area either ultra sonic, or a solution that won’t damage finish if your not replating.
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Join Date: Mar 2021
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It swings very freely, the problem is getting it over the brand new thick plastic, where the mounting screws go through.
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Sand it
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I can't get the barrel over the plastic. Do you have to put in vice and just force it???
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I figured this job job would have been easy task, but now I see that’s why they offer complete striker replacement units. Looks like plates need to be pried up ever so slightly not to deform them then rotated back into final position. Did you see this post…
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/806739-plastic-pieces-door-striker-plate-replaceable-2.html |
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
Posts: 5,499
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Can't you rotate the top steel part so the downward bump in your pic is over free air, put the plastic in under it and then rotate both the plate and the plastic back into position? Actually, you may want to invert everything so that bump is facing upward and you drop the plastic onto it.
It's been a while since I did mine so I don't really remember for sure.
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Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone Last edited by Paulporsche; 11-25-2022 at 01:53 PM.. |
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I did it about a year ago and don't remember it being particularly difficult. The whole process took me a half hour start to finish.
Can you double check you got the right part? Compare the new piece to the old one as yours looks too thick. If here is nothing left of the old, compare to the striker on the other side.
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Join Date: Dec 2014
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Where did you get that kit from? Plastic looks different and it’s too thick.
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