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![]() I have a 71 911T that I am about to perform an engine-in fix. It is a 2.2 with Zenith carbs. Intially I was reluctant to do this as I didn't want to drop the engine. After I removed the air filter cover, I found abundant room to get to everything. I have read all the posts I can find on this. Thanks to all those that contribute this vast knowledge. I just wanted to run through the process and ask a few questions I haven't been able to find to make sure I have everything ready so I don't need to pause to get something I forgot. First, my triangle of death (and I believe all 2.2's) consists of the crankcase breather cover, the oil thermostat, and the oil pressure sending unit. My car does not have a oil pressure switch. The picture above is not my car (borrowed it from #Copper) but is exactly the same. I plan to clean everything up prior to removing anything to avoid things falling in the holes. Crankcase breather cover questions: 1. There appears to be nylock nuts on there. Would you recommend replacing these with new ones? 2. Would you recommend using just a very light coating of gasket sealer on the gasket such as Permatex Red RTV Silicone? 3. I have down 8.2 ft-lbs for the nuts. Is this correct? I plan on replacing the crankcase breather hose as well Oil Thermostat questions: 1. Is there a torque spec on the nuts or just tight enough? I plan on using the green porsche O-ring. I have read some people have difficulty removing the thermostat housing. I have read about different removal techniques including the mini crowbar. Hopefully is comes out easy enough. Oil Pressure Sending Unit questions: Mine is mounted on a Reducer/Adapter Fitting. I believe it is the same one that the oil pressure switch is mounted on in later cars. There is a crush washing between the reducer/adapter fitting and the engine case. The Oil Pressure Sending Unit does not come with a trapped washer like the Oil Pressure Switch (used in later cars not mine) which appears to use the same reducer/adapter fitting as my car uses for the Sending Unit. 1. Can I reuse the Oil Pressure Sending Unit and Reducer/Adapter Fitting and just replace the washers? 2. Is the Crush washer between the Adapter fitting and the case Part #: 900-123-140-30-M17, 18x22mm? 3. Is there a washer that goes between the Adapter and the Oil Pressure Sending Unit such as that used in those cars with a Oil Pressure Switch? If so what is the size? 4. Is Teflon tape on the threads of the Adapter and Sending unit recommended? 5. Is Loctite 574 on both sides of the washer between the Adapter and case and the Sending Unit and Adapter (if there is a washer here) recommended? 6. I have torques of 26 ft-lbs for the Adapter and 14.6 ft-lbs for the Oil Sending Unit. Thanks for all the feedback in advance. I really love this community!! Jeremy Last edited by Jeremy911T; 04-01-2023 at 05:24 PM.. |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Before you go crazy, do the following:
1-Spray a bunch of solvent and clean up the area. Reach back there as best you can to wipe it down. 2-Take your camera and use the self timer to get a few pictures of the area after it is cleaned. (it may take a few tries from both sides to get a decent pictures. 3-Drive your car for about 3-60 minutes and repeat pictures. 4-Determine if you have a leak there. When I did this on my 1973, it turned out the leak was in my oil cooler not the triangle of death.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Thanks Harry. I should have metioned that I have already done that. Due to it being relatively uncrowded in my 2.2 carbed T, I am able to see back there pretty well. Definitely leaking from the crankcase cover and most likely from the oil pressure sending unit. I was going to change thermostat O-ring since I am there. I can see the oil pool behind the TOD, runs along the anterior engine tin on both sides and drips down just forward of the valve covers.
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fort Worth Tx.
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Flat sand that breather cover, you'll see that its no longer flat, then the gasket will seal.
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Great idea Ed. I did that with a valve cover once. Do you recommend a little RTV as well on that gasket?
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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Don't forget the breather hose. They get hard at the breather end and the clamp may not seal it
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Looks all too familiar, may add one more suggestion, the body of the sending unit on mine leaked at the seam. I used a bit of JB weld to seal the unit. Triangle has been dry since.
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Thanks T6andT. Do you happen to know if there is a crush washer between the adaptor fitting and the sending unit where they are joined together?
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With the cover flat it doesn't really require sealant, but I'm not a fan of RTV since it often gets applied too heavily and ends up in the oil. I prefer Permatex old fashioned brush-on non hardening gasket dressing.
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I presume that the aviation stuff that has been around for ages.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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I believe there was a crush washer between the two.
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Thanks. I think I found it. Part #: N-013-808-3-OEM. Sealing ring 10x16mm.$2 a pop for a copper cruch washer.
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| Tags |
| crankcase breather , oil sending unit , oil thermostat , tod , triangle of death |