Prestallion's 1980 911 SC ROW Build Thread

[Prestallion]

Hey everybody, fairly new to the forum I wanted to start a build thread to keep track of progress and to ask questions. I just recently acquired a 1980 Porsche 911 SC ROW. The car was purchased while a family member was stationed in Germany in the 1980's and imported to the US in the mid 1990's. The car has been in storage and has not been started in 12 years.

Not sure when, but the original owner had a sound system installed, Kenwood KRC-929 radio and Kenwood KAC 941 amplifier, and there are Blaupunkt speakers on the rear parcel shelf that I assume were added aftermarket as well. They also had an aftermarket AC system and alarm system installed so the wiring under the dash was a complete mess/hack job. I'm not sure what all was installed/replaced when imported to make the car legal in the US, but I do know that the headlights were changed to sugar scoops and a Neutronics Lamda Computer was installed. I'll be changing the headlights to H4s in the future, but have other priorities like getting the thing started.

So far I have completely removed the aftermarket AC system, alarm system, and sound system to clean up the wiring under the dash. In doing so, I found that the accessory power wire was burned/melted. I have already reached out to Timmy2 for his help getting the ignition switch harness rebuilt. I have also drained and removed the fuel tank.

[Prestallion]

While I wait for the ignition harness to be rebuilt, I decided to start digging around the engine bay to see what else was changed/hacked when importing. This led to me finding the Neutronics box and more wiring that had been hacked into, as well as an O2 sensor and catalytic converter. I would like to remove the cat and O2 sensor as well as the Neutronics box and wiring if possible. Does anybody have any resources/images for removing this stuff and what is needed to convert it back to ROW? I have done some searching, and will continue searching, but was wondering if anybody had any experience with this that they can share.

[boyt911sc]

Was the car “federalized” to meet the standard emission test? Take a picture of the WUR and its surrounding area (intake runner 1-2-3). This would be the left side of the motor near the fuel filter is located and if a frequency valve was added. What is the Bosch ID number on the WUR? Keep us posted.

Tony

[Mike Andrew]

Welcome to the madness.
Like the color and not sure I have ever seen an SC in that color. Is it factory or a repaint?
Good luck on the wiring issues. Not my area of expertise but I was able to clean up the mess under my dash from a hack job of an antenna replacement by P.O. or his "mechanic".

[Prestallion]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Was the car “federalized” to meet the standard emission test? Take a picture of the WUR and its surrounding area (intake runner 1-2-3). This would be the left side of the motor near the fuel filter is located and if a frequency valve was added. What is the Bosch ID number on the WUR? Keep us posted.

Tony, I believe it was federalized but I’m not 100% sure. I’ll attach some photos below, let me know if I can provide a different angle. Bosch ID looks like 980 or 086, not sure what the correct orientation is. And it looks like there is a frequency valve.

Originally Posted by Mike Andrew

Welcome to the madness.
Like the color and not sure I have ever seen an SC in that color. Is it factory or a repaint?
Good luck on the wiring issues. Not my area of expertise but I was able to clean up the mess under my dash from a hack job of an antenna replacement by P.O. or his "mechanic".

Mike, I don’t think it’s a repaint. The tag on the inside of the drivers door shows 106-8-2, 106 being the paint code for Talbot Yellow. I gotta give credit to Timmy2 for helping me figure out the harness, he’s very helpful.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Prestallion

Tony, I believe it was federalized but I’m not 100% sure. I’ll attach some photos below, let me know if I can provide a different angle. Bosch ID looks like 980 or 086, not sure what the correct orientation is. And it looks like there is a frequency valve.


Mike, I don’t think it’s a repaint. The tag on the inside of the drivers door shows 106-8-2, 106 being the paint code for Talbot Yellow. I gotta give credit to Timmy2 for helping me figure out the harness, he’s very helpful.

980 or 680 marking on top of the WUR is the cast number. On top of the WUR where you found the 980 marking is the Bosch ID # (0 438 140 ???). The last 3 digits (???) will identify the WUR. You could see from the above pictures the electrical plug to the WUR, right behind it is a rubber hose with a clamp. The stamped numbers are right behind the rubber hose. Clean that area and you will find the ID numbers. Keep us posted.

Tony

[timmy2]

Love the color.
Tony should be able to help you to get rid of all that clunky junk on your fuel system and put your car back to how it was designed.

[SkiVT]

My 1983 ROW had very similar federalization plumbing done. In my case, the wur and FD were also changed from the ROW parts to the US parts. I ended up pulling all that plumbing and replacing the WUR and FD with ROW parts. As Tony says, post both the WUR and FD part numbers.


Pretty good discussion in the thread below with pictures of the options to get rid of a catalytic converter. There are many other threads discussing all the options. The O2 sensor bung can still be useful for an AFR gauge if you want to monitor AFR. My car has the SSI headers with 2-in-1 out exhaust with an AFR gauge.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/727390-3-0-ssi-upgrade-questions.html

[Prestallion]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

980 or 680 marking on top of the WUR is the cast number. On top of the WUR where you found the 980 marking is the Bosch ID # (0 438 140 ???). The last 3 digits (???) will identify the WUR. You could see from the above pictures the electrical plug to the WUR, right behind it is a rubber hose with a clamp. The stamped numbers are right behind the rubber hose. Clean that area and you will find the ID numbers. Keep us posted.

Oops! There was so much dust/dirt on the WUR I didn’t even see the other numbers, brushed it off and they are as follows (pictures included)

WUR: 0 438140 089
FD: 0 438 100 031 (861289 929)

[group911@aol.co]

Looks like a 930/10 engine. You'll love it.
The local dealer had a few talbot yellow cars on the lot that they special ordered in the early 80's. Great color.
It also looks like it has a Carrera/ Weissach tail. Nice

[Prestallion]

Originally Posted by group911@aol.co

Looks like a 930/10 engine. You'll love it.
The local dealer had a few talbot yellow cars on the lot that they special ordered in the early 80's. Great color.
It also looks like it has a Carrera/ Weissach tail. Nice

It does have a tail. I’d take a better photo of the car but it’s currently on stands and partially taken apart.

Is talbot yellow a hard color to come across?

As far as engine/transmission numbers:
Engine: 6302557 930/09
Transmission: 915/62 730 2830

[SkiVT]

Can you also confirm the path of the purple vacuum line on the side of the WUR goes up through a thermo valve to the decel valve as pictured here?

[boyt911sc]

You got the ROW WUR & FD in your engine already. If you like to get it back to ROW CIS spec., the conversion is very easy and simple. Keep us posted.

Tony

[group911@aol.co]

I think a special order for that year??


Motor specs;
8.6:1 compression
188HP @ 5500
188 ftlb @ 4200

Originally Posted by Prestallion

It does have a tail. I’d take a better photo of the car but it’s currently on stands and partially taken apart.

Is talbot yellow a hard color to come across?

As far as engine/transmission numbers:
Engine: 6302557 930/09
Transmission: 915/62 730 2830

[SkiVT]

I think it was a single year engine before the 930/10 took over.

Simon's Porsche 911 SC Site

[group911@aol.co]

Looks like a standard color in 80
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1980-porsche-911sc-911-turbo-color-500518095

[Prestallion]

Originally Posted by SkiVT

Can you also confirm the path of the purple vacuum line on the side of the WUR goes up through a thermo valve to the decel valve as pictured here?

If this is the correct vacuum line then it looks like it has been plugged with a golf tee...

[SkiVT]

That is the correct line. Vacuum normally controls enrichment in concert with your 089 WUR. The frequency valve like thing In theory is doing that now. If you decide to get rid of that, you will need to have the correct vacuum line routing back to the throttle body. Hopefully you have a thermo valve still up by the Decel valve. Should be mounted by the heater blower fan.

[SkiVT]

Something like this: I took out the fan and backdated my heat.

[SkiVT]

My plumbing when I bought the car before correcting. You seem to have more added fuel line connections. For me, the original path and connections were still there so no new fuel lines/connections were needed. Tony calibrated my corrected WUR and FD. It all works great now.