Clutch Replacement

[HarryD]

A few months ago, my car had a judder when I started. Based on what my mechanic and I know, we decided I had a worn clutch and would need to replace it.

He removed the engine and transmission from the car. During removal, he discovered that one of the engine to transmission studs had broken off and the others were loose. We inspected the clutch plate which appeared to have 30-40% life left. We think the judder may have been due to the loose connections and broken stud.

Since it was already disassembled, we decided to proceed to reface the flywheel and replace the clutch.

While in there, as requested, he adjusted my valves, flushed my brakes. We will replace the shifter rod seal, replace the seals in the triangle of death, improve the seal for the breather between the engine and the oil tank and inspect/rebuild/replace my CV Joints.

I was relieved to find out the amount of unforeseen problems are minimal.

Hopefully this will have be all I need to be ready for the 2025 Autocross/HPDE Season.

[GH85Carrera]

It is always nice to KNOW all those things are fresh and ready for spring. I am getting close to needing a new clutch. I am not looking forward to the "while yer in there" projects that go with a clutch replacement. I am at 198,000 miles, and I may wait until 200K just because it is a nicer round number.

[rowingone]

You should replace the "rear main" or flywheel seal while you are in there, I assume your mechanic will do that and it was just not mentioned.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by rowingone

You should replace the "rear main" or flywheel seal while you are in there, I assume your mechanic will do that and it was just not mentioned.

Yes. It is on the list. My guy is a retired Aircooled Porsche/VW trained mechanic. He’s got me covered.

[fanaudical]

Harry - Are you repairing the engine-to-transmission studs? Simple remove/replace? Any kind of threaded insert in those areas? I know the webbing is thin there already; not sure there's lots of meat for an insert...

I'm asking because I suspect one of mine is loose...

[HarryD]

We are just replacing the broken one. The others are fine.

[HarryD]

Job is done!

Clutch replaced.

A variety of seals were replaced.

Valves were adjusted.

One of my CV joints was dry and the complete half shaft replaced with a rebuilt unit.

Brake fluid was flushed.

All I have left is to replace my front brake pads as they are at 40-50%.

Yay!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Job is done!

Clutch replaced.

A variety of seals were replaced.

Valves were adjusted.

One of my CV joints was dry and the complete half shaft replaced with a rebuilt unit.

Brake fluid was flushed.

All I have left is to replace my front brake pads as they are at 40-50%.

Yay!

Well I thought job was done but ….

When we went to start the car the alternator light was bright and upon starting, the light glowed dimly and we saw only 12 volts.

We decided the 20+ year old alternator had failed and we ordered a new one. We installed it but it did not solve the problem.

We were finally able to get the old alternator tested. It was found to be 100%. The guy at the shop told us that with the symptoms we were seeing, it is usually a bad electrical connection.

We examined the wires to the alternator and decided they should be cleaned with emery cloth. We then considered the fact the connections to the starter motor were removed and reinstalled. We pulled the connections and noted the wires looked dirty. We cleaned them with emery cloth as well.

Reassembled and started car. 14 volts!

Job is now done.

Anyone need an alternator or 1/2 axle?