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Are These Chain Tensioners Useless?

Someone sent me an engine to put together... he bought it as supposedly complete but fully disassembled....

The chain tensioners are missing the little cap.. first pic shows the ones I received...
Second pic is a spare tensioner I have that shows the cap.

Am I looking to buy new tensioners because of this?



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Old 07-15-2025, 05:07 AM
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Mike, Just to make it safe, replace the two, expensive but it’s your labor if you need to replace after the build.
Bruce
Old 07-15-2025, 04:01 PM
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there is a guy in France who posted this video how to rebuild them and replace the nipple with bleeder screw.I am about to do some of them (i have like 6 pieces) so i will see ,when i get to it...how it works.Seams doable

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtutSc_sJUo

Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.
Old 07-15-2025, 11:33 PM
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Wow. I just watched the video and it looks like an ingenious solution. Luckily my tensioners are fine, but I like his idea.
Old 07-16-2025, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proporsche View Post
there is a guy in France who posted this video how to rebuild them and replace the nipple with bleeder screw.I am about to do some of them (i have like 6 pieces) so i will see ,when i get to it...how it works.Seams doable

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtutSc_sJUo

Ivan
interesting... so my tensioners are missing the small cap, ball and spring.. not sure why someone pulled them apart...

I think I will have to recommend my client buy 2 new tensioners to be safe.
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Old 07-16-2025, 02:32 PM
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When you get the new ones, you can install a stainless wire accross the top to keep the bleed nipple in place, just in case, as they pop out pretty easily. I also use the Jerry Woods mod and prefill the tensioner with a syringe.

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1978 Targa - 1980 3.0; Carrera intake; Megasquirt 2; EDIS ignition; 22/28 mm torsion bars and late Carrera sway bars; Carrera front brakes. Targa top rebuild in 2017. Suspension rebuild in 2019. Needs new paint and interior carpets.

Last edited by Marwil; 07-17-2025 at 06:49 AM..
Old 07-17-2025, 06:46 AM
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Marwil..interesting, on your pic the c clip on top of the pin is removed --the reason? To fill it up..?
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.
Old 07-17-2025, 11:58 AM
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I took 3 of mine apart today (my top nipples are ok) .Remove the bottom c clip and removed the plug and the pin .Filled with oil a put together...i will test it when i get a chance .....
Also i took one apart from the top cleaned filled with oil ..put together ...after i took one good one i have and test it compare the others, it did same resistance when compressed....
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.
Old 07-18-2025, 09:29 AM
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One other part that is important for these to work correctly. The top of the piston has to be able to bleed out air. You will notice that the cap is pressed into the piston. The cap can be pressed out. It has threads for air to escape and a small vent at the top (circled in red).



If the threads have filled with gunk over time there will be no way for the air to blead out the top and the tensioner and it will be soft. You can knock the cap out from the inside, clean the threads and press it back into the piston.
john
Old 07-18-2025, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by targa72e View Post
One other part that is important for these to work correctly. The top of the piston has to be able to bleed out air. You will notice that the cap is pressed into the piston. The cap can be pressed out. It has threads for air to escape and a small vent at the top (circled in red).



If the threads have filled with gunk over time there will be no way for the air to blead out the top and the tensioner and it will be soft. You can knock the cap out from the inside, clean the threads and press it back into the piston.
john
Good point, i will check manana on it..i did hear the air coming out through..
thanx
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.
Old 07-18-2025, 01:31 PM
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ok how do you remove the nipple part and what does this one plate do?

maybe a good solution for Mike..for me,i just wonder..

thanx

Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.
Old 07-18-2025, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proporsche View Post
ok how do you remove the nipple part and what does this one plate do?

maybe a good solution for Mike..for me,i just wonder..

thanx

Ivan
You just pop that stamped POS cage out, its not held in there very well (Which is what usually causes the issue to begin with) You will see that those metal fingers barely grip the ID of that port in some cases. All is does is contain the check valve guts which is a small ball and a spring. It's often when that retaining cage dislodges and out comes the spring and ball and the tensioner partially collapses from dumping out the oil pressure its being fed. The methods discussed are all intended to keep it all together, be it some safety wire bridged across the top like a belt, or that guy in your video using a bleeder nipple, or the discs I referenced. In the case of these, you remove the ****ty failure prone retaining cage, but keep the spring and ball in place, and these discs get driven into the recess with a friction fit (can also peen the housing too if you like) and it serves as a better retaining means for the guts of that check valve.
Old 07-18-2025, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garibaldi View Post
You just pop that stamped POS cage out, its not held in there very well (Which is what usually causes the issue to begin with) You will see that those metal fingers barely grip the ID of that port in some cases. All is does is contain the check valve guts which is a small ball and a spring. It's often when that retaining cage dislodges and out comes the spring and ball and the tensioner partially collapses from dumping out the oil pressure its being fed. The methods discussed are all intended to keep it all together, be it some safety wire bridged across the top like a belt, or that guy in your video using a bleeder nipple, or the discs I referenced. In the case of these, you remove the ****ty failure prone retaining cage, but keep the spring and ball in place, and these discs get driven into the recess with a friction fit (can also peen the housing too if you like) and it serves as a better retaining means for the guts of that check valve.
Cool thanx a lot..to be quiet honest if i have seen collapsed chain tensioner, it had never missing the retainer and the ball with spring.For some reason it just gave up.It happened to me too.In a long drive through Europe (about 1300 km ) i heard the chain noise collapsed -kept it on higher rpm until i got back home to France.Took it out , all in place but totally soft .Actually never opened it since i had in my stash 2 new once...
thanx for the info
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein.

Last edited by proporsche; 07-20-2025 at 01:43 PM..
Old 07-18-2025, 10:14 PM
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Sorry, been involved with my garage build. Due to the Jerry Woods mod the pin can't be inserted. The mod involves inserting a small section of pipe into the piston cylinder to limit the compression of the piston in case of tensioner failure. The pipe/bushing prevents the piston from compressing fully and therefor prevents insertion of the pin.

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1978 Targa - 1980 3.0; Carrera intake; Megasquirt 2; EDIS ignition; 22/28 mm torsion bars and late Carrera sway bars; Carrera front brakes. Targa top rebuild in 2017. Suspension rebuild in 2019. Needs new paint and interior carpets.
Old 07-20-2025, 08:16 PM
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