![]() |
The lip on yours definitely looks like it sticks out more
|
mine is a '69 tub and the body flange been abused. On one I could use the new seal I bought form our host. Had to place the top where I thought the flange is and push the seal back with the back lip of the headlight assembly, then with my hand strike the ring with a bit of force pushing down and a bit back. The lower screw then cinched the assembly to the body.
The driver's side fought me greatly. Had to use the old seal that was thinner than the new one. Could not get the top to seat even using my hand pressure as noted above with the thicker seal. A caution; use the right length screw at the bottom to hold the unit. I had a shop install the H4's before I went to Carmel in August and when coming to a fairly abrupt stop the right headlight assembly including the tab left the car. (some may remember my posts about welding or JB weld of the tab). The screw was contacting the body transmitting vibrations into my 53 year old spot weld that secured the tab that broke the welds. |
The H4’s that I have are very early ones. The fit is pretty snug, I chase the threads on the lower tab with a tap prior to installing.
|
Was considering this kit for a 964 - thoughts?
https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD63191101/euro-h4-headlight-conversion-kit-911-912-964-965-bosch.html |
Quote:
Where in WPB are you? |
Pic
Bill,
I think these retaining springs maybe in the way, preventing me from mounting them. I picture of the back would help Im in Stuart. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670698301.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670698321.jpg |
Yeah, you gotta get creative with the springs and move them to not create interference. Also, your mounting tabs may need to be bent back for clearance. Some do, some do not, but between adjusting screws on the H4s, the clips above and assembly ring aftermarket sizing differences, this can be a really unfulfilling circus. I will be on my third act this winter, but now better understand the battle ahead, so will be mentally prepared (more beer on hand).
|
Here's how I got mine installed after many tries over many months -
1. Check that the bolt for the tab screws in properly and NOTE THE ANGLE required. 2. Buy a longer bolt at Ace Hdwe that matches the threads of the installation bolt. Longer by maybe 2x but I don't remember for sure. 3. Place the oring/gasket on the car and face it towards the sun on a warmish day. Wait 30 mins. 4. Place the H4 bucket over the lip and then straddle and sit on it. More effective than pushing. 5. Use the longer bolt to carefully engage the first threads of the tab, then screw it in to set bucket in place. After it's set for awhile, remove the longer bolt and install the stock bolt. Step 4 might be easier with another person sitting on the bucket than you bending over to get the long bolt engaged. Suggest wifey/gf for that one. |
I gave up and installed mine without the seals.
|
This is a common problem. There's a lengthy discussion about it as regards installing my LED headlights here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1060914-audette-headlamp-fitment-difficulties-3.html#post11870205 Cheers, John |
Thanks John and everyone else for your help
I will give it another shot Last question, does anyone know if the the Smaller light bulb connector was designed to be used n G body Porsches? I dont have a wiring for it. Both my lights have the “plug nest” but no light bulb http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670885828.jpg |
Ok
I had to trim the seal to open up the lip a little. Also move around retaining clips Its not pretty but one of them is done Does anyone have an extra oem bolt for the buttom? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670890792.jpg M |
Side is not pretty
|
You can get the bolt from Pelican, or the dealer. They are not nigh $$$.
You may want to take a close look at your mounting tabs in the light bucket. Many G folks have to bend those back so as not to impinge the adjustment screws on H4s. ALSO, on many of the housing rings, you may need to notch the inside of the ring at 8 o'clock - John Audette has some great info on that. As Erick explained, many of the after market rings are smaller dimensionally, and hard to fit (understatement). I think those that are successful are maybe more comfortable adjusting metal to get them to mount, or increase the lip on the rings by carefully bending. Do NOT use the tip of a screwdriver or you will dimple the exterior from inside. Ask me how I know this... :/ From your picture, I would guess your are up against the tab on the lower left side. Also, I removed the parking lamp bulb on the bottom. For me it was in the way of the mounting screws. I made a cover and installed without. I plan on getting our a grinder and making the rings dimensionally better for fitment, but want to do it when I have time, am calm, and not frustrated. I also plan on reaching out to Erik and sourcing some 365 seals as well. My Hail Mary will be ponying up for brass rings from Erik. Brass is more forgiving and flexes better than steel. The aftermarket rings are good quality but the smaller dimensions while close, combined with harder steel make me want to smash my hand with a hammer. |
Chris,
I share your pain. Im a perfectionist and the way it mounted is not what i had hoped. After my struggles, im done with it.. it wont pop off, good enough at this point |
Brief reply... I'll need a few pics from a friend who works for Chris Powell (Chris's German Service, and tech advisor for Panorama) and hopefully we can help. So, there's multiple seals, some seem to work on better on SWB and others better on the G body cars.
I make the aftermarket H1 lights many of you "may" have seen, carried here by our host, and others as well. The trim ring is chrome over brass, and I also make a separate trim ring for the H4 and 65-67 USA/Euro lights. Between my European partner and myself we've got thousands out there since we first started selling them. A person pushing down on top of the light while another is installing the bottom screw is best. We've tried and have been successful with screwing in the bottom attachment screw a little and then pushing up on the light to hook the top, but pushing down on the ring has been more successful. Let me pull together the pics of the seals and we'll post what we've done. Note that there's a tech bulletin that shows the factory suggesting a cutout on the bucket in the 4 and 8'oclock area to allow the adjusting rings of the H1's but I don't believe that's an issue here, and you can see the cutouts on Lada03's light buckets. Seems there's more issues with G body cars, I've heard virtually no issues on earlier cars. I've got the spec differences between the OEM and my rings and the URO rings which are definitely smaller. Perhaps there's a difference in the on fender bucket dimensions on the G body cars and they are just slightly smaller? Pics to follow as we pull them together, including G body and SWB cars (sorry I'll have to find the time to run up to a local shop to put some lights on the owners personal original paint 73). Note that I don't need a 2nd person to put the lights on any of my SWB cars, and I'm using the small 356 seal, and I don't have to trim the seal. cheers, Eric |
Buttom
Our host doesnt seem to have a the screw that i need for the buttom. They sell one that works but its not the same as mine.
|
Screw
|
What I have
I have this one screw and the nut broke off on the drivers side
Thinking of jb weld the nut back. And need to find this same buttom screw http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670939723.jpg |
Clip, or you can use a rivnut. Send me your address, I have both that might work for you until or if you decide to do a full repair
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:54 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website